Heater / AC Blower Motor Wont Come On

[LJM's98Exploder]

Okay I'm aware that there's a lot of postings about this problem already listed, because I just spent the last 2 hours reading them. But I still haven't found the solution this is a new to me vehicle and the front fan motor was not working when I got it .
Here's what I've done
Checked fuses and relays
Checked for power at all plugs
Power is present at switch but fan does NOT come on when bypassed
NO Power present @ Resistors or Motor plugs however.
I replaced the resistor pack anyway to rule that out also so I'm stuck and considering a toggle switch and new wires is that my only solution ???

 

[1998Exp]

Okay I'm aware that there's a lot of postings about this problem already listed, because I just spent the last 2 hours reading them. But I still haven't found the solution this is a new to me vehicle and the front fan motor was not working when I got it .
Here's what I've done
Checked fuses and relays
Checked for power at all plugs
Power is present at switch but fan does NOT come on when bypassed
NO Power present @ Resistors or Motor plugs however.
I replaced the resistor pack anyway to rule that out also so I'm stuck and considering a toggle switch and new wires is that my only solution ???

No offense, but your post is very difficult to follow. Here is a couple suggestions:

1) Unplug the motor and hook it directly to the battery (it doesn't matter which of the two pins goes to which side of the battery). If it doesn't spin when wired directly to the battery, the motor is bad. That's quite common and a replacement is inexpensive.
2) If the motor is fine, you need to troubleshoot the electrical path systematically. You will need a schematic for that. It might have been posted here before. If not, hopefully one of the kind members will post it for you.

At this point I am assuming that since it's the XLT, it uses manual controls, not an EATC. There is a significant difference between the two systems. The following comments apply only to the manually controlled system:

3) One thing you need to understand (and which will be clear when you get a schematic) is that both the resistor pack and the panel switch are on the ground side of the motor.
4) The other thing that will be clear when you get hold of a schematic is that there are actually two relays. The main one, in the power distribution box is on the 12V side, but there is a second one, in the auxiliary relay box, which is on the ground side. The latter selects between the high speed, direct ground connection and the resistor pack.

Hope this helps some.

 

[LJM's98Exploder]

No offense, but your post is very difficult to follow. Here is a couple suggestions:

1) Unplug the motor and hook it directly to the battery (it doesn't matter which of the two pins goes to which side of the battery). If it doesn't spin when wired directly to the battery, the motor is bad. That's quite common and a replacement is inexpensive.
2) If the motor is fine, you need to troubleshoot the electrical path systematically. You will need a schematic for that. It might have been posted here before. If not, hopefully one of the kind members will post it for you.

At this point I am assuming that since it's the XLT, it uses manual controls, not an EATC. There is a significant difference between the two systems. The following comments apply only to the manually controlled system:

3) One thing you need to understand (and which will be clear when you get a schematic) is that both the resistor pack and the panel switch are on the ground side of the motor.
4) The other thing that will be clear when you get hold of a schematic is that there are actually two relays. The main one, in the power distribution box is on the 12V side, but there is a second one, in the auxiliary relay box, which is on the ground side. The latter selects between the high speed, direct ground connection and the resistor pack.

Hope this helps some.

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No offense, but your post is very difficult to follow. Here is a couple suggestions:

1) Unplug the motor and hook it directly to the battery (it doesn't matter which of the two pins goes to which side of the battery). If it doesn't spin when wired directly to the battery, the motor is bad. That's quite common and a replacement is inexpensive.
2) If the motor is fine, you need to troubleshoot the electrical path systematically. You will need a schematic for that. It might have been posted here before. If not, hopefully one of the kind members will post it for you.

At this point I am assuming that since it's the XLT, it uses manual controls, not an EATC. There is a significant difference between the two systems. The following comments apply only to the manually controlled system:

3) One thing you need to understand (and which will be clear when you get a schematic) is that both the resistor pack and the panel switch are on the ground side of the motor.
4) The other thing that will be clear when you get hold of a schematic is that there are actually two relays. The main one, in the power distribution box is on the 12V side, but there is a second one, in the auxiliary relay box, which is on the ground side. The latter selects between the high speed, direct ground connection and the resistor pack.

Hope this helps some.

Hello and THANK you so much for your response . I'm sorry my post is hard to follow. I worked as a pro for over 40 years and I forget not everyone has . Anyway I was hoping you are willing to let me pick your brain a little more ? 1st question. When you wire the motor to the batt. Directly how fast should it spin? (Like it was on high or low setting of switch) 2nd question. Where is the auxiliary relay box located ? And yes sit you are correct my Explorer does have the manual control system. I think that I'm going to go buy the Motor replace it and see what happens. Even though it spins when hooked to the battery it's not spinning very fast and after a short time it started to get warmer than I think it should and other than the second relay I've pretty much replaced everything else . good thing for me my brother works for a local Ford dealership in the parts department so OE parts for cheap thanks again for your help and time have a great day everyone and I will let you know how things work out

 

[1998Exp]

Hello and THANK you so much for your response . I'm sorry my post is hard to follow. I worked as a pro for over 40 years and I forget not everyone has . Anyway I was hoping you are willing to let me pick your brain a little more ? 1st question. When you wire the motor to the batt. Directly how fast should it spin? (Like it was on high or low setting of switch) 2nd question. Where is the auxiliary relay box located ? And yes sit you are correct my Explorer does have the manual control system. I think that I'm going to go buy the Motor replace it and see what happens. Even though it spins when hooked to the battery it's not spinning very fast and after a short time it started to get warmer than I think it should and other than the second relay I've pretty much replaced everything else . good thing for me my brother works for a local Ford dealership in the parts department so OE parts for cheap thanks again for your help and time have a great day everyone and I will let you know how things work out

Sounds like you found the problem. Wired directly, the fan should run at maximum speed (assuming that the battery is fully charged). When you select max speed on the panel, the "high speed" relay is activated, and does the same thing, bypassing the resistors. That relay is in the box attached to the inner fender, just below the air filter. The relevant relay should be the third one counting from the front. If there is a relay installed in the first position, it should be identical, so you can swap them to test.