Front Differential Rebuild

[pzy3339]

Here is one for $1,550....

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...c/10595242-P?navigationPath=L1*14925|L2*15050

 

[pzy3339]

hail rock auto

same unit, same remanufacturer. Only $850 (+175 core)

 

[pzy3339]

Anyone know If I can get the cv axles out of the diff if I just unbolt the diff, lower it down and tap them out each side? or is there not enough room

 

[samert111]

Anyone know If I can get the cv axles out of the diff if I just unbolt the diff, lower it down and tap them out each side? or is there not enough room

I don't think there is enough room and the sway bar links will prevent the outer CV joints to pass thru between it and the strut.

Easiest way to remove the CV Axle assy's is to:

1. Remove tires.
2. Remove the axle spindle nut and tap on the end of the axle to loosen it in the hub. Use some penetrating oil if necessary.
3. Remove the brake caliper and tie it off out of the way and remove the brake pads.
4. Remove the ABS sensor cable from it's retainers so there is alot of slack.
5. Remove the sway bar link.
6. Loosen the upper ball joint nut and hit the steering knuckle with a hammer to pop the ball joint stud loose, then remove the nut.
7. Swing the steering knuckle out while at the same time pushing the axle shaft inward and working it out of the hub from the inside. Do not over extend the CV axle or it can come apart inside the boots on either end.
8. Once the outer end of the axle is out of the hub, using a prybar between the inner CV joint and the end of the differential housing, pop the axle loose and then slide it out of the differential housing. Be careful to not damage the seal. Sometimes the inner axle on the passengers side will come out with CV assy. Just separate them and slide the axle back into the differential until the retaining ring snaps in place.

 

[pzy3339]

I found a guy my dad knows who has his own shop. He is offering to replace my diff with a junk yard diff with 90k miles on it for $635, 6 month warranty on the diff.

He has also offered to do the diff swap alone for $250. Which would mean I provide the replacement diff, which if I buy a remanufactured unit will cost about $900 including shipping. So that route is $1,150. OR have him rebuild the diff, which could end up being up to $1,200 if the ring and pinion are trashed.

Right now im thinking the diff has been whining since 130,000 miles, that's only 40k away for the junk yard diff. So 2 years from now it will be going bad again.

Pretty sure the remanufactured unit, or a rebuild is the way to go.

 

[samert111]

Pretty sure the remanufactured unit, or a rebuild is the way to go.

I would agree. The one I just did for a customer was a rebuild for $850 3 yr / 36K warranty and $250 to replace it. It takes me approx. 2 1/2 hours to swap them out.

 

[MotorCityFats13]

I found a guy my dad knows who has his own shop. He is offering to replace my diff with a junk yard diff with 90k miles on it for $635, 6 month warranty on the diff.

He has also offered to do the diff swap alone for $250. Which would mean I provide the replacement diff, which if I buy a remanufactured unit will cost about $900 including shipping. So that route is $1,150. OR have him rebuild the diff, which could end up being up to $1,200 if the ring and pinion are trashed.

Right now im thinking the diff has been whining since 130,000 miles, that's only 40k away for the junk yard diff. So 2 years from now it will be going bad again.

Pretty sure the remanufactured unit, or a rebuild is the way to go.

Using that formula then mine only has 10,000 left on it because i have 120,000 miles... You could have a worst case scenario on your hands because im sure there are plenty of people that have engines / transmissions break at 200k 250k and never have diff problems when they junk their truck... He should be able to inspect the used diff and give you a working order ballpark on the condition

 

[pzy3339]

Using that formula then mine only has 10,000 left on it because i have 120,000 miles... You could have a worst case scenario on your hands because im sure there are plenty of people that have engines / transmissions break at 200k 250k and never have diff problems when they junk their truck... He should be able to inspect the used diff and give you a working order ballpark on the condition

Can I assume you have a nice and quiet front end?

I have seen a number of threads on this topic. It is the same differential as the 3rd gen, I am going to go through their threads now to see if it is a common issue for them.

I understand your point. All I am saying is if the used one is $400, and a remanufactured one is 900 then whats the difference in value of that first 90,000 miles? Is it worth $500? Its a judgment call I guess.

 

[pzy3339]

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=387068&highlight=front+differential

I need to eliminate this ^^ as a possibility before I do anything. The whine has been there, the vibration is new.

Getting the driveshaft off has been impossible so I need a u joint tool to change it on the vehicle.

 

[MotorCityFats13]

Can I assume you have a nice and quiet front end?

mine has a horrible squeek when you jump up and down on the front bumper, an audible hum from somewhere at 70+ mph and a intermittent binding clunk while turning at low speeds "like I am in low lock" so I would say everything is working perfectly as expected... lol Ive read many threads that basically say until something breaks you cant locate any problems

 

[pzy3339]

mine has a horrible squeek when you jump up and down on the front bumper, an audible hum from somewhere at 70+ mph and a intermittent binding clunk while turning at low speeds "like I am in low lock" so I would say everything is working perfectly as expected... lol Ive read many threads that basically say until something breaks you cant locate any problems

lol, pretty sure the junk yard diff is now out of the question

 

[pzy3339]

With the front driveshaft off I did not notice the vibration. I put a new u joint in it and added some grease to the CV joint. Threw it back on and the vibration seems better but not gone. Hard to say since ive been driving a 96 mustang for the past week which is not a smooth ride. I feel like I lost my perspective. Either way, vibration is still there but slightly different now. At about 35 there is a hum, and from 10 down to stop there is a small rumble, but no longer can be felt during acceleration from 0-10.

Not sure what to do next. After driving the mustang it seems insignificant lol. Maybe just learn to live with it.