Ford Explorer Inertia Switch

[Cabius]

1994 Ford Explorer XLT No Start, Not the Fuel Pump

Edit: So now that I know it is not the Fuel Pump I am looking for some help. Here is some info if you don't want to scroll through the thread.

A few weeks back I started having an issue where my car would die when it was in park or just stopping at a stop sign. Unless I put my foot on the gas lightly it would not stay running. I figured it was the fuel filter because I know clogged fuel filters can cause this issue. I wasn't able to get a new filter in time but a couple weeks after it started doing that my car finally just quit while I was on my way to work, engine stopped running and I could not get it to start. So now I figure it must be my fuel pump because I put a new filter on and it still wont start. It turns over when I turn the key.

I have Fuel Pressure and spark (Brand new plugs).

http://vid121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/scottypma/VIDEO0009_zpsei9kqap5.mp4

The gas shoots clear over the edge of the vehicle into the grass. lol

I can hear the Fuel Pump engage. I know it is the fuel pump because whe nI pull the relay it no longer happens.
http://vid121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/scottypma/VIDEO0011_zpsajly6cey.mp4

I also hear this strange sound under my hood when I turn my key to the on position. This sound also stops if I pull out the relay.

http://vid121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/scottypma/VIDEO0012_zpsvmhjkgfj.mp4

Here is what my trouble codes where before I reset them. KOEO

116-Out of range Engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT)
566-3rd/4th gear solenoid (ATA)
629-Torque converter lock up clutch solenoid (LUS)
543-Fuel pump (FP) circuit failure

After the first set of codes:

332-EGR valve not opening

Here are my codes after resetting.

116-Out of range Engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT)
114-Out of range voltage air change temperature sensor (ACT)
566-3rd/4th gear solenoid (ATA)
629-Torque converter lock up clutch solenoid (LUS)

After first sequence:

111-all systems OK.

Got those codes from here http://www.fordf150.net/howto/eecivcodes.php.

Am I getting all systems ok because the car needs to run for a while for it to figure those out again or is the problem truly gone?

 

[Wolfie_85]

Lift up the carpet under the dash on the passener side and it should be right there. What issues are you having beyond finding the inertia switch?

 

[Cabius]

I'll start from the beginning. A few weeks back I started having an issue where my car would die when it was in park or just stopping at a stop sign. Unless I put my foot on the gas lightly it would not stay running. I figured it was the fuel filter because I know clogged fuel filters can cause this issue. I wasn't able to get a new filter in time but a couple weeks after it started doing that my car finally just quit while I was on my way to work, engine stopped running and I could not get it to start. So now I figure it must be my fuel pump because I put a new filter on and it still wont start. It turns over when I turn the key. I was told there is a little valve under the hood that looks like a tire valve, I located that and was told if I press that down and fuel shoots out it is likely not my fuel pump. Any ideas on what to try next?

That picture is with the carpet lifted. Is it possible that the previous owner bypassed the inertia switch?

Here is a video of me pressing that valve down.

http://vid121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/scottypma/VIDEO0009_zpsei9kqap5.mp4

 

[Wolfie_85]

It would be right up under the dash, but still under the carpet on the passenger side. If you find it, be sure it is properly connected and that the red button is pushed in. It is possible it was bypassed, but since it's a safety feature, and they don't often fail, I see no reason for messing with it.

It might be your fuel pump relay. Do you hear a whine when you turn your key without starting or cranking? You can test this by swapping the AC relay with the fuel pump relay and trying to start it. If this works, replace the relay. The relay center is under the hood on the passenger side. This may or may not be it, since it looked like you had some fuel pressure. Worth a shot and cheap, at $10-13 at the parts store.

I would see how your spark plug wires are, if they are properly seated and what condition the insulation is in. Check vacuum lines, too. I have had cars with bad ignition control modules cause a no start condition like this, too. Maybe fuel injectors? But I would check the easy and cheap stuff first. Even if it seems like a long shot. Better than going expensive first, right?

 

[Wolfie_85]

Oh! And in those pics, you are looking too far to the right. Look a bit more toward the center.

 

[Cabius]

Ok, I'll take another look. Thanks for the help!

 

[Cabius]

It would be right up under the dash, but still under the carpet on the passenger side. If you find it, be sure it is properly connected and that the red button is pushed in. It is possible it was bypassed, but since it's a safety feature, and they don't often fail, I see no reason for messing with it.

It might be your fuel pump relay. Do you hear a whine when you turn your key without starting or cranking? You can test this by swapping the AC relay with the fuel pump relay and trying to start it. If this works, replace the relay. The relay center is under the hood on the passenger side. This may or may not be it, since it looked like you had some fuel pressure. Worth a shot and cheap, at $10-13 at the parts store.

I would see how your spark plug wires are, if they are properly seated and what condition the insulation is in. Check vacuum lines, too. I have had cars with bad ignition control modules cause a no start condition like this, too. Maybe fuel injectors? But I would check the easy and cheap stuff first. Even if it seems like a long shot. Better than going expensive first, right?

Indeed it is better than going expensive. The AC was taken out by the previous owner so that relay is gone but I found some extra relays in the glove box, plugged one in and nothing changed. I suppose I should check to make sure I am getting spark huh?

 

[Cabius]

So all of my spark plug wires look fine, they almost look brand new in fact. Everything seems to be seated correctly. I set my phone up on my back driver tire to listen for the fuel pump, is this the noise I am looking for? If so that means the fuel pump is fine. Could it be the Idle Control Valve?

http://vid121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/scottypma/VIDEO0011_zpsajly6cey.mp4

 

[Wolfie_85]

I think that's the right noise. Hard to tell on a video, but I'm pretty sure you do indeed have the right noise. Do you have spark? How are your injectors? Check vacuum lines for leaks and gas?

 

[Cabius]

I do have spark and I can smell and feel fuel on the spark plugs. I just put in New ones. How do I go about checking the vacuum lines?

 

[Wolfie_85]

Look for any that came loose, or any breaks or cracks. My dad had an Explorer in which one of the lines would pop off the tree (by the firewall, driver's side), and cause it to stall or run like crap.

 

[murkinstock]

Have you checked to see if it might be throwing trouble codes?

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=255962

It's possible it could be throwing one even if the CEL isn't on.

If you have spark, fuel and, air and it's still not starting I'm thinking maybe it's the crankshaft position sensor.
Or maybe the coil itself. This may help.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1991657&postcount=16

EDIT: Now that I think about it, my old fuel pump had an issue and my truck would take a minimum of 15-20 tries to start but once it started it would run fine.
I then figured out I could get it to start first try using starting fluid so I suggest you try that.
I replaced my fuel pump and now it starts first try no problem. Your fuel pump also is really loud so it's possible that's still the problem. (My old one was really loud, and I can barely hear my new one) With how old they are I would recommend doing the fuel pump and sending unit assembly together, if you take that route.

Just my two cents.

 

[Wolfie_85]

Coil would have been my next guess, too. If none of the other items help...
I hope you're getting it figured out, though.

 

[Cabius]

Well I can barely hear the fuel pump with my own ear, I figured it was just that loud because I had the phone recording right next to it.

 

[Cabius]

Just want to post my KOEO codes if it will help.

116-Out of range Engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT)
566-3rd/4th gear solenoid (ATA)
629-Torque converter lock up clutch solenoid (LUS)
543-Fuel pump (FP) circuit failure

The next one was after the first sequence of codes popped up twice.

332-EGR valve not opening

If this place is right, that is where I got the codes from.

http://www.fordf150.net/howto/eecivcodes.php

I have heard the fuel pump circuit failure code is there because when I changed the fuel filter I pulled the relay and turned the car over to be sure there was no pressure in the system. Should I clear the codes and try it again?

 

[Maniak]

Since you have the TCC and the 3/4 on the list, make sure the wireharness that run down to the transmission didn't fall ito the exhaust.

It is somewhat common for that small harness to not be in it's bracket anymore and have it end up against the exhaust on the driver's side (near the back of the motor)

Once that happens wires melt and you will get the 3/4 and tcc solenoid codes. On top of that, the ECM is powering AND grounding the lines that go down there so if it did get against the exhaust you will really upset the ECM and possibly blow the ECM fuse.

~Mark

 

[Cabius]

Would you have a picture of what I should look for? I am not seeing any wires touching the exhaust.

 

[Cabius]

I am getting a strange noise I don't remember ever hearing before from under the hood when I turn the key. I recorded the sound with my phone again. Who knows maybe it has always made that sound and I just couldn't hear it because I would normally start the engine.

http://vid121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/scottypma/VIDEO0012_zpsvmhjkgfj.mp4

 

[Cabius]

Some guy I work with thinks it's the starter solenoid. Is that a possibility?

 

[Maniak]

I don't have a picture of it, but there is small-ish wire harness that "should" be going do the back/driver side of the motor and it runs down to the transmission. When it gets free it can end up in the exhaust manifold and melt. It is the only harness that heads down that way on that side of the engine.

Now, for that sound.. did you turn the key to the start position or to get that or to the run position? Unless you turned the key to the start position that isn't the solenoid or starter, plus if those were having issues, the motor would spin when you turn the key to the start position.

~Mark