front brake question

[hkyfinest]

i have a 94 ex xlt. i just replaced the bake shoes and stuff. then i noticed that my pass. side rotor is warped. what is the best way about changing this? thanks

 

[geoph1986]

You should replace the rotor. It costs about the same to have them machined as it does to buy new. Try this, lots of pictures and very thorough.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122696&highlight=1st+gen+front+brake+job+diary

 

[hkyfinest]

thanks alot i just ran across that. now maybe i can get jackstand sally back on the road!

 

[rayford2]

Crooked rotor

I would change BOTH rotors and brake pads to keep everything even on both sides of the vehicle. Good street pads are $30-$35 a set and rotors are about
$40 each. Do the job right the first time.
Make sure your caliper lock pins are oriented in the right position (watch the nipples) when you drive those back in and watch your final torque on that spindle nut! After you tighten that spindle nut to 35 FOOT pounds, back off 1/4 turn and retighten to 16 INCH pounds (NOT 16 FOOT POUNDS). Seen a lot of wheel bearings and rotors bite the dust because of this. Don't forget the anti-rattle clips on the pads....Ray S. in PA

 

[Rhett]

back off 1/4 turn and retighten to 16 INCH pounds (NOT 16 FOOT POUNDS). Seen a lot of wheel bearings and rotors bite the dust because of this.

Is this because the person made the nut too TIGHT or too LOOSE?
What is the most common error you see, too tight or too loose?

 

[rayford2]

Spindle nut

Is this because the person made the nut too TIGHT or too LOOSE?
What is the most common error you see, too tight or too loose?

Usually too tight. The vehicle can go for a long time before any symptoms appear, but when they do...bang. The steering gets funny, the brakes don't work right, and if you do limp it into a mechanic's shop the pads are toast, the rotor is shot, the wheel bearings are cooked and sometimes the spindle loses its structural integrity because it got hot and/or scored.
The problem?...people don't want to buy that 2-1/8 inch socket (about $15 from J.C. Whitney) required to do the job right. Most bum jobs have adjustable wrench slips that round the points on the nut or pipe wrench marks on the nut flats.
If it's too loose the wheel will have excessive play. Wiggle the wheel while it's off the ground to check this out.
A word of advice...make sure you use a magnet or dental pick to remove that square key between the spindle nut and spindle or you'll crack the nut. (Ford wants $70 for this nut, and thats for a STEEL one not a Gold one, but is much cheaper, $15 on the internet).
When you put your properly prepared wheel back on, install the spindle nut finger tight. Then while rotating the wheel slowly, tighten the nut to 35 FOOT
pounds. Back the nut off 1/4 turn and retighten to 15 INCH (I said INCH) pounds and reinstall the square key. If the key doesn't line up between the spindle and nut, loosen the nut until it does.
One more thing, if you're reinstalling an automatic hub, this has to go on with no springy feeling. If it feels like you're pushing against a spring then the hub is not oriented to the wheel right. Reposition it until it goes on with no springy resistance.......Hope this helps.....Ray S. in PA

 

[rayford2]

Usually too tight. The vehicle can go for a long time before any symptoms appear, but when they do...bang. The steering gets funny, the brakes don't work right, and if you do limp it into a mechanic's shop the pads are toast, the rotor is shot, the wheel bearings are cooked and sometimes the spindle loses its structural integrity because it got hot and/or scored.
The problem?...people don't want to buy that 2-1/8 inch socket (about $15 from J.C. Whitney) required to do the job right. Most bum jobs have adjustable wrench slips that round the points on the nut or pipe wrench marks on the nut flats.
If it's too loose the wheel will have excessive play. Wiggle the wheel while it's off the ground to check this out.
A word of advice...make sure you use a magnet or dental pick to remove that square key between the spindle nut and spindle or you'll crack the nut. (Ford wants $70 for this nut, and thats for a STEEL one not a Gold one, but is much cheaper, $15 on the internet).
When you put your properly prepared wheel back on, install the spindle nut finger tight. Then while rotating the wheel slowly, tighten the nut to 35 FOOT
pounds. Back the nut off 1/4 turn and retighten to 15 INCH (I said INCH) pounds and reinstall the square key. If the key doesn't line up between the spindle and nut, loosen the nut until it does.
One more thing, if you're reinstalling an automatic hub, this has to go on with no springy feeling. If it feels like you're pushing against a spring then the hub is not oriented to the wheel right. Reposition it until it goes on with no springy resistance.......Hope this helps.....Ray S. in PA

 

[Rhett]

.Hope this helps.....Ray S. in PA

Don't worry, I've done dozens of hub jobs on these trucks, I've seen it all, from melted bearing packs to disintegrated metal everywhere. However...I was curious about what you had seen.

The problem I have seen with my truck's front end, is that sometimes it seems like the "sweet spot" on the nut torque would put it somewhere in between the keyholes. If you know what I'm sayin'

I put mine back together, and I think "Boy, that's a lot of rolling resistance." Then, I pull the key out, retorque, and go to the next loosest keyhole...and then there is too MUCH play.

In your opinion, how much rolling resistance should their be on our truck's front wheel when it's jacked up?

 

[rayford2]

Don't worry, I've done dozens of hub jobs on these trucks, I've seen it all, from melted bearing packs to disintegrated metal everywhere. However...I was curious about what you had seen.

The problem I have seen with my truck's front end, is that sometimes it seems like the "sweet spot" on the nut torque would put it somewhere in between the keyholes. If you know what I'm sayin'

I put mine back together, and I think "Boy, that's a lot of rolling resistance." Then, I pull the key out, retorque, and go to the next loosest keyhole...and then there is too MUCH play.

In your opinion, how much rolling resistance should their be on our truck's front wheel when it's jacked up?

Hello, Rhett. I think it was fine the way you first had it, you just had to tighten (not loosen) the nut to the next available slot. Don't forget the rotor contacts the brake pads all the time to throw off dirt and moisture. That's why you have to wait before you touch that rotor and that adds to the "rolling resistance" you encounter. The manual says if the keyway doesn't line up after the final 16 INCH pound torque, tighten the nut to the next slot.
Incidentally, I lied about that 2-1/8" socket...should have said 2-3/8". Also, I typed in 15 INCH pounds for final torque...should be 16 INCH pounds. Not enough to worry about I don't think.
If you do a lot of off-roading through water and mud those wheel bearings should be visually checked frequently since there's nothing keeping this stuff from penetrating the whole kaboodle. that's why you see a lot of failures on these parts; "cause nobody looks at them...Ray S. in PA

 

[Rhett]

adds to the "rolling resistance" you encounter. The manual says if the keyway doesn't line up after the final 16 INCH pound torque, tighten the nut to the next slot.

Now that's good to know...that goes in the ol memory banks now.

I just worry about HEAT all the time, thinking I've overtorqued it.

.should have said 2-3/8".

I got my 2 3/8" hub socket about 7-8 years ago from KB Tool http://www.kbtool.com/
back when I posted more around here

Regarding the hub job, I also find putting the snap ring back on is a little annoying, removal is easy with snap-ring pliers but putting it on, my trick is to position the snap ring around the spindle shaft...hold its ends with one hand, then with the other hand, I take a small mallet and gently tap the snap ring into place. If you have a better technique, let me know.

I'm always on the lookout for better techniques...

 

[hkyfinest]

okay so i started tearing down the hub on the passenger side and the spring garter was broken. about a 1/2 inch piece was chunked off. where can i find that? or what is the real name for it? can i put it back in for now until i find it? sorry for all the ?s just want to make sure its 100% right. thats for all the help.

 

[rayford2]

Now that's good to know...that goes in the ol memory banks now.

I just worry about HEAT all the time, thinking I've overtorqued it.





I got my 2 3/8" hub socket about 7-8 years ago from KB Tool http://www.kbtool.com/
back when I posted more around here

Regarding the hub job, I also find putting the snap ring back on is a little annoying, removal is easy with snap-ring pliers but putting it on, my trick is to position the snap ring around the spindle shaft...hold its ends with one hand, then with the other hand, I take a small mallet and gently tap the snap ring into place. If you have a better technique, let me know.

I'm always on the lookout for better techniques...

Degrease the old snap ring and lubricate the spindle groove. A dry snap ring doesn't cause as many slippery problems that a greasy one does...Ray S.