Help Itscold And Heaters Slow

[ruzztec]

I did a search and turned up some with hearter probs but mine is different from theres. My heater fan turns but not fast. The speed does vary from slow to faster turning the knob but even at the fastest it seems to be slower than a slow should be. It also seems like the longer it goes the slower it gets. One day it didn't even move after about 15 sec. I came down the next day and it was slow agin. What could this be, im freezing

 

[Vanquish502]

Either a bad switch or bad motor. Change the switch first, since its cheaper. If not fixed, the motor.

 

[Vanquish502]

Either a bad switch or bad motor. Change the switch first, since its cheaper. If not fixed, the motor.


Plus, check the voltage going into the back of the switch.

 

[ruzztec]

OK update. The blower was not blowing and i tapped the blower motor with a wrech and it blows like a toyota. I mean it blows alot, lol. So i warmed up and shut it off came back a few (about 20) min later and it was going slow agin. Tap agin and fine. Can the motor stick and be cleaned to free or is tha a sign of going out?

 

[Rhett]

?? Could be a loose connection, but it could be a motor going out. Hope it's a loose connection

 

[Vanquish502]

Blows like a yota...haha thats comedy.

 

[glfredrick]

If you want more heat in really cold weather, block off about half of your radiator with cardboard or something. It's best to cut a round hole in the center of the cardboard to let the fan do its thing. You don't need all that surface area when the temps get below 20. This is a trick we've been doing for decades in the Northern states. It works wonders to heat up a truck faster.

 

[Vanquish502]

WTF?

Why would you do that? Or is my Explorer the only one that gets warm in a couple of minutes?

 

[ruzztec]

Ok i got a hammer and the blower looked like a nail. I thought i was wronge but later i found that i was only mistaken. LOL So anyone got a good guide on taking the thing apart jsut incase. Or is it really easy? Hmm cardboard....fresh out, i got glue! Hehehe

 

[glfredrick]

WTF?

Why would you do that? Or is my Explorer the only one that gets warm in a couple of minutes?

Sure, it gets warm, but in really cold weather (zero or below) it is hard to even hit normal operating temps. Cooler is not always better on emissions controlled vehicles. Just watch how much air flow you do get, so you don't overheat. Those radiators are designed to keep that engine cool at temps running into the hundred range. You just don't need all that surface area in really cold weather.

 

[Rhett]

WTF?

Why would you do that? Or is my Explorer the only one that gets warm in a couple of minutes?

Mine gets warm in a few minutes too, but I have seen a lot of people do that.
The "cold front" grilles do a similar job and look better than cardboard.

 

[GRainMOnkey]

new radiator, water pump and thermostat........ she's warm in about 5 minutes

 

[savage120]

I have a 91 xlt and I tookout the 180 degree stat and put a 195 in and put new coolant in and the heat guage on the dash stays right around the n and a couple times while I am driving around the heat guage shoots up to the L in Normal and goes right back down to the N. Also I have luke warm heat from the vents. Is it a faulty stat??

 

[GRainMOnkey]

not sure.... could it be possibly heater core plugged a little??? I know in my aerostar we thought it was the thermostat and it stayed semi-warm... temp guage was fine raised to middle of normal then back to N.. so looked at heater core and it had so much build up (from what mechanic told me) hardly anything could get through.. changed it and she's hot now.... my water pump went bad on the EX and radiator basically did too so changed them out... i got the 195* thermostat also from napa havent had any problems as of yet heat actually gets so hot i got the "flame thrower" effect i know a few have talked about but when you have -40 windchills its welcomed in my book.

 

[savage120]

I'll have to check it out. I took it to my mechanic and he said he found and replaced a leaky heater hose, which I did not even know was leaking. He also thiks my thermostat is in backwards, which i doubt becuase I put it in.

 

[Rhett]

I'll have to check it out. I took it to my mechanic and he said he found and replaced a leaky heater hose, which I did not even know was leaking. He also thiks my thermostat is in backwards, which i doubt becuase I put it in.

Make sure you burped excess air out of the cooling system.

Also, in my experience with these trucks, there will be some movement of the temp gauge as a normal course of driving, even once the truck is warmed up. But I'd burp that thing to be sure. If the air is in there, it will cause more movement of the gauge (temp fluctuations) than normal.

 

[Glacier991]

Also, us first gen owners have a REAL easy job to replace the heater core..... so don't be shy about replacement. It is a 30 min job and a new core will only run ya $20-30.

(Contrast that to my 93 Sable, in which the manual for the job starts out "Remove instrument panel and rest in front seat" - when I get done taking out the damn instrument panel I'll take a nap in my OWN bed, thankyewverymuch!))

I'll vouch for the cardboard trick... in sub zero snaps in Montana everyone was using cardboard to block off parts of the radiator.

 

[savage120]

Well turns out that I did a leak down test and cylinder number 6 is leaking all the air onto the coolant system, so its back in the shop for a head gasket or a new head. And when I pressurized the coolant system the waterpump is on its way out also. Is there any thing else that should be replaced while the heads are going to be off?

 

[Glacier991]

If I had my 1st gen heads off, I'd have them magnafluxed and get a valve job. That block will go forever, the heads are a weak link. Refurbish them and you ought to be good for a long time. Just a thought.

 

[savage120]

Yeah I will say something to my mechanic about the valves