Got CE codes.. EGR related.. engine dies after about 15secs of idle

[srvblues00]

A CE light has been on for a while now, and today I finally had time to work with it and see what was going on. Today I came back from the gas station, and as I pulled into the parking lot behind my dorm, I put the clutch in, and my X died!! Luckily, there was a spot pretty close by and I was able to coast it in. I checked fuel pressure at the rail, and that's fine. I then tried to start it back up. It did start, idled for about 15 to 20 seconds, and then died as if I turned it off with the key. I plugged in my code reader, and here's what I got:

Hard codes
335 - Pressure Feedback EGR (PFE) sensor or EGR Pressure Transducer (EPT) - signal voltage higher or lower than expected.

Continuous Memory Codes
327 - EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor, Pressure Feedback EGR (PFE) sensor or EGR Pressure Transducer (EPT) - signal voltage too low.
332 - Insufficient EGR flow

I am thinking I will replace the EGR valve and see if that clears up anything. Then, if that doesn't work, I'll start replacing sensors. Why in the heck would the engine not run? Even if the EGR is bad, it should still at least run, right? Oh, I did check for spark, and we're good there. Any ideas?

 

[srvblues00]

Anyone?

 

[kps36]

Hey Catamount, do a search on DPFE sensor (the one that controls the EGR valve. Mine (the one at WCU..son) have the 332 and 335 codes and it was the DPFE sensor. Easy to do.

 

[Ozzy1234]

I agree, DPFE sensor would have to do with all of those problems. At the dealership they are about $70, I'm not saying that's where you should get it. Should take no more than 10 minutes to replace.

 

[kps36]

In Cullowhee there aren't alot of options. Only the NAPA in Sylva...LOL right Stevie Ray ?

 

[srvblues00]

Originally posted by kps36
In Cullowhee there aren't alot of options. Only the NAPA in Sylva...LOL right Stevie Ray ?

Ain't that the truth! The Napa here sucks - half of the employees have no idea what's going on. They are helpful if you get the right person. The CarQuest in Sylva is great, as long as you don't buy any CQ gaskets. Usually between Napa, CarQuest, and the Ford dealer, I can get most stuff fixed.

 

[srvblues00]

I think I pretty much have it narrowed down to the DPFE or the EGR vaccum regulator. I checked the EGR valve itselt, and it's ok.. diaphram works fine. I unpluged the vacuum lines from the EGR valve itself as well as the vacuum regulator, and I plugged the lines. This basically disables the regulator. After doing this, the engine runs great, idles correctly, accelerates normal, and there are no CE lights. Today I plugged the regulator back up, reset the computer, and fired it up. It idled about 15 seconds, and died.

Would this indicate a bad EGR vacuum regulator?

 

[kps36]

EGR vacuum regulator ? Not sure what that is.
The DPFE controls the opening/closing of the EGR valve. I don't see anything in between the DPFE and the EGR valve proper (the UFO). If/when you get the DPFE, make sure you get the 2 hoses also. I had to cut mine off, they were gunked up and became one with the EGR tube. Good Luck and stay dry today !

 

[srvblues00]

Originally posted by kps36
EGR vacuum regulator ? Not sure what that is.
The DPFE controls the opening/closing of the EGR valve. I don't see anything in between the DPFE and the EGR valve proper (the UFO). If/when you get the DPFE, make sure you get the 2 hoses also. I had to cut mine off, they were gunked up and became one with the EGR tube. Good Luck and stay dry today !

Trace the vacuum line from the EGR valve itself back, and you should end up at the regulator. The regulator has 1 electrical connection/harness on it, and 2 vacuum lines to it. I'll post a picture of it soon.

 

[kps36]

That's the DPFE. When you get one make SURE you copy the part number off of the DPFE 'plate' (as you described) this makes a diff in the elec connector. The 95 EX ends in AA, the 95 Ranger ends in BB, looks the same, buts the Rangers cost MUCH less.

 

[srvblues00]

Ok, I just got some pics of the EGR vacuum regulator..

egrvr01.jpg
egrvr02.jpg

The regulator is not attached righ tnow. I have the bracket unbolted, and I am holding it my hand. It's bracket bolts to the intake manifold.

 

[kps36]

Well i'll be damned. I did not notice that on my 95. I still think it is prolly the DPFE...oh well, I gotta check that out next time I see my truck..LOL

 

[srvblues00]

Ok, get this.. An hour or so ago, I got in the X and was going to drive to the other side of campus to pick up a friend, and then we were going to go to the Ford dealer. I got about 50 feet up the road, and the X just died on me. I pulled out of the main lane and into a turning lane and stopped. It wouldn't start back. The cop came and blocked traffic so I could roll it (backwards) back down to Scott and into a parking spot. So now it's parked and out of the way, but it won't run. I called my friend and we went in his truck to the Ford dealer, and I talked to the dude at the parts department for a while. After talking with him, I had remembered that I noticed the other day that my heater core was bad and the passenger side floorboard and carpet was a bit damp. The parts guy said to be sure to check the computer.. there may coolant in the electrical contacts. I just pulled the computer out, but I can't really tell if it's had liquid in it or not. I'm going to clean it up and put some grease in the contacts to block any future coolant. I am also going to try to check fuel pressure and fuel pressure regulator. Other than that, I'm pretty much out of ideas. This is really puzzling...

 

[kps36]

Get some CRC electrical cleaner and spray down the contacts w/it...works wonders.
good luck.

 

[srvblues00]

Just greased the computer contacts.. I have fuel, and I have spark (although it is a little weak, but it may be the battery is starting to get weak from trying to crank it). I haven't checked air, but I don't see how it could not be getting air. What else can I check for? I'm out of ideas..

 

[TPLYNCH]

You can't even get it to "bump" start w/the 5 speed? Crank position sensor could be the culprit.

 

[srvblues00]

Originally posted by TPLYNCH
You can't even get it to "bump" start w/the 5 speed? Crank position sensor could be the culprit.

Interesting that you say that! When my friend and I changed the lower intake gasket, we disconnected teh crank position sensor in order to move a large bundle of wires out of the way. We just checked it a bit ago, and we did get it plugged back in, etc.

 

[kps36]

Strange this all happened at the same time. Did you have the 'regulator' disconnected from the engine? If so, did you put it back on and try again ? I would think if it was the CPS (crank sensor) you would not have even gotten out of the parking lot. I would check any vacuum lines, around where the 'regulator was/is, and any connections that may have dropped off.
Not related to EGR but this sounds like what I went through w/Ranger and the IAC, NOT SAFE ! My son parked it after 3 stall outs in traffic......
I'm at a loss, but good luck...lots of rain up there yesterday and today.
let us know.

 

[srvblues00]

Here's a summary of everthing so far.. latest stuff at the bottom:

Heater core is leaking right now, possibly onto computer wiring harness

Cleaned and greased computer harness (to prevent future liquid from coming in contact on the harness/pins).

Checked fuel pressure... seems ok. I don't know what PSI, but it should definatley be enough to at least idle.

I can hear fuel pump running when KOEO

Checked spark, although it seems weak at the coil pack, and when we look at a plug when firing, it looks pretty weak as well.

Compression check … around 140psi

Cleaned air filter

All vacuum lines have been checked..looked ok

Everything is plugged up in the correct locations

Checked resistance and voltage to the TPS... within range

Checked voltage to MAF… within range

Checked coil pack voltage.. got around 11.7 volts

Checked coil pack secondary resistance, but was 2.5K ohms over spec (supposed to be 11.5 or lower; we got 13.5)

Spark plugs looked fine

I am pretty sure the EGR vacuum regulator is bad, but that should not prevent the Explorer from starting.

Right now when I plug in the code reader and turn the key to KOEO, it does not begin any tests, and it does not spit out any codes.

Tonight we tried about 3 times to get it to bump start.. 1st gear, 2nd gears, and reverse. Nothing each time.. dead as a brick.

I am starting to think that my computer might be toast. That would explain why it does absolutely nothing at KOEO when I plug the code reader in.

 

[kps36]

figured it out ?