Head gasket kit or replace it by itself?

[RammaR]

It looks like I'm going to be replacing the head gaskets next weekend, but there are several different options.

There are complete install kits, like:
Fel Pro HIS9081PT
and
Fel Pro HS9081PT

or there are single gaskets like:

Fel Pro 9083PT - old design?
and
Fel Pro 9725PT-2

I should probably replace the bolts as well. I'm leaning towards the kit, which would let me change the lower intake gasket as well. Has anyone used these or have a recommendation?

Thanks

 

[shamaal]

I used the kit and bought good valve cover gaskets separate and through awy the cork. When I toted up the cost, the kit was cheaper. You must replace the bolts, they are torque to yield and not reusable. Get the kit with the valve stem seals. Change the injector orings, use oil to lube. Use plenty of PB blaster on the exhaust manifold bolts.
Consider sendout heads, for rebuild. It will include cleaning magnaflu and valve seal replacement; about $60.

Piece of cake!

 

[rmcknight]

i spent about $50 for sohc 4.0 head gaskets + did the job using the old bolts (probably not a good idea), but no issues yet (only done 1000 kms).

 

[marragtop]

You should not use the old head bolts. Ford uses 'stretch' bolts that should not be reused. Just my opinion..

 

[rmcknight]

yer but just for fun i will try and sell the re-use option for a while:
the bolts are about as thick as my thumb and were done up real tight!!!! - so that means they were stretched a fair amount. then you undo them and shrink to about 50% of the stretch they were.
So then you do them back up to the right force - say 30nm + 90 deg + 90 deg + a tad for luck.
now they are done up a bit further than original, but to the same torque as before.
the downside is that the bolt wont stretch quite so much & will also be holding more clamp force - as long as the 2 materials can slide as they heat & cool (the head gasket takes care of that - as its 3 layers), all is ok.

 

[shamaal]

I'm not sure if bolts shrink after torque is removed, but whatever works!

 

[stup]

mind if i ask why you are doing the head gaskets? i might be looking into doing those on my 98 sohc. had a coolant leak into oil, figure the only place on these engines is at the heads.

 

[RammaR]

Thanks for the advice. Any tricks to getting out the exhaust manifold bolts without snapping them? Lots of PB Blaster I guess?

Stup, I've got a coolant leak as well. Losing the reservoir tank in about a weeks time. So this project should make for an interesting weekend.

 

[stup]

Thanks for the advice. Any tricks to getting out the exhaust manifold bolts without snapping them? Lots of PB Blaster I guess?

Stup, I've got a coolant leak as well. Losing the reservoir tank in about a weeks time. So this project should make for an interesting weekend.

internal or external leak? i was losing the reservior tank in about a weeks time as well, but it was going into the oil, but the oil level stayed the same. only way i knew it was in the oil was from they dye i added to the coolant and then had the oil sent in for analysis, wasnt even expecting to find coolant in the oil. but after reading a few more posts and seeing some pictures, i guess my leak could also be coming from the timing cover. how were you able to tell it was the HG?

also, ya, pb blaster (or wd40) and if you can, heat the bolts before removing, either with a torch or a heat gun, but personally, i would try to remove them before heating them. only heat the stubborn ones.

 

[RammaR]

I'm fouling plugs and have lower compression in the two bad cylinders. The plugs have a funky odor as well, the parts shop said its a sign of water fouling. I've looked all over the engine for a water leak, nothing ever drops but I thought it might be evaporating - no such luck.

So I'm confident enough that's the problem that I'm going to invest a good bit of the weekend pulling it apart. Good luck with yours!

 

[shamaal]

Thanks for the advice. Any tricks to getting out the exhaust manifold bolts without snapping them? Lots of PB Blaster I guess?

Stup, I've got a coolant leak as well. Losing the reservoir tank in about a weeks time. So this project should make for an interesting weekend.

Lots of PB Blaster. An impact wrench helps tremendously. Pull off the wheel well tupperware. Get the 6 point socket on square. I used a an 18" cheater on a breaker bar.

Good Luck!

 

[rmcknight]

I believe i know where all your missing water is going!
After i did my heads up (because of my missing water), i still sometimes loose water, and i finally found the issue. It leaks from the side of the radiator for about 20 seconds only when the engine starts off cold and is under pressure at the point the thermostat must just start to open.
Anyway - the radiator has plastic "tubs" on the sides and these are sealed with massive O rings. These O rings shrink and or the metal flanges on the sides need to be tightened a tid with multigrips - to put more tendion on the o rings.
You can also send the radiator to a shop and have them do it. This is common on newer vehicles, they all use plastic now as it cheaper than copper!
So start your car cold take it for a 1-2 min drive, leave it on and get out and see if there are drips comming from the radiator seam.