Front Shock Mounts

[DeerHunter]

Hello,
I have been lurking here for quite some time, but now have a problem I need help with.
I recently bought a 93 X 4X4 to use on the deer lease and this weekend when I went to replace the front shocks I discovered that both of lower shock mount studs have been twisted off right where the threaded portion meets the solid shank where the shock rides. The front shocks are just sitting on the studs with nothing to keep them from sliding outward and coming off.
Are the studs replaceable, are the welded on to the radius arm or do I need to just drill them off and use grade 8 bolts in their place? Any help will be appreciated.
You have a great site here.
DeerHunter

 

[F14CRAZY]

Howdy. The exact same incident happened to me a few months ago when replacing my front shocks. I wasn't wrenching on it hard, so I don't understand how the stud didn't break off earlier, but anyway...

It seems that this stud/bolt is formed into the big piece it connects to (can't remember the exact name). Using my dad's Dremel and disk grinder, I chopped it off and smoothed it out. As i said, the stud and the big piece are one piece. I drilling a hole through it, got a bolt to fit the shock/grommet, and put it back together. I used two nylon locking nuts tightened against each other so that there is enough slack for the shock to move on the bolt but the bolt won't come off. Its been like this for months. I've inspected it often but haven't had to tighten or fix anything.

I know it's kind of a cobble job, but it has worked out fine for me. depending on where you are, corrosion of the nut/bolt may be an issue but this truck will only be driven in non-winter months.

 

[jermiah]

Happened to me too, I replaced mine in similiar fashion except I used a stud made for this. I think I got it at autozone but whoever your local auto parts store is should have it as well. It is grade 8 and Zinc coated, has held great so far.

 

[MrShorty]

"By the book," you're supposed to replace the whole radius arm when those studs break (~$50 each side for the part new from the dealer). I just drilled mine out when they broke and replaced with a "universal" stud mount found in the Help! section at my local autoparts store.

 

[F14CRAZY]

Jermiah and Mrshorty probably took the better route than I did.

 

[glfredrick]

Ford used to use a through bolt for the lower shock mount (on the DANA 28 front ends found on the Rangers. I think it is a much stronger and better way of mounting the shock.

I usually drill the broken mount out - then use a grade 8 bolt of the correct size - and I usually add a brace to the outside (like the Rangers used - get them from the junkyard or make your own out of steel strap) for extra strength and support. I've never broken one set up this way.

BTW, the reason that you are probably breaking the mounts is becasue your shocks are acting as limit straps for your front suspension travel. That can be eliminated as a problem by installing the F 250 shock mounts in place of the stock shock mounts and running a shock about twice as long. Works for me and I am getting about 16" of travel with my Ex front end and over 18" with my Ranger. Make sure that your brake lines don't become the new limit strap...

 

[Brain]

I have almost the same problem with my '91. The stud has pulled off of the radius arm (along with a 50 cent piece size of metal from the radius arm). I was thinking of welding it up and calling it good, but the shock has rubbed so much metal off (I bought it this way, so I don't know how long it's been like this), I think I'm better off just replacing the arm. I could weld on a reinforcement plate and drill some bolt holes for a brace....hmmm

 

[glfredrick]

If you hae the capability to do your own welding and fitting you can make a much better mount than the factory did. I would say go for it...

Remember, the factory is mostly concerned with on-road performance in a very limited suspension sense - and in no way the extremes that we place suspension into in off-roading situations. They also have people that calculate the cost down to tenths of a penny on each part - striving to return to the stock holders the largest margins - not build the most bullet proof trucks...

I would make a U-shaped piece out of something like 1/4" plate - drill it for the correct bolt size - weld it to the arm - and use a grade 8 bolt that fits the shock bushing. It will never break again...

 

[sploder92]

yep

Welding a grade 8 bolt into the arm worked for me on one side, the other side was still good. I tacked the end nuts(2) in place on the very end, so they won't move and the weld can be grinded off if I have to replace the alredy new shock when I get a lift kit.