1997 front rotors rusted on | Ford Explorer Forums

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1997 front rotors rusted on

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City, State
Port Moody, British Columbia
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 Explorer XL
I'm trying to replace the front brakes on my 1997 Explorer XL and the rotors are seized to the hubs. Any advice on getting them freed up?
 



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Using a hammer.. hit the rotor around the mounting area where it meets the hub.. Give a good few whacks and it should fall off
 






use the head of the hammer, place it behind the rotor and pull it towards you hard. Do this all around the radius of the rotor. That's how I got mine off.
 






your explorer is 4wd or 2wd?
 






chrisis said:
your explorer is 4wd or 2wd?

That, my friend, is the FIRST question we should always ask around here!

If it's a 4x4, there are numerous ways you can remove them. All of them involve a three jaw puller, a big farking hammer, a torch, a die grinder, a large arbor press, penetrating oil, pry bars, a couple of scraped knuckles, a lot of cursing, or some combination of the lot. A search will turn up plenty of tips, all of which involve brute force.

FYI, a thin layer of anti-sieze on the back face of the rotor where it meats the hub flange, and a thin coating around the hub itself where it sticks through the rotor will make it MUCH easier the next time you need to change them.

-Joe
 












the only think that you need to do is to remove tire, remove caliber and then the rotor it should come out.

if the rotor is rusty then put a pad or something at the back side of the disc and hit the rotor till it comes out.never hit the rotor direct with a hummer because then you going to need a new rotors and they are not cheap.

it should come out easier if you turn the rotor and hit it all around.
 






by the way if the rotors are in good condition do whatever i say, turn the rotors and put new pads.
 






Removing stuck rotors

I have 97 XLT 4WD. The rotors were unbelievably stuck.
Couple of factoids:
1. Rotors are cheap ~$30 each, buy new rotors.
2. Removing with a big hammer is the often suggested approach.
3. Mine were so stuck, couldn't get enough backswing to get them off.
4. Eventually came off after beating for about 1.5 hours -- bad. Don't listen to that advice.
5. I put a three jaw puller on the edge of the rotor, center in the stack of washers in the center of the hub. I tightened considerably, tighter, tighter, rotor wouldn't come off. Left the puller under tension and hit the rotor lightly with a hammer, the rotor flew off about 2.5', no exaggeration. Good thing I happened to be standing up to the side since my back was hurting. Unfortunately, this data applies to the rears, because the fronts were beaten mercilessly with a hammer. The rears look just like the fronts, though, so it should work on the fronts exactly the same.
6. Last rear wheel, applied 3 jaw gear puller, applied very slight pulling pressure, hit the back of the rotor a couple of times with a rubber hammer, success. Just broke free by popping ~1/8", enough to tap them off the rest of the way. That rotor could possibly have been reused.
7. Believe me, all of my rotors were extremely stuck.
8. The front rotors are slightly cheaper than the back ones, which are ~$30+, because the rear rotors contain a drum for the parking brake.
9. You can check the prices of the rotors at Autozone online, if you want.
10. My rotors had these little metal clips over the wheel lugs, remember to remove those first, don't cut your fingers.
11. I don't know why this method isn't the recommended forum approach, and so i cannot supply a warranty with this technique, especially in terms of its impact on bearings, etc. However, I will "virtually guarantee" that the rotors will come off with this method, or double my advice back to you.
12. Ford manual says, in summary "remove clips, then remove rotors". No mention of the ungodly force required to remove them if they're 9 years aged.
13. A large 3 jaw gear puller is available at Autozone for ~$18.
 






Rotors - no heat

One other thing, Ford says don't apply heat to hub.
 






Exploradoora said:
One other thing, Ford says don't apply heat to hub.

Correct. Excessive heat can warp the bearing seals causing them to fail prematurely.
 






Exploradoora said:
11. I don't know why this method isn't the recommended forum approach, and so i cannot supply a warranty with this technique, especially in terms of its impact on bearings, etc. However, I will "virtually guarantee" that the rotors will come off with this method, or double my advice back to you.

Because a rubber mallet and some penetrating oil are usually more than adequate. Like someone said, use some anti-seize around the flange and it pretty much eliminates the need for the hammer.
 






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