HELP!! drum wont fit/parking brake problem? WILL PAYPAL $$

[gremmabetrippin]

THATS RIGHT, I WILL PAYPAL $5 WHOEVER GIVES CORRECT RECOMMENDATION AND SOLUTION!! this is a work vehicle and i need it figured out asap


ok first off, my 94 xlt felt like it was dragging in the rear end, car is not well maintained, and i use the parking brake everytime i park because shift cable wont go to park, and i live in michigan with salt roads...

i changed rear diff fluid, changed new shoes/drums(chunked out with bfh)/all hardware. i go to put on the drums, drivers side goes on smooth, passenger wont fit. bottom adjuster is all the way small.

this totally seems like the pass parking brake is locked, but it still moves when pulled and released, about 1/2-2/3 the motion of the driver side. i can kinda hammer the drum on, but it is a real ***** and doesnt seem right at all. both sides look the same, and we already tore down the pass and redid it. it kinda seems like the parking brake is semi-engaged, causing the left(rear facing) shoe to not sit right and not come all the way in at the top??? i think this is my diagnosis


what is the best/FASTEST/CHEAPEST way to fix this. i searched and it seems i should spray the line with PB blaster? inside the brake too? is the cable not completely covered? like that coil metal wrapping is all thats covering the inside cable from the elements? when the pass brake was disassembled, i tried to just pull the parking brake lever/actuator to get slack and it didnt budge.

can i adjust anywhere? it has to be the parking brake correct? i dont think its completely stuck if it moves a little right? theres gotta be some trick or something i dont know about. im to the point of just trying to cut it all out and rig up a line lock for parking, but i dunno if that will f*** up how the drums operate. PLEASE HELP!!!

located in kalamazoo, MI if anyone is local.

 

[F150hybred]

Cheapest way and fastest... cut the cable. I will recommend getting a new one installed ASAP.

 

[gremmabetrippin]

will the drum still operate correctly? id still have to setup a line-lock to park anywhere... unless the drivers side one alone will hold the car when parked on a hill. (i have no park gear) can i cut just the pass side? seems like pass line is the main line holding/tensioning both together in order to work properly.

at this point should i just suck it up and order a new rear line right away to save shipping time? this has to be it if the drum wont go on right? common problem? i tried to separate them at the 1 line in/1 out connector before they split, and that things rusted to hell. it has some slack, its just hard to grip and move.

or am i supposed to separate it where they all come into that metal thing? looked like that was all one piece of the right rear line up to the metal single line connector, and the metal merger thing was just for attatching the left(driver) brake line.

 

[F150hybred]

Cut it inside the brake drum. Unfortunately, you won't have any semblance of a park brake after cutting. One other thing you can try... grab hold of the brake cable and move it around vigorously (shake the crap out of it). if it's only "just" seizing, it should loosen up enough to release it. But you're still in the same boat... no park brake because if you use it, you're risk it being stuck on again. Your choice. Either way, you need a new cable/cables.

EDIT: this doesn't sound like a hydraulic issue... don't be fussing with the brake lines.

 

[gsmaclean]

First: Are you 100% sure you reassembled the right side correctly? Are the tops of the shoes seated correctly in their slots? If they are not, the tops of the shoes will be pushed out, and you will have the problem you describe.

If you are sure it is the brake cable, just pull it out and replace it. They're not that expensive at Rock Auto. I had the same problem on my 94, and that's what I did.

 

[gremmabetrippin]

F150: i need some sort of parking brake because my trans wont shift into park. thats why i was thinking about line lock as a parking brake and just cutting the line. ill go try the shaking + pb blast thing. if it does come loose ill know for sure its the parking brake cable, and you win 5 dolla

First: Are you 100% sure you reassembled the right side correctly? Are the tops of the shoes seated correctly in their slots? If they are not, the tops of the shoes will be pushed out, and you will have the problem you describe.

see, im not convinced its the cable because there is still movement when i press it. im gonna drive over to the garage in a couple mins and take pics.
i had no idea about these "slots" the drums were supposed to be in, and there is no mention of that in my hayes manual. i moved (forced) that assembly all over and the tops still wouldnt seat down to get the drum on, but maybe im just missing something

at the very top where the 2 shoes come together (top center behind where the springs attach to), it seems like the rear shoe is sticking out upward a little compared to the front shoe, and wont come in close to touching that knob. i thought it was the parking brake because its mounted to that rear shoe, and if engaged, that parking brake lever pushes out where it is mounted, and wont let it come back into top center.

 

[F150hybred]

Grem... I'm not worried about the five bucks. Just adding my two cents is all. Besides, by the sounds of it, you may need a beer after all is said and done.

 

[Willard]

I had this same problem. Cut the passenger cable, everything worked fine. Mine will hold it on a hill with just the driver side. Perhaps an extreme hill it wouldn't, but I use it all the time and it works fine. Someday I will replace all the cabling so it all works right.

 

[TB3]

Rear parking brake

You don't have to cut anything. Sure the emer. brake cable lines need to be replaced . Until then disconnect the emer. brake bar from the shoe on that side. The shoe should then come in to the knob. Hope this helps, Tommy!

 

[BrooklynBay]

The shoe facing the rear has more surface area than the shoe facing the front of the vehicle. Did you adjust the star gear? It might be set for the thickness of the previous shoes, but the new shoes are a little thicker, and it won't let the drum slip on.