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Ford Explorer Inertia Switch

Just to the start position. My car turns over so I don't think it is a starter issue especially since there is no clicking. And mine looks like it has two harnesses that go down that way, neither of which are touching the exhaust.
 



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Have I stumped everyone? :(

I want to fix it but I want to be absolutely sure what the problem is before I buy a new part.
 






Ok an update, when I pull the fuel pump relay out and turn on the key this noise from under the hood is no longer heard.

http://vid121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/scottypma/VIDEO0012_zpsvmhjkgfj.mp4

Which would imply that what ever is making that noise is on the same circuit as the pump. I have also confirmed that this noise is the fuel pump by taking out the relay and turning on the key.

http://s121.photobucket.com/user/scottypma/media/VIDEO0011_zpsajly6cey.mp4.html?sort=3&o=1

I have also taken a couple of pictures, is this thing supposed to be plugged in somewhere?

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/scottypma/IMAG0050_zps3b2797dc.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o212/scottypma/IMAG0049_zps59cf2bf2.jpg

It is on the drivers side furthest to the right if you are looking at the car from the front end.

I reset the codes and get this now.

116-Out of range Engine coolant temperature sensor (ECT)
114-Out of range voltage air change temperature sensor (ACT)
566-3rd/4th gear solenoid (ATA)
629-Torque converter lock up clutch solenoid (LUS)

After first sequence:

111-all systems OK.
 






I do have spark and I can smell and feel fuel on the spark plugs. I just put in New ones. How do I go about checking the vacuum lines?

How do you know you have spark. What did you do to determin that? If there was spark there would not be fuel smell on the spark plugs..

What did it do before it stopped starting. You said the engine would die while idling. Did it ever misfire have hesitant idling or hesitant acceleration
 






I did a standard spark plug test, this...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZceAZgZBn9E

Beautiful blue spark. As far as I could tell it wasn't misfiring. The only time I had hesitant acceleration was if the engine was cold. But if the engine had been running for a bit the next time I started it up it would accelerate immediately when I hit the gas.

Can't really hear the engine very good but this was a video I recorded while it was having the problem.
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10152734421747853&l=4322247315394390972
 






Seems you have the 2 things you need spark and fuel. Maybe its the timing might need a new camshaft sensor.
 












Well that big hole didn't just happen all sudden. You've had a long running vacuum leak but that's not keeping the engine from starting.
 






A vacuum leak won't stop the engine from starting?
 






What I would do at this point is do the things you know for a fact are a problem. I would go to a junkyard and get an intake tube. Go to Autozone or some auto store and get a new ECT sensor and new ACT sensor.


That is for the cruise control that should have a vacuum hose on it and connected to the vacuum tree.
Also right next to the vacuum tree would be your ACT sensor, and the ECT sensor is located under the throttle body attached by the water pump. It is the one with 2 wires coming out of it.

As for the transmission stuff. I would follow what Maniak said earlier.

Good luck and report back with any findings and info. :)
 






A vacuum leak won't stop the engine from starting?

The hole in the intake tube along with your cruise control vacuum leak and those two sensors being out of whack I think could easily cause your engine not to start.
 






Well tape it up and see if your engine starts. I bet it don't

Your truck obviously been running for a while when that hole was beginning to wear or split. That hole didn't just all sudden appear that big and made your engine stop. That vacuum leak did make your engine stall at times when you say you had to keep throttling to keep the motor running. You have another problem that's keeping your engine from firing.
 






What I would do at this point is do the things you know for a fact are a problem. I would go to a junkyard and get an intake tube. Go to Autozone or some auto store and get a new ECT sensor and new ACT sensor.



That is for the cruise control that should have a vacuum hose on it and connected to the vacuum tree.
Also right next to the vacuum tree would be your ACT sensor, and the ECT sensor is located under the throttle body attached by the water pump. It is the one with 2 wires coming out of it.

As for the transmission stuff. I would follow what Maniak said earlier.

Good luck and report back with any findings and info. :)

It all makes so much sense now. My cruise control stopped working as soon as I started experiencing problems. So somewhere a long the way a tube fell off. I will look into all of these. are those sensors pretty pricey?

Edit: Is this what I am looking for?

ECT:

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...8OB758mbgYHA3RS9-p5xMstb7xeQyFW6mgRoCAFHw_wcB

ACT:
http://www.#########.com/v5kcbmd-ma...a&fp=pp&utm_term=Mazda+Air+Temperature+Sensor

Also already checked for wires touching my exhaust, I followed the exhaust all the way underneath and there is nothing.
 






It all makes so much sense now. My cruise control stopped working as soon as I started experiencing problems. So somewhere a long the way a tube fell off. I will look into all of these. are those sensors pretty pricey?

I don't think you lost all those sensor at once.. Also, the 3/4 and the TCC solenoids are "in" the transmission valve body. Even if the sensors are out of range, it should still start, although you may need to hold the throttle open some.

My guess is you have a wiring issue. Something is shorting to ground, or between sensors.

I'd say, look for that harness that runs to the transmission, and once you find it, follow it away from the transmission and keep following it. I'm guessing that somewhere the ECT and ACT sensors are on the same harness that the 3/4 and TCC solenoids are in.

For the Vacuum leak near the MAF, just put a bunch of tape over it. For the cruise control hose, look at the upper intake (plenum). If any of the Vacuum ports are open, just cap them off with a piece of hose and a bolt for now.

Now, that the vacuum leaks are fixed (for now), and assuming it still won't start, Be 100% sure you really have enough fuel pressure. There should be 32psi at that schrader valve. A Fuel pressure testing is $35 or less. You can pick it up at Harbor freight tools for a cheap one, and even amazon carries them.

BTW, when I was having a wiring issue, I was blowing a big fuse under the hood. Before I blew the fuse, it would just stall randomly, (after hitting a bump). When that big fuse blew, it wouldn't start anymore.

~Mark
 






Ok Maniak, ill make sure to check it out. I just hooked up the tube to the cruise control, it was just hanging there unattached.
 


















IS this what I am looking for?

http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-injection-pump-tester-92699.html

So far all I am finding are Air CHARGED Temp sensors. Are they the same thing as the Air CHANGE Temp sensors?

Yes, that is the fuel pressure tester I use for my FI vehicles.

And yes, air charge(d) temp sensor is correct for the one in the upper plenum.

I cant see the photobucket pics well enought on the phone.. Ill look when i get back from scrounging in the junk yard.

~Mark
 






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