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Front Coilovers

zmrasta24

New Member
Joined
March 12, 2013
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City, State
Chesapeake, VA
Year, Model & Trim Level
2007 Ford Explorer XLT
I have been lurking on the forum since I bought my 2007 Explorer about a year ago. I know that I am going to lift my Explorer but I am not unsure about whether I want to go with coilovers or spacers. The problem with coilovers (Ronin's setup) is that I am hardly a welder of any sorts. My question: Would creating custom coilovers about 1" longer than stock (about 20"-21") stacked with a spacer be possible or would it throw off the geometry of the entire front suspension? I have done a ton of research here on this forum and even looked at chassis' similar to ours (Chevy Trailblazer) and I have come up empty handed. I appreciate any and all input. Thanks all
 



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I have been lurking on the forum since I bought my 2007 Explorer about a year ago. I know that I am going to lift my Explorer but I am not unsure about whether I want to go with coilovers or spacers. The problem with coilovers (Ronin's setup) is that I am hardly a welder of any sorts. My question: Would creating custom coilovers about 1" longer than stock (about 20"-21") stacked with a spacer be possible or would it throw off the geometry of the entire front suspension? I have done a ton of research here on this forum and even looked at chassis' similar to ours (Chevy Trailblazer) and I have come up empty handed. I appreciate any and all input. Thanks all

You might look into the Rancho Quicklifts. Reportedly a good ride and from what I have seen on the specs they have more travel than the stock type struts. The only downside I see with the Quicklifts is you're pretty much stuck with whatever height the springs end up settling to. The Electrician put Truxx spacers on top of them and also installed a set of BTF upper control arms.

Another bolt in option would be the ADS coilovers. The preload ring for the coils would allow you to crank up the preload a bit to make up for any settling of the springs. They're pricey but look really nice:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...light=coilover
 






Another bolt in option would be the ADS coilovers. The preload ring for the coils would allow you to crank up the preload a bit to make up for any settling of the springs. They're pricey but look really nice:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/...light=coilover

Something similar to this is what I have been looking for...the link didn't work but what I have been looking at is something in the area of 20"-21" coilovers (to prevent the upper tabs you needed to create) with something in the area of 6"-8" of travel (any more would cause CV joint bind). Am I in the right ball park or have I misread everything?
 






Something similar to this is what I have been looking for...the link didn't work but what I have been looking at is something in the area of 20"-21" coilovers (to prevent the upper tabs you needed to create) with something in the area of 6"-8" of travel (any more would cause CV joint bind). Am I in the right ball park or have I misread everything?

Here's a working link:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=387573&highlight=coilover

CV joint bind would come into play at some point but you're going to run into ball joint or uniball limits before that happens I think. 6" of shock travel is probably the upper limit on our trucks unless you get into a longtravel setup. Keep in mind that actual wheel travel is going to be significantly more than the travel at the shock...I am seeing somewhere around 8" of available travel l with my fox 5" travel coilovers. Rancho Quicklifts have a little less than that so I don't have much of an edge over those in the travel department. What limits me is the uniball on the upper control arm is maxing out at max compression and droop. Fortunately it happens right at the shock travel limits so I'm not losing anything really.

Can't do anything about that without making longer upper and lower arms. Not worth it for my application.
 






Here's a working link:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=387573&highlight=coilover

CV joint bind would come into play at some point but you're going to run into ball joint or uniball limits before that happens I think. 6" of shock travel is probably the upper limit on our trucks unless you get into a longtravel setup. Keep in mind that actual wheel travel is going to be significantly more than the travel at the shock...I am seeing somewhere around 8" of available travel l with my fox 5" travel coilovers. Rancho Quicklifts have a little less than that so I don't have much of an edge over those in the travel department. What limits me is the uniball on the upper control arm is maxing out at max compression and droop. Fortunately it happens right at the shock travel limits so I'm not losing anything really.

Can't do anything about that without making longer upper and lower arms. Not worth it for my application.

I know that when I lift, whatever route it may be, BTF Upper Control Arms will be on the shopping list as well as new shocks and springs; it is just a matter of whether I go all coilover or coilover plus spacer. What is the space between the stock upper and lower mounting points (aka longest shock without modification)? I hate that when I go over any bump or pothole it feels like the suspension system takes nothing out of what I feel in my seat and am hoping more travel in the shocks/springs would help absorb some of the jarring feeling that I get. In reality this will be a 90% street truck but when that 10% comes, I want it to be completely B.A.
 






What is the space between the stock upper and lower mounting points (aka longest shock without modification)?

For the front, the stock or other OEM design type struts are 21.5" long at full extension and 18.67" at full compression. A mind blowing 2.83" of travel (shock travel, not wheel). The Rancho Quicklifts are just under 5" travel if I remember correctly (the increase comes from additional up and downtravel).

For a custom setup a 5" travel shock is perfect in my opinion, but you could do 6 or maybe a hair over that. You would probably want to limit the travel by limit strap and/or a bumpstop of some kind like I said, but seems kind of pointless to me to have way more shock than you can use.What you really need to look at is the extended and collapsed lengths of the shock of your choice, and factor in mounting brackets, plus the angle of the shock to the lower control arm at full compression.

I would say since you are mainly looking for a good street ride with the option of taking it offroad, the Ranchos are the easiest option. Anything custom is likely going to be way more expensive (just getting the front setup right cost me more than Rancho quicklifts all around). Another plus is you can spread the cost out over time....do the ranchos now, then add spacers and upper control arms later.
 






Did anyone run the Rancho Quicklift non-Loaded (now discontinued but available) with spacers on top? It seems like running the Quicklift Loaded with the spacer on top (The_Electrician) didn't really have the desired outcome. I know I am being picky but I just want to make sure I leave no stone unturned throughout this process.
 






Did anyone run the Rancho Quicklift non-Loaded (now discontinued but available) with spacers on top? It seems like running the Quicklift Loaded with the spacer on top (The_Electrician) didn't really have the desired outcome. I know I am being picky but I just want to make sure I leave no stone unturned throughout this process.

I don't know about the 4th gens, but I think some of the early reports from the 3rd gens with non-loaded quicklifts (i.e., re-using the OEM coils) said that the ride was bouncy. I think that was part of the reason that rancho made the loaded version...they needed to use their own spring to ensure the valving was consistent so the ride wouldn't be bouncy.

Only thing I know of that The Electrician had issue with was that the springs on the Ranchos settled over time...so if you are relying on them for all your lift, expect that to happen. Doesn't take away from the fact that they have adjustable valving and better travel than stock even when the springs settled though. Another factor in his situation was the very heavy winch and winch brushguard which made the front sag even more.

To me, the design of these and OEM struts is the biggest downside since it makes it harder to change out springs. It's a lot easier to do with something like the ADS setup or the Fox shocks.
 






To me, the design of these and OEM struts is the biggest downside since it makes it harder to change out springs. It's a lot easier to do with something like the ADS setup or the Fox shocks.

This is exactly why I was hoping for something more than throwing on another set of OEM type struts with spacers on top. I guess I am looking for the specs of a custom coilover in which I would be able to use to stock strut mounting brackets.
 






This is exactly why I was hoping for something more than throwing on another set of OEM type struts with spacers on top. I guess I am looking for the specs of a custom coilover in which I would be able to use to stock strut mounting brackets.

ADS has already done the work for you there and is a complete bolt on deal from what I understand. You'd still need rear spacers since they haven't developed a rear coilover yet (to my knowledge).

If you end up going the bracket route, I can help you with measurements, etc.
 






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