Grinding from rear only when coasting

[BrianDye]

So, bad noise #4 ,078,648,331 if i'm not mistaken in the few months of ownership of this damn thing.

I was driving home tonight, when I got on the highway (It could've happened before, but I had the radio up, there was snow/ice on the road so it was loud and rough as-is) I felt this bumping while driving, and the best way I can describe it, is like I had ran over a screw or bolt with quite a large head. Its happened before, so I can say its almost identical to that noise and slight feeling.

I kind of brushed it off for a few miles as maybe some of the giant puddles I had ran through on my way to work froze on the undercarriage/wheels and is causing some noise/vibrations. But it seemed to kind of go away under certain circumstances. Turning left, it would disappear. Turning right it would get 10x worse.

It got to the point where I decided to pull over on the highway shoulder and use my phones flashlight to check any obvious visible damage/tire wear etc. Couldn't see anything. So when I accelerated back onto the highway, I noticed it was gone. As SOON as I let off the throttle and was up to speed, BAM there it was again. Wtf.

As I got closer to home, it seemed to be a little less intense, but there nonetheless. I rolled my windows down in my neighborhood and when I would coast, I could hear this nasty grinding/scraping sound. Not loud at all, almost the same sound as like when your brakes have some surface rust on them. When I would lightly hit the brakes, it was still there, but if I really stepped on them, then it would go away. (I would think if it was brakes, it would've went away with a light press of the pedal, right?)

What the hell could it be? (Its 5am, and 20 degrees outside right now, otherwise id be able to investigate a little more)

So glad I just dropped $600 on upper control arms when (in my head) i'm preparing to hear some terrible news about my trans or differentials or some expensive ass repair that I am not comfortable doing and will have to goto a shop.

 

[Rcflyer330]

Check the rear diff for leaks and check fluid level and condition to see if there is any water in the fluid. I had a noise kinda like this and I ended up being the rear diff.

 

[BrianDye]

Did you have to replace it or just change the fluid? I've been wanting to change all the fluids anyways but it's bitter cold outside, and my damn torsion bar just broke so I can't open my garage

 

[Rcflyer330]

Well I my case It was a bad axle seal and i never noticed a fluid spot on the ground. It ended bad with tow to the shop and a complete replacement of the diff including the case. Basicly the bearing blew apart and went through the gears destroying them the the ring gear practally rubbed through the case nothing was reuseable except maby the cover.

I just noticed your in michigan and this weather where are having its getting anoying.

 

[BrianDye]

Oh joy. Hopefully whatever it is is minor otherwise I'm gonna be vehicle-less for a good amount of time. Really pisses me off, I only ever have issues when we have **** weather. Can't even go outside and look into it more because it pouring rain and is probably 25 degrees with the windchill.

I really really really am sick of this weather. I used to love snow growing up, but back in those days we had hot Summers, nice Autumns, snowy Winters, and warm Springs. Now this bitter cold for 2/3rds of the year is really getting to me.

 

[BrianDye]

So differentials/axles/gears are foreign to me. Very foreign.

When I turned left, the noise basically was gone. All was smooth. When I turned right, it became very apparent and aggressive. Almost sounds like it could be a drivers side rear bearing, huh?

Im going to go outside, drive around the block and record a video. Its lightly raining but hopefully it'll be audible.

 

[BrianDye]

The video couldn't really focus on the sound, it was picking everything up but.

The noise is nasty, seems to happen at least over 10-15mph and its like almost a bounce if that makes any sense. Like the noise goes with the tire rotation speed, and the whole Explorer seems to bounce a tad as if the road was bumpy. I don't drive on that road too often, but I don't think its rough like that. Then when im coming to a stop/coast as if im turning onto another street or something, thats when the grinding/scraping noises happen. Seems to be coming from the drivers side, but I cannot be certain. Nobody else home right now to help me pinpoint it.

It shifts fine, and smooth though, no clunking. If it was the gears or differential, wouldn't there be some more adverse side effects like bad shifts or clunks of some sort?

Like I said, yesterday on my way to work I hit quite a few nasty potholes (Roads were 1/2 flooded so you couldn't see whats what) and then coincidentally leaving work its acting up. I think I could have possibly ended the life of the rear wheel bearings which I think were on their way out as it was. (Back when I did my fronts, I still noticed some groaning certain days, which I was convinced was the rear bearings)


I cant afford to have a shop do the work, whatever it may be. Im already thinking worst case scenario, as I always do. It seems like rear differentials are about $500 on eBay, it seems like the easiest thing to do would be to buy a used one, rebuild(?) it and then swap it out? Since the 4th gen is IRS, the problem would be either the diff, rear wheel bearings, or half shafts, right?

 

[StevenStebo]

There is a TSB on dragging calipers. I had to replace my front, and the rears still drag a little, no noise...

 

[BrianDye]

But the noise doesn't stop until I hit the brakes hard. I've had a few vehicles that had dragging calipers before which was a similar noise, but with the slightest bit of pressure on the pedal, it would stop. This keeps going even while braking unless I'm braking hard enough to stop.

 

[BrianDye]

Okay, I said f-it and went out in this blistering cold/wind/rain and jacked the back up. Started on the drivers side (Actually, didnt do the passenger yet, but im going to) and as I was jacking it up, I would hear the relief of what im assuming is the wheel bearing.

Jacked it up enough to get the tire off the ground and can easily move it about probably 1cm in every direction (left/right or pushing on the top and bottom)

Thats gotta be a wheel bearing, right? RockAuto has Timken bearings and hub assy's for about $100 each. Gonna do both no matter what, as I always replace in pairs. But do I need JUST the bearing, or should I also replace the hub with it as well?

And what kind of shop do I take it to for them to press the new bearing in? (I assume I only need the new one pressed in, right? Isn't the bearing part of the hub and the old hub would have the old bearing in it? Or no?

 

[Rcflyer330]

wheel bearing was the other thing i was going to suggest but never did. the rear bearing you only need the bearing as long as the hub is not damaged. if i where replacing them i would get the bearing and hub. here a a video by EricTheCarGuy on a 2004 explorer but is is basically the same https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvUzMwisLXU

 

[BrianDye]

I really want to replace the hub with it, but it just suits my budget to avoid that right now if I can. What damage should I check for in the hub? The bearings alone are A LOT cheaper obviously.


What brands do you guys reccomend? Timkin? Moog? those seem to be the two most expensive on RockAuto

Watching that video right now, he reminded me about the opposite side wheel bearing of which way you turn blah blah, when I turn left, the noise goes away...when I turn right, the noise gets bad. Did he say that backwards?

 

[BrianDye]

Jesus...it didnt look like a bad job at first but the farther I get into this video makes me really think how hard this is gonna be. I dont have anywhere near the tools he does, nor do I have the damn lift or that fancy thingy he used to separate the hub from the knuckle or whatever that was. He also mentioned about being concerned with the hub where the bearing sits if theres any damage to replace it. I think im just going to be safe and order the hub AND bearings.

 

[BrianDye]

Found a website that tells you "average" repair costs for basically whatever job you can imgagine. Shows shops near me parts and labor anywhere from $260 to about $400. Thats not bad considering my parts alone hub/bearings are about $200. Wondering if I should buy them for the shop to use, so I dont get some cheap no-name **** installed.

 

[Rcflyer330]

If you do buy the parts yourself then take it to a shop most shops will not warrenty the parts and labor. For bearing brand its a topic, like what moter oil is the best, you will get many answers for. I prefer timkin bearings. The rears are ha590259k with hubs I would contact your local autoparts store and ask the price. When I was replacing the fronts, the parts guy had the wrong part number, and I was quoted $55 or $75 for timkin rear bearings with the hub.

And in the video he had that right if the noise gets louder turning to the right its the left and the opposite is true too. It hase to do with the forces on the bearing and vehicle.

 

[BrianDye]

Yeah I'm gonna call the local shop (there's two close to my house, both get rave reviews) and see what they'll charge. This kills me to pay someone to do the work, but I really don't have the time right now, and need it done ASAP. Plus I have the daunting task of installing my lift in the next week or two so I'm really not looking forward to adding anymore work.

Plus I figure the shop will usually inspect everything related to what they're doing and could give me some insight on the rest of the rear end while it's in there.

 

[BrianDye]

Plus with the parts, I'd rather not have to wait. Hoping the shop can get it in tomorrow and start. Found a ride to work until Friday so I really need it done by Thursday.

 

[BrianDye]

Wow...$680 is the absolute cheapest I was quoted.

Ford dealer: $1100+
Place by me, Pauls or something it's called: $680~
Firestone: $800+

was really expecting a shop to get it done for $450 or less. That was above the HIGH side on that estimation calculator thing I tried.

 

[BrianDye]

They're gonna take a look/inspect it around 2:30 he said, and then call me to let me know what it needs and he said both wheel bearings would definitely be done before 4 tomorrow when I leave for work.

 

[BrianDye]

She's done. Picked her back up yesterday morning. $720 later, im back in business.

It in fact was just the rear bearing(s). I am going to go and say they were both bad, and HAD been bad since I bought the Explorer about 8 months ago. I replaced my fronts shortly after ownership. Still sometimes had noise, but just brushed it off, it was so minor.

After getting it back, it seriously is like driving a new car. Not necesarily new lol, but theres no drag now, it accelerates better, coasts better. When I pulled out of the lot, I was amazed at how easy it just went. Even before the bearing actually was shot and broke, they were causing so much resistance.

He told me that I better be glad I didnt try working on these, as it took their huge 60 ton press to barely press the old bearings out. He said the 60 ton was starting to flex.

And to think I was looking at buying a 6 ton for home use...was gonna buy it and try the job myself. LOL.