Had TCC issues, but let's back up... Or not | Ford Explorer Forums

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Had TCC issues, but let's back up... Or not

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March 20, 2016
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City, State
Western NY
Year, Model & Trim Level
02 Explorer xls
Just over a month ago, I posted a thread about having issues get getting my TCC to lock, coupled with the OD light and a 741 code. I took my other vehicle out of town for a couple weeks, came back, and figured I'd drive the explorer until something went wrong, and shop for a tranny in the mean time.

During that time, aside from a light flashing, everything has seemed just fine. Shifting was smooth and timely. No noises. No lack of power. Everything seemed fine except not having lockup in OD... until yesterday.

Driving to the greenhouse, I felt a slip and grab. But immediately after, it was fine and it kept going without issue. I parked in the parking lot, went in, came out, and started it up. It immediately lunged forward as if I just put it in gear. Ok, maybe I just fell off the pawl, since I was on somewhat of an incline. Put it in reverse to back out, no "reverse lunge". I go to back up, let go of the brake and immediately start moving forward. Shift back to park, then back to reverse, same thing. Cycle through the gears... Park, move forward until the pawl catches. Reverse, move forward. Neutral, move forward. Drive, move forward. Low gears, all the same. Except... I've never noticed before, because I never use it, but my selector won't go to 1. PRND32.... and it won't go into 1. But maybe that's normal? Don't know, but if not normal, maybe related.

So I turned the vehicle off while in neural, and pushed myself out of the parking spot. Go through the gears again, same thing. Decided to just try to get where I'm going. Put it in drive, take off, goes just fine, as if nothing is wrong.

Later on, I tried neural. Still the same. But I found that neural will only go through first gear, won't shift higher. Switch to drive, and it works fine. Goes through all gears, first through overdrive just fine. Smooth, timely shifts. No noises, no smells, no shakes, no power loss, nothing weird.

Seized clutches? Linkage issue? Something in the valve body? I'm stumped. I found a 73k trans for $450. I may be having to go get it in the morning. If I do go get it... any recommendations on checking or updating anything in it while it's out of the vehicle?

Thank you x hundreds
 



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I usually find that the forward clutches have seized together when this happens, but this usually causes a bind up in reverse.

If in reverse it pulls forward without any resistance it might be worth pulling the pan off and checking the manual valve, it could be disconnected. This wont be the fix for the TCC code though.

It wont shift when trying to drive in neutral because the MLPS switch is telling the computer you are in neutral.
 






Thanks much! I think I'll be pulling the pan tomorrow
 






Still haven't pulled it. Trying to line up a place I can get it elevated somewhat rotor being in the rain.

But as you mentioned, reverse.. No, it doesn't seem to fight in reverse at all.

Any info on what I should be looking for? I had the pan off last month. One of my helpers said that he did notice what he said was a stuck valve.

Possible manual valve issue. Possible other sticking valve. TCC unlocking... could this all just mean I need a new valve body?

Also... the gear selector not wanting to go to the 1 position... is there no 1 position or is that an indication that there's something blocked?
 






This pin has to be indexed into the manual valve like this, if this is not connected properly it can cause your all forward and the no manual low situation.

This connection typically won't disconnect on its own unless the pin is broken off or the big nut is loose on the linkage. This condition happens when people reinstall the valve body and miss the valve.

This will not be the cause of the no lock up situation. The problem with the converter could be the TCC solenoid or a stuck valve or a broken spring in the valve body, it also could be a failed converter.

So it might be worth it to remove the valve body and check it over, also notice any debris in the pan, if there is a excessive amount the tranny may just need to be rebuilt.



5r55e Manual valve.jpg
 






Thank you.

When I had the pan down last month, I didn't notice much debris. Certainly no chunks, just typical steel dust.

I'm trying to consider my options, assuming this isn't just a simple fix:
·I can rebuild, but a rebuild kit, plus valve body, plus solenoid pack, plus converter... I'm probably over the cost of a remanufactured transmission with a warranty.
·I can replace used.. But the 5r55w is getting harder and harder to find. I've found a couple, but they have as many miles as mine. No thanks. I can find plenty odd 5r55s units with good miles. But I can not find a single conclusive source that can verify whether or not that swap is problematic. If I have to get the PCM, I can. But I'm not sure that'll be enough.
 






Just dropped the pan. It was as I hoped it would be. Manual valve was disconnected. The selector shaft (unfamiliar with the actual name) is able to slide in and out. It must have slid outward while in drive.

I now have to figure out how to prevent this from happening again. I'll start another thread on this topic.
 






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