Front Rotors Rusted and Seized - 2000 Explorer | Ford Explorer Forums

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Front Rotors Rusted and Seized - 2000 Explorer

CheckTheGate

Member
Joined
September 6, 2014
Messages
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City, State
Memphis, TN
Year, Model & Trim Level
2000 Ford Explorer
Any tips on how to remove my old rotors? They are rusted and won't budge.

I have tried beating them with a hammer, heating with a torch, and even buying 3 inch bolts and nuts to run through the bracket behind the rotor and put pressure on them until they break loose. No luck.

The last method was quite a pain. The holes don't line up with the blade of the rotor exactly right, so I can't get a good point of contact to push on the rotor. Also, i broke one of the bolts and it is lodged in the bracket and up against the rotor. Fun.
 



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your description of what you are trying to do has me quite confused. are you saying the rotor is rusted and stuck to the caliper, or to the hub? you don't say, but i assume it must be 4WD/AWD.
 






Use a bigger hammer, heat it, hit it, cool it down rapidly with water, hit it again and again. Keep turning it while you're working it. Might take some time.
 












your description of what you are trying to do has me quite confused. are you saying the rotor is rusted and stuck to the caliper, or to the hub? you don't say, but i assume it must be 4WD/AWD.

Its stuck to the hub. I got the caliper and its bracket off just fine. Also, I have just a 2WD.
 






Use a bigger hammer, heat it, hit it, cool it down rapidly with water, hit it again and again. Keep turning it while you're working it. Might take some time.

Haha, that sounds frustrating but I'll give it a few thousand wacks tomorrow.
 






Squirt the mating surfaces with a rust-dissolving
penetrant such as PB Blaster. Take a break for a
few hours, then try again.

I have let stuff sit overnight after spraying penetrant,
and it comes off easily the next day.
It's like magic...
 












This. ^

I hope you're not trying to just whack off the rotor with the bearing in place..

You might as well change the bearings too if you're in there.
 






























Here are some photos. I don't see the nut to remove.
Wow dude, I can see it clear in your pictures.
I know that is an archaic system, but that's how all the cars used to look like before the advent of "floating" discs and sealed hubs.
swshawaii posted before me, so yes you need to replace the bearings now, after so much beatings...

PS: This is how you post a pic, so people don't have to click on links (used the "Insert Image" icon):

image.jpg
 






OHM dude... you're trying to remove the 2wd front rotor w/out first removing the spindle nut? no wonder you can't get it off. no special tools are required to remove the nut.

1. remove the dust cover (hammer and large screw driver)
2. remove the cotter pin (pliers)
3. remove the sheet metal nut cover (i don't know what else to call it)
4. using a large adjustable wrench, or even a large pair of locking pliers, remove the spindle nut and the rotor (with it's bearings) will pull right off.

i hope you're planning on installing new rotors and bearings, as you've most likely damaged your old ones in your removal attempts. please note that there is a very specific torque procedure to use when re-installing the spindle nut and do not reuse the old cotter pins. also be sure to pack the bearings with hi-temp disc bearing grease.

if you're saying the rotor wont come off even with the spindle nut removed, the bearings are seized to the axle/spindle and the spindle is probably ruined and will need to be replaced. to remove the knuckle you at will at least need a large 2-jaw puller to break the lower ball joint loose from its taper, although a hammer will sometimes pop it free. then there's the tie-rod end (puller again) the upper ball joint and the ABS wire.
 






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