Found a good deal on an 01 Ranger... Cam tensioner issues......

[mjstef]

Well i drove to the next population center east of me 475 miles round trip the other day to pick this up. Rust free, (no salt in Montana) 2001 XLT 4x4 V6 Automatic, 105,654 miles. It was advertised as needing an engine. When i got there and looked at it there was a small hole in the valve cover over the timing chain. Looks as if the cam follower or tensioner let loose. I drove it on the trailer (had no other choice when the come-a-long broke)and it rand ok with a little chain noise that i expected but no vibration or miss. Just in case, i picked up a used engine with 66,000 from a rollover for $400. Figured i could always sell it again at that price. Anyways, i'm thinking i may be able to just fix the tensioner and everything else in the timing on the front and roll until something else lets go. (gotta pull the engine to do the back guides so i will forget that for now.) Chime in on opinions of the value as is and i'll post the price later.

 

[mjstef]

Ordered this tool kit today. http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6488-Ford-SOHC-Service/dp/B000F5ED12/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top These little buggers actually hold value very well. Here are some running ones. All between $7,000 & $9,000. I was surprised they where bringing so much.............

Used 2001 Ford Ranger 4x4 SuperCab 112,000 miles

Used 2001 Ford Ranger 4x4 SuperCab 136,000 miles.

Used 2001 Ford Ranger XLT 100,000 miles.

Used 2001 Ford Ranger 4x4 SuperCab 105,000

 

[mjstef]

Had a friend run the VIN this am. The tensioner was replaced at 34,000 miles in 03. The people i bought it from picked it up in 03 with 42,000 miles on it. Other than regular maintenance they never had it in the shop for anything. I'm thinking the Ford tech may have F-ed up on the install because he sure half azzed some other stuff. The reason i am suspicious is all 3 bolts for the coil pack that go into the side of the head by the exhaust manifold are missing. There where only 2 holding it on top. This has to come off to pull the valve cover. Also when i pulled the valve cover you could see it was reinstalled with dirt on the head. You can see where the rubber o-ring smashed the dirt onto the head. A good mechanic would have cleaned that. All of the wire holders where not snapped back into place either. Just all around shoddy work. Anyways here are some pics. Pulled a bunch of pieces out. Looks like the front of the engine has to come apart now.........

 

[CDW6212R]

Welcome, I have always loved the Splash Rangers.

That sounds like the engine had a little rattle early on, and they only replaced the front timing chain tensioner. That is the most common thing for Ford to do back then, and it was needed badly on any 97-01 models, maybe longer. Those first models had no check valve installed in the oil galley leading to that one tensioner. On start up the tensioner would take a short time to build pressure to help the internal mechanical spring. That was the rattle so common on early models, and the plastic "straw" looking thing solved that.

Hopefully the owner didn't abuse the engine, and when it did finally have the chain cassette let go, they didn't drive it far. If that's what happened, you may be able to save the engine with just the front timing system rebuild. If so, the engine would be good for a long time, or until the rear cassette has issues etc.

Be sure to do the rear timing chain tensioner too, that one is super easy.

 

[sport97]

Nice score. How much, if you don't mind me asking?

I would imagine that because it still runs that you could replace all the timing components and be set. Or if you feel more comfortable use the engine with 66k, but do the timing components on it while its out. Pull the oil pan to be sure there are no parts laying in there. Maybe see which engine is the cleanest inside and use that one to drop back in? I would do things like plugs and stuff while its out. Those would be easier with it out.

 

[mjstef]

Nice score. How much, if you don't mind me asking?

I would imagine that because it still runs that you could replace all the timing components and be set. Or if you feel more comfortable use the engine with 66k, but do the timing components on it while its out. Pull the oil pan to be sure there are no parts laying in there. Maybe see which engine is the cleanest inside and use that one to drop back in? I would do things like plugs and stuff while its out. Those would be easier with it out.

Got 2K in it. Gonna just replace the front components in chassis and if the back goes i'll yank the engine and put the other one in..............

 

[sport97]

Sounds like a good game plan to me

 

[mjstef]

OK,, Change of plans. I think i have other issues. From what i can see from photos i have found on this site there is supposed to be a bolt here.

If that is the case it's in the engine somewhere. This means pulling the engine to find the pieces. If i'm gonna pull it, i might as well put the 66,000 mile engine in it. Here is the engine tag on the 66,000 mile motor. From the date listed on the tag can i just put in the upper tensioners or do i need to go through the whole thing as well?

 

[mjstef]

Another question, The engine came out of a manual trans ranger, My daughters is an auto. Is there anything i need to be aware of for wiring Ect??

 

[CDW6212R]

The timing work should be done to any pre-2002 4.0 engine, and every 100k miles, maybe less.

You can use any engine, just use the same type of external parts and sensors from the vehicle engine. No worries,

 

[2000StreetRod]

unused hole

That photo is of the front of the left cassette. That hole is not used. There is no bolt missing. See photo below.

Don't spend time looking for a bolt that isn't missing.

This thread may help you - especially if you don't have the timing tool kit:SOHC V6 Timing Chain Inspection & Repair

 

[CDW6212R]

Good catch Dale, I didn't notice that it was that bolt hole.

The two heads are manufactured to be identical, and then they are used for each side with some different parts. So there will be a hole or two like that one that is not used.

 

[mjstef]

Got my cam timing tool in the mail today. Haven't had a chance to pull down the low miles engine for inspection yet.......

 

[mjstef]

OK, Pulled down the 66,000 mile motor and was worried at 1st but now i don't know what to think. There was some sludge, kinda orange color in the t-stat housing and behind the water pump. Here are a few pics.....

 

[mjstef]

But when i pulled the valve covers the inside of the engine looks spotless! The one in the truck has oil leaks all over with 105K on it, this one is spotless. I am going to continue with replacing the timing components but wonder if the chains and sprockets need replaced too? Also gotta find out the side of the bolt holes so i can pull off the harmonic balancer. I have bunches of different bolts for my puller but i believe all are SAE not metric. I know someone posted the size in one of these threads. Any thoughts on my plan are MUCH appreciated!

 

[mjstef]

So i pull the balancer a few minutes ago and get the cover off and no balance shaft! Doing a little google searching it looks like the rangers never came with one? This is an 02 engine out of a wreck 4X4 ranger..............

 

[2000StreetRod]

check the block VIN

I suggest that you check the block VIN on that engine. It has the old style primary tensioner that was supposed to be replaced by the improved one in 2002 and later engines.

The tenth digit of the 17 digit VIN indicates the year of manufacture. The identifier changed in 2001 [1998(W), 1999(X), 2000(Y)------2001(1), 2002(2), 2003(3)]
For the SOHC V6 the last 8 digits are stamped on the rear of the block on the driver's side as shown in the photo below by shelbygt.

 

[mjstef]

I suggest that you check the block VIN on that engine. It has the old style primary tensioner that was supposed to be replaced by the improved one in 2002 and later engines.

The tenth digit of the 17 digit VIN indicates the year of manufacture. The identifier changed in 2001 [1998(W), 1999(X), 2000(Y)------2001(1), 2002(2), 2003(3)]
For the SOHC V6 the last 8 digits are stamped on the rear of the block on the driver's side as shown in the photo below by shelbygt.
View attachment 72000

My bad. Either i fat fingered the keyboard or just messed up period but the engine was manufactured 3/2/01 Going through the parts list thread has confused me a bit. Here is what i have so far:

Engine front:
Lower intake manifold gasket set of six YL2Z9461AA (i have a 1 piece intake)
Crankshaft bolt harmonic balancer E7RY6A340B
Gasket-cylinder/timing front cover F77Z6020AB
Seal-front timing cover 5H2Z6700AA
Guide-engine jackshaft chain 2L2Z6K297AA
Tensioner Jackshaft Chain YL2Z6L266AA
Need part # for water pump gasket.
Left:
Left Guide assembly 7U3Z6A257A
Left timing chain tensioner 7U3Z6K254B
Part # for the Hyd. tensioner that screws in?
Gasket-valve cover F77Z6584BA

Right:
7U3Z6K254A right hydraulic/spring tensioner (is this the Hyd. tensioner that screws in or the plastic tensioner?)
Gasket-valve cover F77Z6584BA
rear block cover(plug) is F77Z6026AB


The inside of the engine looks good and i just want to replace all the plastic crap that breaks. Am i stuck replacing the chains as well as some parts are not available by themselves???

 

[2000StreetRod]

PNs for Ranger

My bad. Either i fat fingered the keyboard or just messed up period but the engine was manufactured 3/2/01 Going through the parts list thread has confused me a bit. Here is what i have so far:

Engine front:
Lower intake manifold gasket set of six YL2Z9461AA (i have a 1 piece intake)
Crankshaft bolt harmonic balancer E7RY6A340B
Tensioner Jackshaft Chain YL2Z6L266AA (there may not have been an upgrade for the Ranger)
Left Guide assembly 7U3Z6A257A (there may not have been an upgrade for the Ranger)
Gasket-valve cover F77Z6584BA

Please confirm with dealer the above parts fit the 2001 Ranger, they are not listed as such.

Left timing chain tensioner 7U3Z6K254B (hydraulic/spring piston with threaded housing)
Right timing chain tensioner 7U3Z6K254A (hydraulic/spring piston with threaded housing)
Right/rear timing chain cassette assembly 4L2Z6M290AA

The left and right guide assemblies are no longer available separately. You will have to purchase the entire cassette (sprockets, chains & guide assembly). If you replace the chains you should replace the sprockets and vice versa due to wear patterns. Some members have saved money by purchasing aftermarket kits containing most of the timing parts. See: SOHC V6 Timing Chain Parts Sources

Be careful not to damage the camshaft oiling tubes. They bend and break easily if struck. The "sludge" behind the water pump may just be accumulated rust after sitting for years. Check the water pump impeller and bearing.

 

[mjstef]

Please confirm with dealer the above parts fit the 2001 Ranger, they are not listed as such.

Left timing chain tensioner 7U3Z6K254B (hydraulic/spring piston with threaded housing)
Right timing chain tensioner 7U3Z6K254A (hydraulic/spring piston with threaded housing)
Right/rear timing chain cassette assembly 4L2Z6M290AA

The left and right guide assemblies are no longer available separately. You will have to purchase the entire cassette (sprockets, chains & guide assembly). If you replace the chains you should replace the sprockets and vice versa due to wear patterns. Some members have saved money by purchasing aftermarket kits containing most of the timing parts. See: SOHC V6 Timing Chain Parts Sources

Be careful not to damage the camshaft oiling tubes. They bend and break easily if struck. The "sludge" behind the water pump may just be accumulated rust after sitting for years. Check the water pump impeller and bearing.

Thanks bro. I really appreciate your expertise. Ask me about a 7.3 powerstroke and i can tell you whatever you need to know but these little go cart engines have me lost!