Help!! Is this fatal??

[svt4cam]

2000 Exploder 4.0 sohc 4x4 5r55e. Putting a new valve body in to try and solve some issues and upon taking out the old valve body I found some small pieces of ground up metal on top of valve body (see below). Should I not bother putting my new valve body in or is this somewhat normal?? Thanks for your replies

 

[junkYARDbuilt]

ooohhh! I don't know alot about trannys but that looks mighty discouraging. Good luck with that

 

[bcburlette]

I also cant really be of help other than to say, thats definitely not normal....

 

[svt4cam]

Well strange thing is trans functions ok but od light starts flashing after 10 minutes or so of driving. Also seems like freeway rpms are higher than they should be in od around 2500 @ 60 mph. Anybody have any idea what got chewed up internally? Maybe I'll be calling Jasper on Monday.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Metal chips are usually from hard parts such as sprags, bearings, thrust washers, clutch pack drums, planetaries or from the inside of the torque converter. What code numbers came up?

 

[svt4cam]

It came up with PO732 and PO735. Also the coast clutch doesn't function rpm's drop to idle in any gear at any speed if you let off the throttle. Although the amount of pieces was not huge it sure doesn't look healthy to me.

 

[BrooklynBay]

See if you could adjust the bands. If not, then there could be a broken band. Band parts are much larger than these fragments. The coast clutch section could have mechanical damage.

 

[svt4cam]

I adjusted the od band ? the one above the gear postion sensor that's a pain to get a wrench on before I opened it up figuring that if I couldn't opening it up was futile. It did torque to 120 inch pounds. and then I backed it off per the posts here. I didn't do the the low gear band as the gear cable was blocking it. I peered up into the trans and it appeared the bands were held tight by the adjuster bolts.

 

[svt4cam]

So what does everybody think? Put in the new valve body and blindly hope for the best or button the trans back together with the old stuff and then pull the trans for replacement with a rebuilt then return the new valve body unused to where I got it from? Thanks

 

[BrooklynBay]

Internal hard part damage will probably get into a new valve body, so it might be a good idea to rebuild the transmission. You could rebuild your current valve body, and use it until an accumulation of hard parts get into it again. I think it's on borrowed time if there is already some part that is failing. It's up to you if you want to rebuild everything or just clean it up, and see how long it will last. I know that this wasn't what you wanted to hear, but these fragments are larger than ordinary shavings from thrust washers (which is normal wear).

 

[svt4cam]

Thanks Brooklyn, That was pretty much what I was thinking. The way it was acting I thought there might be a possiblity of fixing it with the valve body but upon finding the metallic shavings I think I'm better off going the rebuilt route. Any recommendations on who to purchase a rebuilt from? I can get a jobber discount from Jasper where I work which makes it 1920.00 including freight any recommendations of other reputable rebuilders or beefs against the Jasper route?

 

[ranger7ltr]

I would have to concur the tranny looks to be in bad shape..

But I am curious; what does the pan look like?If the valvebody has bits in it, I can't help but wonder what chunks are in the pan...

Do you have apic of the pan after you pulled it off? I have looked at 5R55e valvebodies more than I care to admit but that unit of yours looks awesomely foul...

But the fact that the only real problem you seem to have is no coast clutch would almost make me rebuild the vavlebody and pop it back on and run it... BUT...Unless the pan was completely free of debris would I even consider that...And even then reluctantly....

 

[BrooklynBay]

Check the vendors list on WWW.GearsMagazine.Com for a reputable rebuilt unit.

 

[svt4cam]

Pan suprisingly didn't appear too bad although I turned it upside down into the drain pan upon removal. It had a few bits of metal stuck to the magnets which were about the same size as the stuff I photographed on the valve body and alot of metallic goop stuck to the magnets which I assume to be wear from the friction material? Since the new valve body was 260.00 or so I'm more inclined to return it and just go the rebuilt route for peace of mind.

 

[kifferarri]

metal bits inside a trans are never good. pull the filter out, break it apart, and see whats inside, chances are, if the valve body has bits on it, the filter is full of them... in my experiance (im an apprentice mechanic), my best bet would be rip the trans out for a rebuild, because with bits in it, its running on borrowed time, and will go when you least want it to. like someone said, slivers are ok (small amount of them), or metalic goop, or maybe 3 to 4 flakes like that, but not that much.

 

[svt4cam]

Thanks all I've thrown the old valve body and filter back into it buttoned it up and I'm going to sell it to the unsuspecting kid on the next block from me. Just kidding. I'm in the process of pulling the trans to replace it with a rebuilt. How in the heck do you pull apart the o2 sensor electrical connection for the right downpipe off the manifold? The connector is up on underneath the heator core fan box. I can't get enough a grip on it from below, above or coming through the wheel well. What was Ford thinking of?

 

[BobWiersema]

Thanks all I've thrown the old valve body and filter back into it buttoned it up and I'm going to sell it to the unsuspecting kid on the next block from me. Just kidding. I'm in the process of pulling the trans to replace it with a rebuilt. How in the heck do you pull apart the o2 sensor electrical connection for the right downpipe off the manifold? The connector is up on underneath the heator core fan box. I can't get enough a grip on it from below, above or coming through the wheel well. What was Ford thinking of?

Those connectors suck. When I replaced my o2 sensors I just cut the wires and splice on the new sensor. A quick connector is easier then splicing but not if you cant get at it.

Are you looking for a rebuilt or a remanufactured, big difference you know. My buddy used these guys a few years back, still running strong.
http://www.drivetrain.com
I found these prices for your trans.


EXPLORER 01-04 5 RWD 5R55E

Core Deposit $400

1 Year 12,000 Mile Warranty $1688

3 Year 100,000 Mile Warrant $2719

5 YEAR Unlimited Mile Warrant Non Commercial $3670

Not bad for a re-man. when you consider re rebuilt is around $1,200

 

[svt4cam]

Thanks for pointing out my error. Meant to say reman I guess. I've given up for the night after having a big dinner and a couple of beers I'm semi comatose. I'll go after it again tomorrow when I'm fresh as I'm off work Mondays. Luckily I have another car to drive while I'm getting this girl straightened out. I'm inclined to install a stand alone cooler and remote filter with the new trans as who knows what sort of crap I'd pull back out of the stock cooler when hooked up.