Head Gaskets....err...engine replacement?

[V8BoatBuilder]

Ok: Well I've had the truck for a week now (97 V8 AWD Mountaineer) and I think it needs head gaskets. I personally thought something was amisss when I bought it from a dealer, but it had a 60 day warranty. I got a great deal - with the ultimate plans of putting in a ford racing crate motor and 5spd manual.

But for now, should I:
1) Take it back to the dealer and have him fix it (there is a $100 deductible (MA state law). I have no idea who he'll take it to, and how good they are. But it will only cost $100.

2) Try to get him to pay for my parts - and do the head gaskets myself. Has anyone on the board done 5.0 gaskets? I did a head gasket job on a 4 cyl Peugeot before, but that was nothing compared to the 302.

3) Just go for the crate motor - Now!

The engine runs extremely strong, no noises or anything. But it's using coolant, and there is white smoke. What's the likelyhood of other engine damage, and if the gaskets are done, something related also failing.

I'm going down to the garage to do a compression test.

Thanks for any input,
Aaron

 

[aldive]

I would determine whats wrong before going back to the seller and make them fix it.

 

[james t]

also, you need to think about what made the gasket blow. it's about a .05% chance its just a defective head gasket... 5 liter head gaskets dont just blow out under 150k miles for no reason... perhaps previous owner drove it while it was overheating. in any respect, i would make them fix it.

 

[Apten]

yep, headgaskets on 5 liters are extremly odd to go. Is there bubbles in the coolant overflow bottle?

Brian

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

I can't see any bubbles in the coolant tank, and there were a few bubbles on the dipstick last night, but the oil was nice and clean, though I changed it 100 miles ago.

The real sign is the coolant is being used at a fair rate and I feel there is too much white smoke coming out the tailpipe.

I don't think its a serious head gasket leak - yet - but I want to fix it before it gets worse.

I wanted to run a compression test on it, but accessing some of the spark plugs is a PITA - does anyone have any tips/tools to recommend?

-Aaron

 

[aldive]

You have to gut it out and do that compression test; that will tell a lot.

Good luck......

 

[Jason_25]

Jack it up, remove the wheels and fenderwell liners and go through there if you have to.

 

[james t]

on a 5.0 X, dont even bother with getting at the plugs through the top. the only way to do it is through the fenderwells (like Jason said).

also, if its using coolant, and there is excessive vapor in the exhaust, it should run like crap. i have never heard of an engine with a blown head gasket (were it leaks into the combustion chamber) run "like new". sounds strange.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Besides what i've described the only other telltale sign is the 10mpg it's getting - though that's kind of expected. Put it next to an OK 5.0 and you can't hear a difference. Drives great - but it's parked untill the drive to the dealership.

Weird that its running so great - but I'm glad i caught it before it became anything major. I'm gonna tackle the compression test once and for all tomorrow, but Thursday it's going in and i'm gonna get the dealer to do the gaskets under the warranty.

 

[brokenman]

This could be helpful or then again, maybe not.
My mom's 2001 Taurus had a problem with white smoke from the exhaust and one day while driving, the AC quit, a hugely dense could puffed out and the temp shot up for like three seconds. It's under warranty, she took it in before I could look at it, the repair costed like 30 bucks the mechanic said. Anyways, she's sleepin' now but I'll ask tomorrow to see if she remembers what it was.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Compression Test Results

Ok... Well I did the compression test today (It was SO easy, thanks guys for letting me know about the fender wells. The plastic panels came right off for awesome access to the plugs, no contorsions necessary)

Here are the results, what do they mean:

Runs 1 and 2 are dry, run 3 is with oil squirted into the cylinder. I cranked the starter for about 10 seconds each run

Passenger Side Bank:
Cyl #1: 1) 150psi 2) 150psi 3) 155psi
Cyl #2: 1) 135psi 2) 135psi 3) 155psi
Cyl #3: 1) 135psi 2) 135psi 3) 150psi
Cyl #4: 1) 100psi 2) 135psi 3) 120psi

Driver's Side Bank:
Cyl #5: 1) 140psi 2) 145psi 3) 160psi
Cyl #6: 1) 140psi 2) 145psi 3) 160psi
Cyl #7: 1) 135psi 2) 150psi 3) 180psi
Cyl #8: 1) 150psi 2) 150psi 3) 180psi

Those numbers look kind of screwy to me. It would seem there *might* be a headgasket problem on cylinder #4.

The readings increased dramatically on some cylinders when oil was added (like #7) but others, like (#1) had no increase.

This is the first time I've done a compression test - what do these numbers mean?

Oh... and BTW, I may have screwed this up, but I did this with the engine cold. How much of a difference does that make?