Front Right Wheel Bearings - Help

[EScottH]

I finally got her on the road today and was noticing a bit of a pull to the right and a 'cycling' whenever I stepped on the brakes.

When I got home I jacked her up, got out the impact wrench and took the tire off. The 4x4 dust cover came off with the wheel when it pulled it off... not sure if it was supposed to. Any way, I looked at the caliper, rotor and brake pads and they look good. Still some meat on the pads (going to change them, replace the bleeder screws and flush the system anyway).

I am thinking that this is a wheel bearing problem. Never messed with a 4x4 before, so any advice would be helpful. Here is a link to some pics I took when I got the wheel off.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Scott

 

[gmanpaint]

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=199915

Sometimes when the wheel nuts come loose, it will pull a bit to one side, and make the rotor wobble a bit.
Yours looks like it has just way to much old grease on it. I would remove the bearing and clean everything, re-pack the bearing, and put it back together with the info on the link posted.

Don't forget there is a key way they needs to be removed. Use a pick and a magnet to help draw it out. It's in the grooved slot, hidden a bit.

 

[1AJeremyD]

I've got a video with a break down of everything for you

http://www.youtube.com/user/1aauto#p/search/9/vHzgw8vnYg8

Enjoy!

 

[EScottH]

Thanks for all the advice, guys. As far as the Summit kit goes, what does it replace as compared to a standard bearing repack?

 

[gmanpaint]

I think the kit comes with the axle seal is all.

 

[EScottH]

Jeremy, I just watched your video and I noticed it is for the 1995-2005, It doesn't look like the assembly on my 1991 4x4. Do you have a video for the '91's?

Thanks,

Scott

 

[EScottH]

Also, what I identified as the 'dust cover' in my initial post is actually the Auto Locking 4WD Hub. Should it have just popped off when I removed the tire?

Thanks,

Scott

 

[gmanpaint]

Perfectly normal. If it separates, you just put it back together. If one half falls to the ground, it might get contaminated with debris sticking to the grease. Clean it and re-grease it before installing again. Too much grease will kill it prematurely, a practice way too many people think is good for it. Read up on cleaning them and the proper way to grease them.

Everything you need to know about your rig has already been covered here by someone. Search out your answers and you will have any info you need within 5 mins.

 

[1AJeremyD]

Sorry about that. Didn't notice you had a 91. We currently don't have anyone here that owns any first gens so as for the video, we haven't had a chance to make one yet.

 

[EScottH]

If I were as photogenic as you guys are, I would tape myself doing the repair for you so you can add it to your archive ;P

 

[EScottH]

So...

If I decide I want to completely rebuild this assembly, what parts will I need? Just new bearings or what?

 

[EScottH]

Here is the assembly, as far as I can tell:

Link

Can anyone verify?

Also, the listed steps:

1. Raise the vehicle and install safety stands.
2. Remove the wheel lugnuts and the wheel and tire assembly.
3. Remove the retainer washers from the lugnut studs. Remove the automatic locking hub assembly from the spindle.
4. Remove the snap ring from the end of the spindle shaft.
5. Remove the axle shaft spacer.
6. Pull cam assembly off the wheel bearing adjusting nut and remove the two plastic thrust spacers from the adjusting nut. CAUTION: Do not pry on the plastic cam or thrust spacers during removal. Prying may damage the cam or spacers.
7. Using a magnet, remove the locking key. NOTICE: If required, rotate the adjusting nut slightly to relieve pressure against the locking key, before the key can be removed. CAUTION: To prevent damage to the spindle threads, look into the spindle keyway under the adjusting nut and remove the separate locking key before removing the adjusting nut.
8. Loosen the wheel bearing adjusting nut from the spindle using a 2-3/8 inch hex locknut wrench.
9. While rotating the hub and rotor assembly, tighten the wheel bearing adjusting nut to 47 Nm (35 ft lb) to seat the bearings. Spin the rotor and back off the nut one-quarter turn (90 degrees).
10. Retighten the adjusting nut to 1.8 Nm (16 in lb) using a torque wrench.
11. Make sure the final end play of the wheel on the spindle is 0.00-0.08mm (0.000-0.003 inch).
12. Align the closest lug in the wheel bearing adjusting nut with the center of the spindle keyway slot. Advance the nut to the next lug if required. Install the separate locking key in the spindle keyway under the adjusting nut.

WARNING: Extreme care must be taken when aligning the spindle nut adjustment lug with the center of the spindle keyway slot to prevent damage to the separate locking key. the wheel and tire assembly may come off while the vehicle is in motion if the key is damaged.

13. Install the two thrust spacers and push or press the cam assembly onto the locknut by lining up the key in the fixed cam with the spindle keyway. CAUTION: Extreme care must be taken when aligning the fixed cam key with the spindle keyway to prevent damage to the fixed cam.
14. Install the axle shaft spacer.
15. Clip the snap ring onto the end of the spindle shaft.
16. Install the automatic locking hub assembly over the spindle. Align three hub assembly legs with three pockets in cam assembly. Install the retainer washers.
17. Install the wheel and tire assembly. Install and tighten lugnuts to 135 Nm (100 ft lb).

Scott

 

[EScottH]

OK...

Just ordered the grease seal, inner cup, inner bearing, outer cup and outer bearing. $65 at Napa. Not too bad...

 

[1AJeremyD]

Thats a fair price on that. Sounds like you got everything covered on your end to fix it. Good luck and let us know how it goes

 

[EScottH]

I was going to buy the parts from you, Jeremy, but I couldn't find them on the website (

 

[DeRocha]

If you haven't already you should take a peek at the 1st Gen Brake thread for lots of into and pics on replacing brakes and wheel bearings.

 

[94Sport5Sp]

Hi:

Just for information.

The Auto Locking 4WD Hub, on most x's, is held in place by the rim which is held in place by the wheel nuts. When you take the rim off the Hub usually comes off as well. If you are lucky you catch it before it falls then you prevent debris from getting into the hub.

I use, what I call, a speed nut. A very thin washer with flanges on it. You press it on over the threads and it hold the Hub in place. These are inexpensive, like 90 cents each or so.

So a speed nut (also called clip-on nut, or U-nut, or J-nut, or sheet metal nut, or many other names) holds the Hub on without interfering with the rim or wheel.

Trust that helps
PaMnd

 

[Tony H]

I finally got her on the road today and was noticing a bit of a pull to the right and a 'cycling' whenever I stepped on the brakes.

When I got home I jacked her up, got out the impact wrench and took the tire off. The 4x4 dust cover came off with the wheel when it pulled it off... not sure if it was supposed to. Any way, I looked at the caliper, rotor and brake pads and they look good. Still some meat on the pads (going to change them, replace the bleeder screws and flush the system anyway).

I am thinking that this is a wheel bearing problem. Never messed with a 4x4 before, so any advice would be helpful. Here is a link to some pics I took when I got the wheel off.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Scott

I may be missing something here but how did you conclude it was bearings? Does the Hub wobble? When you jacked it up off the ground did the Tire droop inward? Is there movement when you push/pull on the Tire in the 12:00 and 6:00 position as well as the 9:00 and 3:00 positions?
I'm leaning toward a Brake issue:
Did you compress the Caliper to make sure it's not frozen. Check for a frozen caliper on the other side of the car.
If it pulls to the Right when you hit the brake, The Left Caliper might be frozen.

 

[EScottH]

I think you are right, but it is on the right side. Looks like the caliper piston seal is dry rotted. Disassembling now...

 

[EScottH]

Yep...

Both front calipers were frozen and dry rotted. I went and got two reman kits, with pads and am in the process of installing them. I have cleaned all the races and lubed them. My question, though, has to do with the brass washers on the brake lines.

The old caliper had one thick brass washer for the brake line. The new caliper came with two thinner ones. Do I use both of the thinner ones, or just one?

Thanks,

Scott