Handbrake a mystery

[Brit Explorer]

Hi folks,

Took my X into the local "Ford Specialist" today to have the handbrake adjusted. Unfortunately the mechanic wasn't able to help - he said the handbrake seemed to operate inside the disk and that it was only operating on half the disk, he didn't know how to make it work!

Anyone got any ideas what he's talking about and how you go about getting these handbrake's to work effectively? Mine has always been a bit iffy since I bought her.

Thanks in advance for your help!

- Andy.

 

[Opera House]

Maybe it only is half a brake

The emergency brakes are drum brakes on the rear. I just had to redo mine a couple of weeks ago on my 97. When I pulled the rotor/drum and only a couple of small pieces of brake material were left floating around. None still bonded to the brake shoes. The friction material is only bonded to the shoe with epoxy. There are no additional rivits for strength. When the shoes start to rust the brake material delaminates. Other side had missing pieces too. I and most others never use them so they just go bad just because they get old. Many stores don't even stock the parts. It won't be a cheap fix.

 

[Howard]

Hi Andy another brit owner here.

If it just wants adjustment then there is a oblong rubber bung at the bottom of the rear back plate. Under that there is a star adjuster wheel. The manual says to tighten till locked and then back off eight clicks. To get at the shoes you have to remove the rear discs a very easy job.

Hope this helps

Howard

PS If you realy get stuck then I'm only just up the road and would be willing to do the job for you.

 

[Brit Explorer]

Thanks both - useful stuff and I'll take these posts along to the dealer next time she's in for some work.

Howard - Thanks very much for your kind offer, as I say, I'll get the local chaps to take a look first, but if they still seem to be clueless I may have to look you up!

This is obviously what the internet was made for!

Cheers all.

- Andy.

 

[Howard]

Best of luck.

No doublt I will hear from you soon!!!!!

 

[vbtruk]

Hi Howard, before i strt i just wanted to say that i have looked closely at the rear vent system and i have decided that i wont do it, thanks for all your help and pics. Ford here were prepared to order the parts with there next shipping but i dont think i could get it to work the way the factory intended.
Anyway the parking brake rear shoes, i need to replace mine and was wondering what tools i need to do this???
THanks Again.

 

[Howard]

Only basic tools required. Torque wrench for the wheel bolts (tighten to 100lbs/sqft) basic socket set,pliers and a large screwdriver to slip the buggers into place. The springs are tight with not much room behind the axle flange. All the best.

PS. I like my rear vents at last my dog (in the back) gets air on her face.

 

[vbtruk]

Thanks howard i would love to put the vents in but i just know it would annoy the crap out of me if it weren't right.
so i wouldn't need a set of brake shoes tools or anything? in the haynes it says to get special pliers and stuff????
Ford seems to be the only ones here who sell them and they want $300 for the brake shoes kit but i found another mob who can rebind my current brake shoes, bassicaly i bring in my current brake shoes and they clean off the old crap and rebind a new set of brake material to the shoe and it will only cost $35 for all four!!!!
so my question is will i have to get new springs and all that jazz or can i just get the brake shoes rebound and use all the existing springs to put them back in????
Thanks

 

[Howard]

You should not need new springs etc (as long as they are not broken of course). I managed to change mine in under 20 mins /side and that includes various *** breaks with coffee. They are just like the old fasioned mini brakes with the manual adjuster. Back off the adjuster fully before you put the disc back on and lock them up fully then back off for the adjustment. Clean all the dirt and dust out. Don't use any grease/lubricant it just turns the dust into grinding paste.

PS Andy did you get yours sorted out?

 

[vbtruk]

Thanks Howard i'll let you know next week

 

[Jon Burns]

For Howard:

Hi Howard

I seem to remember you giving out a phone number for a good source for US parts in the UK. I'm going to need some bits in the near future and as I've just paid out for the hand brake kit (I really don't want to repeat that little experience) could you put it out again please?
Oh and BTW I believe you were indeed correct about the rear only air ride system.

TTFN

Jon Burns

 

[Howard]

Jon

The name of the company is Usautomotive tel (01234) 273155 web site Dead Link Removed .

Ok


PS there you go with the air shocks!!!!

 

[Brit Explorer]

Hi Howard,

....no not sorted the handbrake out yet, my troublesome Explorer LPG conversion + some "fettling" on my TVR is taking up my spare car tinkering time at present....

I'll get there though.

Cheers,

- Andy.

 

[Howard]

Andy

I had heard about problems with LPG on the x. Something about the plastic intake manifold. I hope they get it sorted for you.

All the best.

PS. Thanks for the flag Rick....

 

[Brit Explorer]

Hi again Howard,

Please tell me more! I have had the vehicle converted to dual fuel LPG and have had nothing but trouble since with the car stalling (a real pain on an auto!). It's been back to the converter umpteen times and they seem somewhat lost as to what the problem is. If there's a known problem I'd love to hear about it so I can pass on the details?

What more do you know about the plastic intake problem????

Cheers for your help again,

- Andy.

 

[Howard]

As I understand it there are several different systems and not all are suitable for the explorer.

Quote

What of the problem of backfire?

All single point (venturi) converted vehicles running on LPG can potentially backfire - some engines are much worse than others – this usually results from an ignition or valve fault.

The effects of a backfire vary with vehicle type – sometimes passing with little more than a pop, but it can cause damage on some vehicles, usually those fitted with plastic inlet manifolds, air-filter housings or delicate airflow meters.

Notably bad examples include 4.6 V8 Range-Rovers, Subaru's and some later Peugeot's & Citroen's – with such known vehicles we will advise fitting direct-gas injection systems – albeit at a higher price!

With these systems the risk of backfire is zero – but in most cases the higher power and reliability comes at the expense of economy – even the best current systems will return 25% less mpg than petrol . . but the fuel is less than half the price!

end

quote

IF YOU GAS THE EXPLORER MAKE SURE WHAT IS BEING FITTED IS A GOOD QUALITY MULTI-POINT SYSTEM DO NOT FIT A SINGLE POINT SYSTEM
Basically a single point system will in the end have a backfire resulting in a new inlet manifold for you, maybe not immediately but it will happen manifolds are around £800+vat they are made very very poorly and will if not already have inlet leaks leading to weak mixture and expensive backfire
If you use a multi-point system you cant have backfires!!!
the closest result is a misfire no real major problem
any lpga approved installer in the north should be able to give you a good and reliable service
expect to pay somewhere around £1800+vat anything less and you will be getting single-point if this is too expensive buy another car or DON'T GAS IT!!!!!

end

Just a few that I could find. As a lot of SOHC owners know the bottom 'O' rings very often leak and this will cause havoc with LPG systems.

Hope this helps.

 

[Brit Explorer]

Cheers Howard,

I'll pass this on to my installer incase - my conversion cost circa £2.5K though and is the latest multi-point system (apparently) designed for the Explorer.

The issue I have is stalling in certain driving conditions, I've never had a back/misfire on her. The stalling is a real problem because with the autobox you have to physically stop the vehicle moving and select "park" before restarting, rather than just dipping a clutch and away you go whilst still rolling.

Thanks for all your help and advice, I'll let you know how it goes.

- Andy

 

[vbtruk]

HI Howard well turns out i didn't need to change them after all as they were a little cracked but still 2.2 mm thick and my concern was simply tightening the handbrake, but my query is if i did need to change the park brake shoes do i need to take off the plate that has the nuts that holds the wheel on and if so what is the tool called for this???
so with the rotor on i went in behind the whell plate and used a screwdriver to turn the little wheel all the way in and half a turn off is this right???
will it be to tight when driving and wear them out???
Thanks Howard.

 

[Howard]

To change them all you need to do is remove the disc. As for tightening the book says adjust to fully tight and back off eight clicks. In other words fully lock the wheel to align the shoes and then back off so that they just don't rub.

 

[MICHAEL PARKER]

HOWARD

Nice info on the rear brakes, I think i will have a look at mine , the handbrake has never worked well.
Having a single point LPG conversion i do agree with what you are saying, but there is a very simple solution to the backfire problems....Remove the clip that holds the hose to the manifold that goes to the brake servo,
When a backfire strikes the hose is blown off the intake and as the backfire only happens when starting you wont need the brakes power assisted.
As for the running problems ,i had 4 months of stalling and loss of power, this was an installation problem.
the hot water supply has to be taken from the correct place & the venturie plate has to be the correct one , i had 3 types fitted before one was found to work ok.
I dont notice the small lack of power 4 ltrs has plenty to go around.
On my monthly budget i could not affort to run it on petrol