Good price for gears/locker????

[dreamr]

So this evening I have been making a few calls (really only one, got off to late) to get an idea of where the money for winters projects will come from.

The goal is simply 33", but it seems that most of the stuff you have to do to a truck is to accomodate rubber.

Point being, todays task was gearing costs.
At this point cost is a significant factor.
What I want is 4.56 for the diffs and a selectable locker in the rear.

Locker has three options;
The Eaton E-locker
The Auburn ected
And the ARB

I am leaning toward the electric versions, and the cost of the two units is the same so I guess i have some research to do in this area.

My question to all of you is what am I looking at for parts and install?

Randy's ring and Pinion up the street qouted me 1500 for gears, install accessories, and labor.
To toss in either electric locker will be no extra labor and 649 for the locker itself.

They said with an appointment I could get it back later that day which was a plus. Anyway is this a good figure or not?????

Sorry for the multitude of threads I may start in relation to ....... rubber accomadations I have no experience and y'all have alot

 

[appx91]

My local shop charges 600 for installing plus the cost of gears. For Dana 44 or something relatively easy they can do it for about a grand and then just the cost for the locker, no labor for locker. So maybe a lil high but I dunno what diff's are you doing it for.

 

[sk1er17]

you gotta keep in mine here, he has a gen2- that means his entire front end has to be taken apart to get to the diffy... hence the high labor...


thats the reason im sticking with my 4.10s and putting a powertrax lockrite in my rear diffy...

 

[Buckshot]

...im sticking with my 4.10s and putting a powertrax lockrite in my rear diffy...

4.10 on 35's? little sluggish though, right? I'm thinking that 4.56 might not be enough (although 4.56 is closest to stockers with 3.73's) and 4.88 on 35's would be best for on and off road hybrid for a daily driver.


I'm debating the ARB or a different locker too. Fron what I understand the ARB is 100% open or 100% closed. There are some from Detroit that are 100% closed and limited slip switchable. Thoughts?

Not to hijack, but it might be relevant with this question (and I want to know the answer too...)

 

[sk1er17]

if i had 3.73's- i would probably go with 4.56's.

However since i have 4.10's.. i wouldnt notice a big enough difference to justify spending $1600 for 4.56's... so i was thinking about going with 4.88s.

But in all seriousness... i guess this is where the SOHC excells. its sluggish when i first get on the gas- but as soon as my rpms get over 2K it speeds right up. And its by no means "slow".

Also.. im gettin just over 15mpg

Chris (lizardtrac) made a good point when i was talking to him about the gears.. the 8.8 is optimized for 4.10s. Which means if you go with 4.88's or higher the teeth are getting thin and prone to breaking; especially with a locker installed.

Edit: all that put together is why i opted to stick with the 4.10s and toss a locker in the rear. I dont use my truck for racing, and its plenty fast enough to get me into the flow of traffic. $1600 is a lot of accessories

 

[appx91]

yea thats why I asked what year or diffs. Yea IFS and TTB are exspensive. Thats why I am waiting on the D44 for the gears.

 

[dreamr]

$1600 is a lot of accessories

That's my thought, but to tolerate 33 inch tires with 3.73 would be sad indeed.

Has anyone had the gears swapped out here in Western Washington? It
seems slightly difficult to find competitors bids.

2,150.00 Seems like a lot of money for gears and a rear e-locker. Now I know why most of the large 4x4's I have ridden in are gutless. The lift and tires is a heck of a lot cheaper than the gears.

Hmmm.. wonder if I can handle raising my monthly bills a bit with some more debt

 

[Buckshot]

I'm debating the ARB or a different locker too. Fron what I understand the ARB is 100% open or 100% closed. There are some from Detroit that are 100% closed and limited slip switchable. Thoughts?

Not to hijack, but it might be relevant with this question (and I want to know the answer too...)

Since there are multiple "switching" lockers available, what's the best one? All the searching of past threads shows is who thinks which brand is better for wheeling in the fully locked position. But these are switchers for a reason...any difference in the "non-closed" (all open, partially open, etc) settings of these different lockers?

 

[sk1er17]

Hmmm.. wonder if I can handle raising my monthly bills a bit with some more debt

Dont do it man. Im in debt up to my eyeballs because of modding. Acutally i was just about out of debt.. and then my engine blew up (i hydrolocked it hard twice -- more than 3000rpms to 0rpms in an instant) and that put my right back in debt.

3.73's might not be that bad for 33's. Hell i didnt feel a difference from stock to 33's with 4.10's. I say do the lift and tires first THEN decide if you reallly reallly really want to spend that money for gears (i presume you'll be purchasing a warn winch, custom winch mount, tube bumper for the rear to hold a 33" spare, and some hella's before putting those gears in )

 

[appx91]

I agree do the other stuff before gears. Thats what I have done and I don't regret it at all.

 

[ExplorerSportNu]

I have the 33's with 3.73's and mine is a feaking dog, I can't wait to get new gears I'm also curious about the locker topic here, wheres the locker info man at???

 

[stretch]

I have the 33's with 3.73's and mine is a feaking dog, I can't wait to get new gears I'm also curious about the locker topic here, wheres the locker info man at???

Would my 5.0 make a difference with the same set up (3.73's vs 33's)? Although I'll probably only get 32's for now. Just wanting to know if the extra power would help out or if it would still feel "slow"?

 

[sk1er17]

it would deffinetally help out. thats exactly the reason im fine with my 35's and 4.10's - but they're complaining about 3.73's and 33's.... i have the SOHC and they have the OHV. The V8 is deffinetally more torque(y) than the SOHC, especially at very low RPM's (hence me being slow at first, but as soon as my rpms get over 2K i speed right up)

 

[dreamr]

I say do the lift and tires first THEN decide if you reallly reallly really want to spend that money for gears (i presume you'll be purchasing a warn winch, custom winch mount, tube bumper for the rear to hold a 33" spare, and some hella's before putting those gears in )

LOL I was thinking something along those lines.