Body Work & Detailing | Ford Explorer - Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations
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Body Work & Detailing

Waxing washing, wheel cleaning and body work. This is the place to discuss those topics.
Body Work 101 How I addressed the Rust on the Ford LD50 1st gen Rusty rocker panel bodywork - rockerpanel replacement How To: Recover your Center Console (10 Steps) Rear Door Vent Window Replacment Getting those plastic trims back to OEM black with pics How to: 1st Gen Gas Tank Fuel Pump Access Panel How to: - Remove and replace door latch assembly Custom colored ford emblems List of Bodywork Resources on the Net How to: Apply bed liner to your floor What is the best Billet Grille? A guide to modding your front end! Wiper motor shaving write up with pics Bumper bracket / rail end how to Creating with Fiberglass a Step by Step Guide by Drew Wilson
To begin Bondo is a product name for body filler. I am not a fan of Bondo products. I use Evercoat Rage Gold and Evercoat Metal Glaze. It is a far superior body filler.
• Got a 4-bar grill with no 'nostrils' (2007 Explorer XLT). • Buying a used 3-bar version with nostrils. • Want to cut out the three bars and replace with mesh. What's the best way to affix the mesh to the rest of the grill, cover up the holes, and get the finish as close to factory as possible? Current grill: The means: The GOAL:
About 2 months ago I noticed some rust lines on the inside of my doors, almost near the bottom. It's about 1/2 inch from the inside bottom of the door, where there's a seam as the door sheet metal is folded over. On one door, the rust line is almost the length of the door, and on other doors, it's here-and-there, but always right on that seam. The dealership told me the 5 year corrosion protection doesn't apply yet, because there's no actual perforation. They also said they've seen this before, but the rust hasn't penetrated to the "outside of the door" in the cases they've seen. Any comments or experience with this? AND, suggestions on what I should do next? Seems like I should get this taken care of sooner than later...
The light fixture on the top of my cab was broken with hail damage recently. When I ordered the part, it came with plug-in wiring. This is not the same as the wiring on the truck. I am not overly mechanical, but know how to do basic electrical. I tried to use the splicing pieces that you just put the wires side by side and squeeze it together, but it doesn't seem to work. Is it all right to cut the plug off and wire as I would originally with cutting the wires and splicing them together and good tape? To many of you this may sound basic, I'm just a little old man with no knowledge of mechanics. Thanks for your help
Does anyone know the going rates for rust repair and if the prices I've been quoted seem appropriate? This is for a 2008 4.6L V8 Limited with about 150k miles. I'm also located in Pennsylvania if that matters. Penndot loves to overly salt everything during the winter which I'm sure is the largest contributing factor. I've taken this to a local body shop that works with rust and I was quoted $1,707 to do the right rear quarter and wheel well. This includes cutting and welding in a new piece, cutting and welding new cross members underneath, and removing/replacing items like right rear glass, tail lamp, bumper, etc. Also includes cleaning, caulking, priming, and repainting to match the existing paint. Both of my rockers are also...
I have been practicing with my powdercoating system. So, today I thought I'd coat the wipers on my Wife's Nissan--might as well hit the ones on the Mounty also--
Does anyone know what these are and how to remove them? There are 6
What's yours? Favorite products? Methods? Etc. I like to give it a good soak to loosen everything up. Currently using Blue Coral wash and wax as it was a Christmas gift and it actually does a nice job. Usually like the meguiars gold class wash though. Always a microfiber mitt with a few passes on the car then spray it out to rid it of contaminants before dipping it back in the bucket and continuing to clean Every so often I use meguiars cleaner wax which really provides an extra step towards keeping the paint nice. I usually finish off with meguiars next generation tech wax 2.0 for a nice glossy finish. Interior is dusted with a swiffer cloth and microfiber towels are used to apply meguiars ultimate protectant to the dash and...
i was wondering if there might be a bolt in replacement for the rocker panels i was told there might be some for the 92 explorer, or if anyone has any ideas on how to fix the rust on the rockers would be great, i have so much rust there i may as well not have any rockers at all, lol, any help would be great thanks...
Wondering if anybody has ever figured out a way to hang a rear hatch on a 2nd gen without assistance. I'm considering hanging it via a pulley from the carport, using the winch running the line up to the carport and over the roof of the truck. Other suggestions or stories of what you have done?
I have seen some rear spoilers on various SUV's & I saw one on a Saleen Explorer on this forum. Anyone know where I might find one? Thnaks!
hey guys, i just got into an accident, and i bent my bumper a little. i dont feel like paying to get it fixed, so i want to pull it out straight so that my tires wont rub. i also need to know how hard it is to replace my 1/4 panel on the front driver side. any help would be great, thx.:redexp:
My 2021 Explorer Timberline came from the factory with black & chrome oval Ford emblems. Unfortunately my grill sustained some damage and the emblem is scratched. The problem is the auto repair shop ordered the part number listed for my vin and the only thing that comes up is the blue emblem. I have spoke with my local dealership, also the dealership I bought the vehicle from, Ford parts customer service, as well as Ford regular customer service and no one can figure out how to order the black emblems that are standard on the Timberline. Has anyone else had this problem and successfully been able to obtain the correct emblems for their Timberline?
Jon! (Turdle) I know you already know all of this but I found it interesting... and I thought you're powdercoating oven was big! LoL
2000 Explorer XLT 2WD 4.0L SOHC JOB1 Engine. I've searched all of the parts houses... and online... but I cannot find Door Striker Bushings for the front doors. Everyone has the "Part Number 38424" kit that contains 2 bushings that fit the rear hatch. Nobody has bushings that fit the front doors. The bushing are: 7/16” ID - 9/16” OD - 13/16” L Who sells the? Thanks for your help.
If your center console is ripped, falling apart, etc. it is really quite easy and inexpensive to just recover it yourself. Step One: Remove the three screws at the bottom of the lid. Step Two: Find a nice area to work on. Step Three: Flip the lid over and remove all the screws and remove the black pastic lid. Step Four: Remove all the staples currently holding the vinyl on. Step Five: Remove the vinyl from the armrest. Step Six: Spread old vinyl over your new vinyl and trace. Step Seven: Cut relief cuts near the front edges. Step Eight: Start on one side and staple the edge down. Then stretch over to the opposite side and staple again. Keep stretching to the opposite...