Flowmaster install questions

[Harry P]

Sorry if this has been covered... did a quick search and didn't find the answers I'm looking for.

Just received Flowmaster System 17227 from Jegs today (Force II Delta 50 with pipes, clamps). Has anyone installed this kit themselves without use of a lift? I was planning on backing onto rhino ramps or jacking, but the instructions suggest I may have to remove rr shock and/or sway bar to get the tailpipe in. Also may have to cut inlet pipe 4" because the cat is too far rear for the kit (they supply an adapter). What has been your experience with either of these tasks? I'm pretty capable with tools, but I wonder if it's worth it to give to my mechanic since I don't have access to a lift.

To demo the old pipe, I was planning on cutting the existing flange bolts and replacing them along with a new gasket... good idea?

Thanks in advance for any input.

Harry

 

[TheRookie]

Cutting the bolts actualy isnt a good idea. Reason is it isnt going to work. I cant really explain it but if you just cut the bolts helf the bolt will stay in the cat flange. As to doing it without a lift? give it a shot. Worst thing that can happen is you have to drive it to a muffler shop with no exhaust on it. Just keep the windows down. You dont learn to do things unless you try to do them

 

[have2goski]

i replaced my muffler once awhile back. I had to take that shock off its mounts to wiggle the pipe back in there. had the a&& end of it way up in the air too on jacks if i remember correctly.

you should be able to do it though. of course a professional lift would make it easier and probably less painful but who has one of those in their home garage arsenol?

just make sure when you are lifting it that you are safe about it and it is nice and stable before you climb under there.

and like therookie said, give it a shot, if you can't get it take to a shop to finish it up.

 

[huskyfan23]

I didn't even use jack stands when I did my kit. I just got under there, unbolted from the cat, and cut the stock pipes into a couple pieces. I didn't have to remove anything like shocks or sway bar.

 

[93exploder]

I would say take it down to a muffler shop and have them weld everything in. will turn out alot better that way.

 

[Harry P]

Thanks for the input, guys... I guess I won't cut the cat flange studs. That may be a b$tch trying to get them off... since thats the first thing to do, I'll try that first, if they don't turn, I'll pass it to my mechanic.

huskyfan23, was your kit the FM 17227? Did you have to shorten the inlet pipe? Mine is also a 94 XLT. Just curious

Thanks again.

 

[DeRocha]

I installed the same kit a few months back. It wasn't that bad. I just put the rear end on jack stands and removed the rear tire. The Spring Bolts were my biggest fear since I didn't now what to do with them. They were severely rusted and didn't look like they would move. I ended up cutting them off and they fell right out (just don't cut into the flange). You should get a new exhaust flange gasket @ the auto store along with new spring bolts. I used a cut off wheel on my grinder to slice through the old pipes. I then loosely connected the front pipe to the muffler. I supported the muffler on a floor jack and moved it into position and connected the CAT flange bolts. I then moved the rear pipe into position and had to cut the Front inlet pipe per instructions...It was obvious since the muffler sat too far towards the rear of the X and the hanger positons didn't line up. The Instructions were very clear and you just cut off exactly what it says..After all pipes have been connected ensure they are seated all the way before tightening everything up...

 

[Harry P]

I then moved the rear pipe into position and had to cut the pipe...It was obvious since the muffler sat too far towards the rear of the X and the hanger positons didn't line up. The Instructions were very clear and you just cut off exactly what it says...

Thanks, John. I'm sure it will be obvious when I get under there to do it, but I want to understand something... the directions say to trim the inlet pipe, not the tailpipe. I am unclear which pipe you found needed trimming based on the support clamp location.

Thanks again.

 

[DeRocha]

Sorry about the confusion. I will edit my original post. The short pipe which connects the muffler to the CAT is the one which may need to be trimmed. If it is too long it pushes the whole muffler too far back. The tailpipe is not cut.

 

[huskyfan23]

I didn't have to trim anything. I don't see how the muffler being a little farther back is anything bad anyways.

 

[DeRocha]

If the muffler is too far back then the stock hanger cannot be used.

 

[Harry P]

Thanks again for responding, all. You answered all my questions. (Did anyone ever mention this site is great?)

I'll follow up and let you know how it went.

Harry

 

[Joe Zuhlsdorf]

I bought the Flowmaster kit about two months ago and put it on without a lift, jack or taking a shock out.

 

[Harry P]

Update: Installed this kit last weekend. Mine is a '94 XLT 4x4 4-door assembled in May 1994. I had a few issues to deal with, here are the cliff notes.

Removal: I used a jack just to make it easier to access. The bolts at the flanged connection between the connecter pipe (to the muffler) and the rear cat were rusted on so bad, they might as well have been welded on. Using a reciprocating saw, I cut the bolts between the flanges, as close to the cat flange as I could w/o damaging the flange. Be careful when you finish each cut: because of the springs, the bolt heads shoot off at a pretty good muzzle velocity. Cut out the remainder of the exhaust by (1) cutting the tailpipe just rear of the muffler & (2) cutting the hanger at the rear of the tailpipe.

Going back to the bolts, they are a special in that they utilize a spring to secure the connector pipe. Basically, they are large diameter that neck down at the thread to a smaller diameter, where only the smaller diameter goes through the cat flange. Since I cut the bolts between the flanges, what I had left was a large diameter portion up to the rear face of the cat flange, connected to the cat flange by the smaller diameter threaded section (Buy the bolts before removing your exhaust and look at them, it will make more sense). I center punched and pilot drilled them, and then drilled forward with a drill bit of the same diameter of the threaded portion. They dropped out when the bit advanced into the threaded section.

Installation: Installed a new gasket at the cat flange. I did need to cut the connector pipe down 4â€￾ as implied in the Flowmaster instructions. I also needed to remove the bottom connection bolt of the right rear shock absorber… no big deal. The system fit up nicely even though the adaptor piece did not want to go into the muffler without a little grinding of the inside of the muffler outlet tube and hammering the pieces together on the bench using a wood block… very tight connection. Since this is my beater, I just used clamps. If you want a leak-free system, welding is the way to go.

Very pleased with the finished product, there is no reason to believe that you can’t do this yourself if you have a few tools and the basic skills to use them.