has anyone ever heard of this problem!? | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

has anyone ever heard of this problem!?

You can start with a full tune up, including PCV valve, fuel filter and sea foam. With that many miles, It's probably due for a good tune anyway. Pay attention to the old plugs if anything looks unusual about them or if one is white while the others are brown etc. Do a compression test and do the 3000 RPM vacuum test. Disconnect the EGR valve, plug the vac hose, and take it for a test drive to see if the problem comes back. It will throw a code but will run OK without it for one trip. This will tell you if your EGR controls are making the engine misbehave. Go over all vac hoses with a fine tooth comb, replacing any that are hard, cracked or loose. Clean the MAF and the IAC. Check the TPS. (these items have stickies or threads, do a forum search)

After all of this, disconnect the battery for 10 minutes, hook it back up then take it for a drive. Reread the codes and go from there. I know some of this was already mentioned.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





Your Cat. isn't plugged up, right?
 






Mike change the plug wires as well.

When I had some weird crap go on with my Ex it turned out to be the plug wires were shot. Since you don't know when they were last changed and the vehicle has a lot of miles on it, I would definitely change the plug wires.
 






if my cat was clogged, is it true that exhaust wouldn't be coming out? and if it was, wouldn't my problem be happening ALL the time?
anyways, there is exhaust coming out, and it only happens after i let the truck idle for a little.
i pulled my spark plugs, they look like ass.
i looked up motorcraft plugs and wires, and all together it's about $50..
i'll go for it with my next pay check.. just made the car insurance payment.. hahaha.
i'm hoping that the new pcm i bought will magically cure my problem. heh.
anyways, thanks for the tips!
unfortunately i can't check the compression or vacuum or anything.. ahh.
i'll start with the tune up and pcm. if that doesn't work, i'll get into other things
 






With older Explorers (any vehicle) the oil burnt in the cylinders goes out the exhaust and into the cats. They typically burn the stuff off, but at an idle (stopped) they can re-plug until you get them hot enought (rpms up, flowing) to make them burn off again.

On mine, it would start to act up after a while trail riding, where we were idling over a bunch of stuff to keep speeds down.

I'd still be checking that and the fuel first.
 






^^^
I'm with him.
They will clog/unclog. They don't always just stay clogged/blocked.
 






It could have something to do with fuel injectors, too. Mine had a similar problem for a long time, then it just started missing all the time. Turned out I had a dead injector. Replaced it, everything is fine.
 






one of my possible solutions is a crankshaft position sensor.
it's $35.. anyone know if it sucks to take out/put in?
for some reason, i have a feeling it's the root of my problems...
aside from that,
i replaced the spark plugs and wires today with new motorcraft ones. the previous ones were old as dirt, and it seems to have more power now, but still the same issue as before. thanks for all the tips guys, i appreciate it!
 






The CPS is relatively easy to replace, jut look at the front of your crank were the balancer is mounted, there are grooves in the back of the balancer that make the CPS give a tone to the computer. It is usually on the top passenger side ( I believe) of the crank. In any case is it the only sensor that reads off the balancer. You'll see it, but it can be tough to get in there if you have fat hands :D
 






replaced the crank sensor 2 days ago! took about a half hour. i don't have fat hands.. but i don't have rubber arms! XD

aaaanyways. im pretty sure my problem is fixed!!
the day i replaced it, i drove a pretty good distance. stopped at a red light and my problem started happening. i continued driving, and it went away. haven't had it happen since!
is it possible that the pcm had to adjust to the new sensor? or the sensor had to locate the uneven gap in the teeth on the balancer?
the real test will be driving to my dads next weekend. we'll see how that goes!!
thanks for all the help everyone!
 






Hey Mike...

I'm not a tech of any sort, those guys that responded know their stuff! I only recommend that since you're going on a long drive, try changing gasoline and using a fuel additive/cleanser. Fords tend to act up if you don't use the same type of fuel consistently - that's been my experience. What type of gas do you use? Which company?
 






i get whatever is the cheapest!! haha
we're at $3/gallon here in MA!
if i ever have crazy problems, i'll remember that.
went for the longest drive i've ever gone tonight, no problems!
i can't believe after all of that, it was a $35 crankshaft position sensor. wow.
the old one was pretty rusty and the electrical connector had some corrosion on it, it's no wonder why it wasn't working correctly! i'm changing my ect sensor hoping to get some better gas mileage. pray for me! haha :D
 






where did you get your crankshaft sensor at?
 






should be able to pick them up at any local parts store Autozone has them online for about $20 for my engine.
 






so after everything i found out the fuel pump was no good and that the fuel pressure regulator was leaking and had been disconnected. the problem with my truck is that it can't hold fuel pressure after running for so long. could this be solely caused by the regulator? or is my pump REALLY bad also? if i'm going shopping for a fuel pump, should i get the pump alone, or the entire assembly?
thanks
 






I'd start with the regulator, then move to the pumps.

When it comes to fuel pumps, new doesn't always mean better... You need a pump that is manufactured with the correct pumping rate, something that the Autozone house brand has failed to demonstrate for me on at least 10 occaisions. Stick with a name brand, or preferably, factory pump for best results on Ford fuel injected vehicles. They are fairly critial as to pump output and pressure.
 






Featured Content

Back
Top