getting the brake line nut loose at the rear drivers side

[viper1314]

I posted on here about another question about my brakes making noise...then one of the lines ruptured and posted in there to get some help on doing that...no takers. So I am trying to get more exposure to this by making its own thread.

The brake line that is ruptured has a pin hole leak near the connection at the bracket at the rear of the truck. This connection has the metal line going into then its in a metal braket then the rubber hose that goes to the drivers rear caliper is connected on the other side of the bracket.

I sprayed pb-blaster on the bolts last night , and the thing is still hard to get out. The bracket that the metal brake line goes into is stopping me from turning the wrench when i get on it. Then all the other fuel hoses and other lines are running back in there so its really tight quarters.

any tips on getting that bolt loose ? I got to the point after 3 hours of thinking and trying to get it off that I called some auto shops around here to see the price it would be to get it repaired. I don't trust many mechanics in this town.

 

[IZwack]

Don;t worry about the braket itself, just break the steel line off from the nut itself and then use a rachet and socket on the nut for the line.

Unfortunately, this can not be done to the rear hard brake lines because if these metal lines are broken, that means running a new set of lines all the way from almost the engine bay.

I know it is tight under there, but i went through the wheel well

The front fittings are the only ones accessible via the wheel wells. The rear ones are inboard of the frame rails.


viper1314 >> if the hole is on the rear metal brake line, you have two options:
- replace the brake line: although this is the right thing to do, it is difficult and involves dropping the gas tank to remove the old line from the frame rail and routing new ones.
- if you have a wire-fed welder, you could open all bleed valves at the calipers until no more fluid comes out (to get the fluid level below the pinhole to stop it from leaking during the welding process), then tack the pinhole shut with the welder and hope for the best. Of course you're taking a gamble with this solution but it should hold provided the tack weld is done properly. The welder should be set to a low setting and the area around the pinhole cleaned with a wire-wheel.

 

[viper1314]

I did not get the clip out yet , but I see it there, just a little rusty and needs some coaxing to get out.

I got a friend who works at a nearby mechanic shop said I could just cut the line and then run a new line , just as long as its not touching any metal of the frame I should be alrigth without dropping the gas tank. But I am sure dropping the tank is the best way to do it.

My plan was to get the old line out, take it to napa have them match the length and connectors and then run the line as far as I could through the frame rail and then rig up something when I get to the gas tank, that won't touch metal and keep it from getting hammered from the elements. But its looking less like I can do that.

Automotive shop down the road said they could do brake lines anywhere from 25-100 dollars. Of course they haven't seen it yet, just only what I described to them. Thing about mechanic shops they go under there and then claim you need to spend 300-400 dollars to fix something else, as least the ones around here.

 

[budwich]

in the past, I have add some success using a "mini torch" (ie. the ones based on a cigarette light).... because of its size and flame size you can readily control exactly where to heat and hit the heat only on the receiving nut (ie. hose side). If you get it hot enough, it should expand enough to allow you to turn the other flare nut (ie. brake line side). Of course, care has to be taken in terms of fluid being around. On my attempts, the lines were NOT leaking at the area in questions so the concern was less. Have a fire extinguisher handly if you attempt this though... just in case. Good luck.

PS: regardless of how you do things, the line or portions there off will have to be replaces as the line closest to the nut will usually end up breaking from trying to turn the flare nut... just because it will not allow the nut to turn freely on the line itself.

 

[viper1314]

well I ended up taking it to the auto shop a couple blocks over from here. hated to leave it there, but it needed fixed ASAP. Just didn't have the tools to do the flanges , connections

I checked the line when I got home, the new line only runs from the back to about the middle of the frame...about a foot or so pass the gas tank. Doesn't look like they dropped the tank as the old line is still in there. Just hope the new line isn't rubbing the frame anywhere behind the tank.

Price wasn't too bad charged 45 for labor and around 15 for parts after taxes it ended up being $67.