HELP! No instructions in my 8.8 Traction Lok Kit!!

[Chris Harrach]

Is there anyone who can tell me in what order to install clutch pack? What I have is as follows per side:3 clutch shims marked .030, .035, .040. 4 clutch spacers. 3 friction plates. A total of 10 per side. This kit is from Ford Racing. (Kit # M-4700-B) which I got from Summit Racing. I've no idea in what order these go in, and the only instruction sheet I was able to come across on this forum was an excellent & very informative 8.8 Traction Lok differential rebuild by Roadrunner777, done in November 2011,showing the old and new way to install, but those instructions (both old & new way to stack the clutch pack) had 8 instead of 10. However I did see a very good YouTube video on this installation. I'm guessing that from what I've gathered, I need to eliminate one clutch spacer per side, and one shim. Also, there was a lot of confusion as to whether or not I had the correct "Spider Gears". I purchased a set from Allen Vigil Ford in Fayetteville. When I opened the box, the gears had one less "Tooth" or Cog than the ruined set I removed from my differential. (My side gears had 14 & the new ones had 13. The same thing with the small upper & lower gears: Mine had 10, the new ones had 9.). I went back to the dealer & was told that this was a design change from the original, apparently the 2nd or 3rd, and that the gears were correct and would fit. Has anyone heard of this happening? Although Im figuring a lot of this out as I go along, Id love to hear from anyone who could shed some light on this. Cheers.

 

[BK_89iX]

You have a few options for stacking the pack. This is from an earlier post of mine, (been working well for the last couple of years!):

Yes, I studied up a bit on different stacking schemes. I decided to use the format explained in a youtube video - segment from a commercial DVD. Steel, Friction, Steel, Steel, Friction, Steel, Friction, Shim (total stack height 0.640-0.645" wet). My Explorer already has the stiffer S spring. Don't want to cram in an extra friction plate or other tricks for this particular vehicle. Thoughts?

BK

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GsLDg3C6Hc

 

[Chris Harrach]

Help on 8.8 clutch packs (cont.)

You have a few options for stacking the pack. This is from an earlier post of mine, (been working well for the last couple of years!):

Yes, I studied up a bit on different stacking schemes. I decided to use the format explained in a youtube video - segment from a commercial DVD. Steel, Friction, Steel, Steel, Friction, Steel, Friction, Shim (total stack height 0.640-0.645" wet). My Explorer already has the stiffer S spring. Don't want to cram in an extra friction plate or other tricks for this particular vehicle. Thoughts?

BK

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GsLDg3C6Hc

Im inclined to agree with you 100% on this. This is the video I saw as well. (An excellent one I might add) I also had to replace the S-Spring on mine due to some pitting and very slight, but unmistakable damage. Im not trying to have the fastest Explorer off the line, so Im sticking with the same sequence that was in the video. Still, I have some concern regarding the spider gears, despite the assurances from the dealer.

 

[BK_89iX]

You might want to also try the trans/diff sub-forum. I replaced my spider gears a while back and documented everything with pics, fwiw. The new spiders were definitely a slightly different design - sounds like there is yet another design change...

BK

 

[Chris Harrach]

HELP! No instructions in 8.8 Traction Lok Kit.

You might want to also try the trans/diff sub-forum. I replaced my spider gears a while back and documented everything with pics, fwiw. The new spiders were definitely a slightly different design - sounds like there is yet another design change...

BK

I saw those. It was a very good thread you had. And I did notice the slight difference in the design of your Spider Gears. My new ones are cast like that, but with one less tooth/cog. Strange.:scratch: However, Im going to be using your "Hose Clamp" method to compress the new S-Spring, and jimmy it back into place. That seems like an effective method. I'll see what happens today.
P.S. I just got of the phone from Allan Vigil Ford's Parts Dept. (My 3rd call!!), and once again I've been assured that the Spider Gears that they sold me was indeed the correct set for my vehicle, and it is a design modification/update to the original parts. They said to also use the synthetic gear oil instead of the 80W-90 gear oil, which is also recommended by Ford. Im keeping my fingers crossed!!

 

[BK_89iX]

Sounds like you've done your due-dilligence on the spiders. You'll know soon enough if it all goes together! Post a pic for comparison if you get a chance.

The S spring can be a challenge, so be prepared for some frustration. I copied the clamp technique from elsewhere.

Your diff should have a metal tag specifying oil type. I used the Mobil-1 equivalent.

If your diff ate itself, take some time to clean out the metal sludge.

When you first drive it, don't crap yourself at the initial noise the clutch pack might make!

BK

 

[Chris Harrach]

Ready ro see what happens!!

I got everything together and back in place where it all belongs. I used your "Hose Clamp" method to get the S-spring back into place. It worked like a charm. (I used a C-clamp to help compress the spring while tightening up the hose clamps). now that its all in, I noticed that everything is nice & tight back there. I can't rotate the wheel by hand. Im guessing that is a result of having all new parts. Anyway, I have to get some synthetic gear oil & fiction modifier. Its what the Ford people said to use, and its also listed on the metal tag that was on the differential housing. (75W-140). I do have 80W-90 Gear Oil and a tube of Trans-X Posi-Trac additive for Limited Slip Gears. Its for use in Ford M2C118-A Limited Slip Differential Applications. But since the Ford dealership people & the tag state, to use Synthetic, I'll use that instead. Before I assembled all these parts, I soaked the friction plates in Friction Modifier for 12 hrs. prior to installing the clutch pack. Also cleaned out the wheel axle housings & Differential housing to remove all traces of metal particals. Also used a telescoping Magnet to find & remove any left over metal pieces that may have been hiding in the corners of the housing & axles. Im 100% certain its free of any contaminants. Im a little nervous about what you said (and what Ive read) as to how this is going to sound when I first start it up and drive.Im refering of course, to the the cluncking sound. How long does that last before it dies down? Not long I hope. Anyway, Im keeping my fingers crossed, that it all doesnt fall apart once it starts movnig. I'll let you know how it turns out. Cheers!

 

[BK_89iX]

Sounds like you are nearly there and are proceeding carefully and methodically. That will pay off in the long-run. I'm glad you mentioned cleaning out the axle housings since a lot of goop can hold up in there. I removed my axles and cleaned the tubes with a long rod and some rags/cleaner. Some lubes already contain LS friction modifier, but it does not hurt to add anyway or use non-Ford stuff. Since you installed your plates wet, probably just the first 1-2 turns will bind up & make noise. Go do some figure 8s in a parking lot to get it all broken in. It's that first turn backing out of the driveway that'll make you crap yourself - you'll see. Check the diff oil level after a couple drives since some will get held up in the axle tubes again.

BK

 

[Chris Harrach]

Success!!! (Final comments.)

Sounds like you are nearly there and are proceeding carefully and methodically. That will pay off in the long-run. I'm glad you mentioned cleaning out the axle housings since a lot of goop can hold up in there. I removed my axles and cleaned the tubes with a long rod and some rags/cleaner. Some lubes already contain LS friction modifier, but it does not hurt to add anyway or use non-Ford stuff. Since you installed your plates wet, probably just the first 1-2 turns will bind up & make noise. Go do some figure 8s in a parking lot to get it all broken in. It's that first turn backing out of the driveway that'll make you crap yourself - you'll see. Check the diff oil level after a couple drives since some will get held up in the axle tubes again.

BK

Everything went perfectly. I filled it with 75W-140 Full Synthetic gear oil from Valvoline. It took 3 Qts plus a tube of Trans-X Posi-Trac additive for Limited Slip Gears. I was suprised it took so much. The car wasn't at an extreme angle or jacked up higher on one side. Im not even sure what the holding capacity of the differential is. When I started it up and drove it there wasn't a sound out of it! Not one single Clunk, Clink, or Bang!! I could'nt believe it. I've driven it for 24 hrs now, including doing tight turns & figure 8's, but there is no unusual sounds coming from the rear end. I'm still keeping an ear out for anything, but so far so good. This is just a guess, but I'm thinking that the fact that the new design in the spider gears, & side gears ( One less "Tooth"/Gear in them: 13/9 as opposed to 14/10 ) may be the reason for the lack of initial noise. It certainly runs a whole lot smoother than it used to. There are no leaks coming from the Differential cover, so I know it's sealed tight. Same with the fill plug. I'll check the fluid level tomorrow, but I dont want to over fill the thing. All in all, Im extremly happy with the results. Big thanks to you and everyone else on this Forum who have contributed thier knowledge & .xperiences for all of us to share!!

Final thoughts one week later.

Despite having never done this job before and all the obstacles I encountered, I feel that this ended up as an overwhelming success. I've not had one single issue from the rear end since I put it all back together. (I only need to check the gear oil level tomorrow, to make sure its at a proper level). I now have an entire new rear end & suspension: Bearings, seals, rotors, parking brake shoes, Ceramic Disk brake pads, shocks, and just for the hell of it, a brand new Chrome Differential cover from Summit Racing! Now that this is out the way, the next job will be to replace the Rack & Pinion. Oh well, the fun never stops. Everyone have a happy and safe Memorial Day Weekend