Front or rear locking diff ? | Ford Explorer Forums

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Front or rear locking diff ?

Abom

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August 14, 2006
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City, State
Whitehorse, Yukon Territories
Year, Model & Trim Level
1996 4X4
How do I know if I have a front or rear locking differential ? I ask because I'm about to change the fluid, and am wondering what type of fluid I need to buy.
 



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You have neither. You may have a limited slip rear, but that would be the extent of it.
 






you might have limited slip, but I doubt you have lockers unless someone who owned the truck before you put them in. You can find your axle code on the sticker on the drivers side door, here is the chart of what they stand for.

Explorer Axle Code Description Ratio
41 8.8″ 3.27C
42 8.8″ 4.10C
43 8.8″ 3.08C
44 8.8″ 3.73C
45 8.8″ 3.55C
46 8.8″ 3.73C
D1 8.8″ 3.27L
D2 8.8″ 4.10L
D4 8.8″ 3.73L
D5 8.8″ 3.55L

Notes

L - Limited Slip Differential
C - Conventional (Open) Differential
 






If you have the limited slip rear axle (you won't have a front limited slip unless someone installed one - no factory parts there) you can use any standard gear oil (read the owners manual) with a small bottle of additive for the limited slip. This is commonly available at any auto parts store.

If your area gets really cold, you would be totally blessed to try Amsoil or other GOOD synthetic oil in your differentials, t-case, transmission, and engine! It will start up and drive away on those -20 mornings like a nice fall morning... TOTALLY worth the cost.
 






glfredrick said:
If your area gets really cold, you would be totally blessed to try Amsoil or other GOOD synthetic oil in your differentials, t-case, transmission, and engine! It will start up and drive away on those -20 mornings like a nice fall morning... TOTALLY worth the cost.

Since it hits -60 degrees here in the winter, that's not a bad idea.

What type of Amsoil ? I'm not that familiar with synthetics, does Amsoil simply make an 80w90 synthetic gear oil ?

Also, any negative effects of using synthetic in the front diff of an older truck ? As in, anything that can wear out faster if it's already worn ? I've had extremely bad luck with synthetic in high mileage engines.

Also, from reading the other thread on this, it seems that most people change the rear fluid even if technically it should last the "life of the vehicle". Fair enough, but is there actually a special synthetic fluid in there ? Or is it simply 80w90 with the friction modifier ?

Thank you for the responses !
 






It sounds like you have a mis-conception or two about synthetic oils -- and if you're not familiar with Amsoil, it is likely due to the fact that you've tried other oils called "synthetic" that perhaps were not.

Mobil 1 (in certain formulations!), Royal Purple, Redline, Amsoil, and a couple of other lesser-known brands (Mystic, etc.) are actually true synthetics. The balance are regular oils with synthetic additives, which are now able to be sold over the counter as actual synthetic oils.

Of these, Amsoil is (IMO) the industry leader, and still king. They were the first, and their oil is a long-chain-molecule blend that will protect to very high temps and loads as well as flow freely at very low temps -- so freely that it is like fall weather in deep winter. Though I've not lived where it gets to -60, I did live most of my life in Central Wisconsin, where we saw -25 fairly regularly, so I'm aware of what happens once the thermometer heads for that cozy little bulb on the bottom...

What might have caused any "problems" you saw in a motor is the fact that the synthetic oils tend to have a higher detergent load, plus the fact that they find their way into EVERY crack and cranny possible -- great for best lubrication, not so good in an old motor with worn seals...

Amsoil will not cause more wear -- period. In fact, it will virtually halt oil-related wear because it is SO high in lubricity. I don't recommend using it in a new or almost new vehicle because it will never break in properly!

Another worry that I've heard over and over is that "once you run synthetic oil, you cannot go back to regular oil." That is total BS. No such thing. It would be stupid to go back, as you loose all the protective qualities of the synthetic oil, but otherwise, no harm is done. They are perfectly compatible.

This is what I run in my own trucks:

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/svg.aspx

Notice in the spec chart at the bottom of the site that it still free flows at -60F. I dare you to try that with any other gear oil! They turn to peanut butter at around +15F.

I'd run it in a heartbeat if I lived where you live.

There are two ways you can get the stuff (and note: I'm NOT a dealer -- just a VERY satisfied customer!). Either buy it online from some dealer that sells that way, or become your own dealer. The buy in for a dealership is cheap -- around my area $10 a year to get dealer pricing, with NO inventory required. You get that back on the first oil change!

Finally, there is no oil that lasts "the life of the vehicle." That is another joke. Amsoil is an extended change interval oil, but even it doesn't claim "life of the vehicle" use. What the manufacturer is saying by "life of the vehicle" is that if you leave the oil in your truck and never change it, you will be purchasing a new vehicle about every 75,000 miles, right on schedule -- which is their idea of "life." Their idea is definitely not mine. I tend to run 200-300K on my stuff, and then I either sell it in good condition and still running or part it out if the body is gone. Either way, with the synthetics, the running gear is still running great at 200+ thousand miles.
 






Thanks a lot for the detailed info. I will definately be looking around town for synthetic to put into my diffs. Engine will still run regular dino oil, but the diffs sound like they'd act like glue in the deep cold.

I am off to hunt for synthetic tomorrow !
 






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