Front Drive Shaft?

[koda2000]

Update:
It actually hasn't rained yet today, so I crawled under the truck with a flashlight. The front prop shaft CV boot is blow out and apparently has been for a while. Perhaps it's been changed before, as it had 8mm bolts and not Allen head bolts. The CV bolts came out w/out a struggle, but so far I've only managed to remove one front u-joint strap bolt before my cheap-ass socket snapped. I just got back from NAPA with a quality T30 socket, but it's about to rain again, so It will have to wait until tomorrow. Perhaps I'll heat the remaining strap bolts with my map torch for a few seconds, as the one that came out had red thread locker on it (Ford loves that stuff).

Just twisting the front drive shaft back and forth makes the CV joint rattle, so that's definitely the problem. The front u-joint seems to still be okay so I'll leave it alone. This truck will not be seeing much use in the future, other than weekend hauling, so it should be fine.

I still haven't decided what to do about the front diff cover leak, but there's no way it's coming off without moving the diff back at least a few inches. I'll worry about that later. There seems to be 3 bolts/bushings holding it in place.

 

[SoNic67]

I had sprayed some PB Blaster and let it sit over night...

 

[koda2000]

I had sprayed some PB Blaster and let it sit over night...

Yes, I'm doing that too. I'll get them out one way or other, but why does Ford install hex bolts when you can't get a wrench or socket on them because the strap is in the way? I guess the real issue is why does Ford install a yoke that's so small?

 

[SoNic67]

The rears are bigger. Front didn't need that much torque (being split 35-65 normally), so they saved a couple dollars
Either that or the engineer was really hating the mechanics.

 

[1998Exp]

To the best of my knowledge, the front diff in 2nd gen Explorers (and its yoke) is not a Ford design at all. It's a Dana/Spicer part, originally owned by AMC and developed for Jeeps.

Yes, I'm doing that too. I'll get them out one way or other, but why does Ford install hex bolts when you can't get a wrench or socket on them because the strap is in the way? I guess the real issue is why does Ford install a yoke that's so small?

 

[koda2000]

To the best of my knowledge, the front diff in 2nd gen Explorers (and its yoke) is not a Ford design at all. It's a Dana/Spicer part, originally owned by AMC and developed for Jeeps.

That explains it.

 

[koda2000]

The rears are bigger. Front didn't need that much torque (being split 35-65 normally), so they saved a couple dollars
Either that or the engineer was really hating the mechanics.

Yeah but, don't the 4x4's use the same front diff?

 

[koda2000]

Update:
The new Torx socket easily got the remaining 3 u-joint bolts out. Pulled the driveshaft and removed the old CV joint components. Quite a mess. The old boot was torn in half and what little grease remained in the joint didn't look like grease anymore. After the shaft was removed I ran the engine in gear for a minute and no more clicking noise (not much of a surprise there). I cleaned up the spline of the driveshaft and the other parts I'll be reusing. Now I just have to wait for the new joint and banding tool to come in the mail.

Total costs: $88 for new CV joint, $8 for T30 Torx socket and $13 for the banding tool (= $109).

This looks like it will be a very easy job. I'd rate it 2.5 wrenches, mostly because of how many times I had to crawl in/out from under the truck to get tools and put the trans in/out of gear to get at all the bolts.

Looking at the leaking front diff cover issue, I think I'll just refill the diff with oil rather than trying to reseal the cover. With the limited use this truck will see going forward, I'll just refill the diff when I change the engine oil once a year. Removing the front diff just isn't worth the effort. Maybe I'll throw in some stop-leak to slow down the leaking.

 

[bullnerd]

I'm in the process of doing this too.

I was planning on stopping by NAPA and picking up the joints.

Just checked the NAPA site, says CV manufacturer is Dorman.

 

[koda2000]

I'm in the process of doing this too.

I was planning on stopping by NAPA and picking up the joints.

Just checked the NAPA site, says CV manufacturer is Dorman.

Near as I can tell, Dorman may be the only source for a replacement CV joint for the front driveshaft (PN 932-201). I only paid $88 for the Dorman joint off eBay. I'm sure you'll pay a premium for the same part at NAPA.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Front-D...201-/371447531320?hash=item567bff8738&vxp=mtr

 

[koda2000]

Update and a question:

My Dorman CV kit arrived today. Everything looks fine except a gasket that looks like it's supposed to go under the sheet metal cover. The gasket is torn and doesn't seem to match the bolt hole pattern anyway. The OE cover from the old CV seemed to be glued to the CV.

In the installation video I watched, no mention was made of a gasket or sealant. Is it necessary? With all the grease in there, I don't see how you could even use a sealant.

 

[bullnerd]

I stopped by NAPA today, pick it up tomorrow.

Your right ,about $129 from Napa.

I want to get it done this weekend, driving my daughters POS Jeep sucks!

 

[koda2000]

I stopped by NAPA today, pick it up tomorrow.

Your right ,about $129 from Napa.

I want to get it done this weekend, driving my daughters POS Jeep sucks!

Yeah, of the 5 auto parts chains in my town, NAPA is usually the highest priced. But I recently had to buy a water pump from NAPA for my son-in-laws '97 Sport as no one else had the right one in stock and we had to get it fixed so he could get to work on Monday. NAPA was almost double the price of Advance, but it was a brand new WP.

I also hear what you're saying about Jeeps. Worst, least reliable vehicle I ever owned was a '89 Wrangler. Never again.

 

[SoNic67]

The OE cover from the old CV seemed to be glued to the CV.

I think it was an OE gasket there, because I have used it, together with the OE back cup. I still have in the garage the Dorman ones. No sealant there either.

 

[koda2000]

Job done. I used 3M yellow weather stripping adhesive to from gaskets/seals for the cover and CV boot to joint. Worked pretty well after letting it set up for about an hour. I reused the original cover bolts. Took it for a test ride and no more clicking. Fluids replaced and/or topped off. Next week new tires and then it's ready to go back to my daughter's so she can neglect it again.

 

[skpyle]

Very good job!

Seth K. Pyle