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Performance Upgrades - Maintenance - Modifications - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street Trucks. Covering the Explorer, ST, Sport, Lincoln Aviator, Sport Trac, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Aerostar. Featuring H.I. - Human Intelligence.
Body Work 101
How I addressed the Rust on the Ford
LD50 1st gen Rusty rocker panel bodywork - rockerpanel replacement
How To: Recover your Center Console (10 Steps)
Rear Door Vent Window Replacment
Getting those plastic trims back to OEM black with pics
How to: 1st Gen Gas Tank Fuel Pump Access Panel
How to: - Remove and replace door latch assembly
Custom colored ford emblems
List of Bodywork Resources on the Net
How to: Apply bed liner to your floor
What is the best Billet Grille? A guide to modding your front end!
Wiper motor shaving write up with pics
Bumper bracket / rail end how to
Creating with Fiberglass a Step by Step Guide by Drew Wilson
I just bought a 1997 Mountaineer AWD 5.0 v8. I was wondering what parts are interchangeable between the explorers of that generation and the mountaineer for example like tailights, headlights, grilles, that sort of thing.
Hello all, ISO a patch panel I saw years ago but cant seem to locate now. My Drivers rear quarter is rusted thru on my 96, the notorious rust above the fuel door along with the usual Mid West rust. I was looking a few years ago and saw folks buying 1st gen rear quarters, and a special tail light surround patch that would "convert" the quarter to fit a 2nd gen tail lamp assembly.
LMC Truck no longer shows window down rear quarters for 1st gen any more, or second gen for that matter, but I have seen them at Classic 2 Current, and Summit, Raybuck, to name a few. They range from $178-to $280 not including shipping.
So has anyone ever seen these tail-lamp-assembly surround patch panels? Even if they are discontinued maybe I can still...
I'm hoping someone can direct me to how to find the paint code used on the Exterior TRIM pieces. The base color code is on the door sticker, but I can't find the trim code used.
I am specifically talking about the trim parts used on Eddie B. vehicles like the gold aroud the wheel wells.
This is for my wife's EB Expedition which is white with the gold trim.
Any help is appreciated.
New member here! I bought this 2000 Explorer Sport from my little brother, who hydroplaned and went into a ditch. This is the only evidence of the experience.
I need suggestions on how to get this fixed! It won’t allow my truck to properly close and lock.
Any help and advice would be appreciated!
About 2 months ago I noticed some rust lines on the inside of my doors, almost near the bottom. It's about 1/2 inch from the inside bottom of the door, where there's a seam as the door sheet metal is folded over. On one door, the rust line is almost the length of the door, and on other doors, it's here-and-there, but always right on that seam.
The dealership told me the 5 year corrosion protection doesn't apply yet, because there's no actual perforation. They also said they've seen this before, but the rust hasn't penetrated to the "outside of the door" in the cases they've seen.
Any comments or experience with this? AND, suggestions on what I should do next? Seems like I should get this taken care of sooner than later...
Like many people, I had to do this project in my driveway with some basic tools. I have about $300 in the whole project, not including the tools. I bought full panels at $125 each on amazon. I have another $50 in paint, primer, rustproofing, undercoating (all aerosol spray cans). You can use something like duplicolor to match your paint color, but I chose to use a 2K epoxy aero primer with black chassis paint. It actually looks pretty good with the black plastic trim and its hard as nails.
Angle Grinder w/Cutting Wheel
Cordless Drill w/Wire Brush Attachments
Demo Bar, Chisel
Clamps, Vice Grips
Rivet Tool and Rivets
Rustproofing or Undercoating
Wet/Dry Sandpaper and Scuff Pads
Paint and Primer
Since this is a repair-related topic, but since there is much debate over if the windshield is part of the "body" or not (whereas repairing a windshield is or is not body work,) please move this thread if it is better suited to another Sub-Forum, thanks.
Since I've lately been curious about windshield replacements after hearing the EPA has given incentive to insurance companies to provide glass repair and replacement at little to no cost upfront, among other arrangements, due to landfill problems with auto glass, I thought I would make a thread where you can tell me / just discuss what policies you have and which ones work for you for your glass repair needs. Mine does not currently cover this whatsoever, so if I got a chip that cracked...
Resins come in many shapes and sizes. (and prices.)
What is your go-to or a few brands/products in particular you feel like are trustworthy and hold up long term for chip or crack repair? Have you ever had a repair done and asked the tech what resin they use? And does an average Joe just go buy the Harbor Freight Special "clear epoxy" and send it in those cracks, or should he just stick to a brand name like RainX or Permatex.
Which do you feel like stay clear the longest, and don't become hazy or opaque?
Feel free, also, to share kits or tools for glass/windshield repair you have had good or even bad results with.
how do you clean the backside of the butterfly valve on electronic Throttle body?
Can you force the butterfly valve to open?
I know you can buy TB cleaner and attached a small tube to the TB, and then spray it while the van is running.
I tried that in the past with the 3M, but it doesn't really clean the gunk completely.
Do I need to take the TB out to clean the backside?
2000 Explorer XLT 2WD 4.0L SOHC JOB1 Engine. I've searched all of the parts houses... and online... but I cannot find Door Striker Bushings for the front doors. Everyone has the "Part Number 38424" kit that contains 2 bushings that fit the rear hatch. Nobody has bushings that fit the front doors. The bushing are:
7/16” ID - 9/16” OD - 13/16” L
Who sells the? Thanks for your help.
Hey all. Hoping the community can help me figure out if its worth repainting my two door Sport.
Apologies as this turned into a long post. But wanted to give the full story on this rig so you all know how to evaluate it.
I'm trying to get an idea of cost for a repaint and if the increased value of the vehicle would be worth the painting cost.
So here are the details and backstory.
2000 Sport Premium
4.0L SOHC 4x4 (4.10 Gears)
Oxford White with Medium Titanium Metallic factory body kit
Light grey interior
Every option minus leather/sunroof
Back in 2001 I bought this as a low mileage salvage title vehicle. The damage was exclusively sheet metal; only reason I decided to buy it. Left fender door...
Color matched?! I'd say yeah. Under a perfect flash light, the aerosol base coat is mildly more purple. Under all other lighting, shes minty bud.
so, recently repainted and installed my new to me Moon Visor. All went well! For those of us doing DIY customizations or repairs to our Dark Lapis Metallic trucks, it appears it is harder than necessary to find an aerosol that matches or is even available. Thanks to the forum members I was able to get close to getting a reliable link to the color needed. There is an aerosol available (as pictured) that gets very close if not as close as you'd ever need called "Ford Dark Blue Metallic" by Duplicolor. It is available at auto parts stores like the one down the road that your second cousins...