Sounds to me like your engine is stalling under sudden deceleration.
Many things could be to blame.
Have you got a check engine light yet?
I don't think the tire rotation has anything to do with it. (coincidence).
Unless by rotate you mean put two new tires on and switched them around.
If you replaced only two tires this is your problem! I'll explain as briefly as possible, this only applies if it is AWD (All Wheel Drive) if it's 2WD disregard. OK on AWD trucks the transfer case has a "slip" unit in it to allow for wheel speed differences from front axle to rear axle when turning. A SLIGHT SLIP. If you put different size tires on the front than the rear or other way round it will cause excessive slip in the transfer case creating vibration surging and funny noises.
IF this is the case get the other two tire replaced with the exact same tires ASAP as running like this for an extended period of time will destroy the transfer case.
Your tire guy should know better! This is also in your owners manual if you have one.
Don't think this tire issue is related to the stalling however, that sounds like another issue. But the transfer case "bucking" sure won't help. Unless the tire size difference is huge. So for the stalling I say stalling because your charge light came on because the engine rpm's got so low that the alternator stopped putt'n out. So the charge light is a symptom of the stalling engine not the other way round.
The stalling problem if not producing a check engine light is most likely a failing fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator or a vacuum leak etc. I know not much help. However this does narrow it down to problems that will NOT cause a check engine light. with some exceptions of course. For example if a vacuum leak is severe enough eventually it will cause some CEL's like a fault code for "lean condition" or a fault code for "throttle position out of range" "air inlet temp out of range" etc.
So if the tire situation takes care of the "bucking" and you are still stalling with no CEL it is likely the fuel pump. It's not expensive to have a tech check it out.
Some auto parts stores are equipped to do a fuel pressure test and it's generally FREE! (except for the new fuel pump you will be buying)
Go to the "Under the hood" forum for specifics on swap'n the fuel pump.
Hope this gets you pointed in the right direction.
And check back to this post, someone with that exact model year and symptoms may chime in with a 1-2-3 solution!
And Welcome to this forum!
MOST IMPORTANT NOTE ON THIS: All of this could be simply cause by a low voltage situation.
The alternator may not be putting out high enough voltage to maintain proper voltage for the computer the engine control bits and the transmission, but is just enough to have sufficient charge to start!
Also could be the battery failing and making appear as though it's the alternator.
Simple enough to pull in to ANY parts store to have that checked out.
