Fuel Pressure Test - Where to?

[BuffaloXplorer]

Where do i hook up the guage to test fuel pressure? Is there more than one place to do this. I found a schrader valve along the passenger side of the intake manifold with a blue cap. Is this the place? Also, upon further inspection of the picture, it looks like the manifold has a hole just above the valve. I'll double check when i get to the vehicle, but if it is indeed a hold can i patch it with something?

 

[spindlecone]

Thats what the schrader valve is for, testing fuel pres.

 

[aldive]

.

 

[BuffaloXplorer]

Al, i'm not sure what your pic depicts, but i don't see that on my OHV.

Well, i used the schrader valve on the fuel rail and got a constant 30-31 psi at idle. Upon removing the vacuum from the FPR, it immediately jumped to 40. And after turning the engine off, with vacuum back on, the pressure actually INcreased to 38 and held for at least 5-10 minutes. I guess it tests fine and that the injectors are not leaky.

I'm not sure why my pic isn't showing anymore, if you even saw it in the first place (haven't yet mastered the art of image inserts), but on the pic i could see that there was a hole in what i thought was the intake manifold. It is actually a gap between the upper intake and the fuel rail. There is also a narrow slot (hole) at the rear on the passenger side as well. Are these holes a problem???

***** Also, could you direct me to a thread that explains how to get pics up? I'vce tried attachments and i tried using the [im*g]http://yadayadayada[im*g] way (w/o asterisk) but i can't get the pic to stay up

 

[BuffaloXplorer]

Is there supposed to be a gasket between the fuel rail and upper intake manifold?

From the valve, at about 1 o'clock, there's a 1/16" sliver of an opening between the two.

 

[Brain]

That isn't a problem (except for junk collecting in there). There is a gasket between the two, but you probably can't see it. The gasket fits in between, and there is a raised sealing lip around each of the six intake ports (separately, not just one big one around the circumference). The blue cap is where you test the fuel pressure (as you obviously did already).

Here's a link to some illustrations (look closely at Figure 6, as it shows the non-intake ports that are just holes/spaces in the fuel rail which is probably what you are seeing):
http://www.alldatadiy.com/alldata/A...100411974/34856156/34856653/42063475/42527966

 

[BuffaloXplorer]

For ****'s & giggles, i'm going to shoot some canned air into that area to see if it's getting sucked in....thanks for the help.

 

[spindlecone]

For ****'s & giggles, i'm going to shoot some canned air into that area to see if it's getting sucked in....thanks for the help.

Might try some berrymans carb cleaner in a spray can at idle, if you have any vac. leaks your idle will turn to s$$T

 

[BuffaloXplorer]

I've probably got (spray) carb cleaner handy at home, i'll try that - thanks.

After all is said & done, i'm kinda upset that the fuel tests OK. I was hoping that a bad FPR was the culprit for my 10mpg. B/c the pressure held, a sticky injector isn't the problem (right?).

At this point, i cannot think of any EXternal-engine issues that i haven't already addressed. Plugs & wires are new, o2 sensors test fine. Cleaned maf, iac, tb & k&n drop in. Coolant temp is OK. Flowmaster cat-back is new. DPFE & EGR solonoid replaced. I've run through the "routine" & "not-so-routine" maintenance in the Haynes manual and i'm pretty sure it's all been done. It runs well, climbs above 90 if necessary and sounds good doing it. IS there something obvious to check that i haven't listed?

Again, i DO have a CEL for p0402 for EGR..flow excessive (which is y i replaced the DPFE & Solonoid). EGR is next and will be the last external engine repair i make before it gets pushed over a cliff. I've tried to replace it before i swapped the DPFE & solonoid, but b/c it's a 1 1/16" or 1 1/4" joint, i didn't have a wrench compact enough to get in there and get it off the manifold pipe w/o breaking the pipe. Not sure what i'd pay a mechanic to do so. Once this is done, and even if it raised my mileage to a whopping 12-13mpg, i'm not sure i'd even be content. 15mpg city i think i'd be OK with.

What other tests can i do to check for internal defects?

 

[spindlecone]

Would think the CEL needs to be addressed first, I also wonder how much your conversion adds to the wgt and wind resistance of your Ex, perhaps your currant mileage is normal

 

[BuffaloXplorer]

As far as the EGR issue, i once read on here that by applying suction to the vacuum port on the valve, it can be tested. If the engine boggs down, the valve is functioning properly. My valve tests OK as far as this goes, as the engine does, in fact, bogg down. The vacuum applied to the egr is controlled by the solonoid, which is new. Hmmmmm...i dunno.

If the test actually determines that the valve is OK, what else could it be? I've checked the hoses to/from the dpfe and they're clear, and i checked the vacuum tube to the solonoid from the egr. I think i'm going to take the dpfe back to autozone and get a new one - i think it's still under the 3mo warranty period.

About my weight & aerodynamics, I posted here asking about everyone's vehicle weight and got no response - time for a bump. According to my registration, my vehicle weight is 4340. I would assume that, when altered from factory weight, it would have needed to be documented accordingly. Esp. since most registrations rely on the weight being pushed around on the roads. I know that i can get the GVWR from the sticker on the door, but i can't seem to find the actual vehicle weight.

Thanks for your assistance...