Help weird noise on 92 exp

[expotrek]

ok check this out big blizzard today so i've been in 4x4 constantly. out on the highway at about 60 mph i hear this weird clunking noise every 10-12 seconds too far apart to be a warn u-joint i think. i can feel a slight vibration in my feet. my 85 bronco II made a similar noise but it did it because the engine would miss and cut out. my exp has no lose in power just clunks. i'm wondering if it could be my elec. transfer case cycling in and out of 4x4. anyone heard of this before or can help me out???? thank you!!!!!!!!!

 

[wilk1]

I have the same problem in my 91 EB, I think that it might be the autohub slipping. Is your popping sound coming from the front end also?

 

[expotrek]

IT SOUNDS LIKE ITS RIGHT BELOW MY FEET... I HATE IT!!

AT LEAST I'M NOT THE ONLY ONE WITH THIS PROBLEM I GUESS

 

[Pluto]

Noise under your feet.

My '92XLT was doing the same thing. It started last year and would do it once in a while when I was in 4x4 then it got where it would do it all the time in 4x4. We got our first snow of the year last week and I went to use my 4x4 and my good old, "thunk, thunk, thunk" was back then the first time I went to take it out of 4x4 there was this terrible buzzing grinding sound... (auto hub not completely disengaging)

Solution? I found this web site and started reading. I came to the conclusion that it could be my auto hub(s) so I bought some manuals and put them on last night. Drove to work this moring in 6 inches of new snow with my new manual hubs and like magic no more "thunk, thunk, thunk."

I believe what happens is when the auto-hubs get worn they start slipping and momentarily disengage (advance a tooth) and catch again. That would mean the reason it feels like its right under the floor board is because the drive axle going to that wheel gets slack and tight again durring the hub slip so it kind of pops forward.

(Just like if you're just barely rolling backward in neutral and put it in drive there will be a clunk from the rear drive shaft of any vehicle with a little wear on it.)

Hope this helps.

 

[wilk1]

Would replacing the worn bearings solve this problem (assuming there are worn bearings).

 

[expotrek]

dude thanks i'll check that out!!

 

[roadkill]

The auto hubs on my '92 did this a couple years ago.
Good luck!

 

[Tars]

Ok, now I'm going to throw a little twist in here, My 92 has the same problem, a thumping sound that comes and goes when the hubs are locked, but I don't have automatic hubs, mine are manuals! The sound comes and goes if the hubs are locked, in 4x4 or not, but is not there in two wheel drive. Anyone have any ideas! The problems sounds the same at about 55-60 mph it starts. And no I'm not running it in 4x4 on dry pavement. Any help would be great, I thought I had the problem fixed but I guess I was wrong!

 

[weebo22]

same here

My 92 developed the same problem last year, but until the snow hit last week I hadn't worried about it. Now that I've been unable to get up my driveway once or twice I figured it was time to get on here and find the answer. So, thanks Pluto...your problem sounded identical. One question though...where did you find your manuals? How much were they? And also, were they very difficult to put on? I've changed the rotors and bearings several times, plus worked on the autos a few times, so I'm sure I can handle it.

 

[Pluto]

I ordered my Manuals through Advanced Auto Parts. You can order them through NAPA and some other parts store chains. You can also find them pretty cheap on the internet.

You need to things to do the conversion you need the Manual Hubs, and you need a conversion kit. I got Warn hubs. It seems that the general concensus is that they're the best. Besides the Automatic ones that are on there now were made for Ford by Warn so they know what the application is. I had about $210 in everything but I've heard you can order them on the web for about $185. (Oh I also had to buy a 4 tooth hub socket for $14.)

You take off everything down to the nut that holds the wheel bearing in place. Then you put on the conversion kit Thick nut with a pin on it(pin side out)I think you torque it to 16 inch ounds but basically it's finger tight. Then a washer with holes in it and a tab on the inside. (this replaces that stupid little key) then the outer nut and Torque it to 150 foot pounds. then you put the manual lock out on and you're all set.

I had never had mine apart before, and I've never done wheel bearings on anything. But I had this apart and back together on both sides with the tools put away in an hour and 10 minutes.

 

[carrotcloud]

The warn hubs work great! I made the conversion about two weeks ago. Saved a good thirty dollars by, instead of using the Warn conversion kit, using
Spicer.

 

[wilk1]

I was driving around today, and the popping came back when going in reverse downhill. Worst part is I wasn't in 4x4, I hope it is not spreading!

 

[Pluto]

Wilk,

Do you have manual Hub locks or auto. If you have manual locks and they were not locked I'd have no ideas for you. But, if you have automatics, as mine were going bad they wouldn't engage part of the time and they wouldn't dis-engage part of the time. So you your hubs are stuck in the locked position, even though you are not in 4X4 your are still turning the front axel, differential and drive shaft just not engaging the transfer case.

I know when my front hubs are locked wether or not I'm in 4X4 that if I make a real tight turn I get popping and hoping because the differential can't make up all the difference between tire rotation. It does seem worse when I'm backing up but I think that's because there's less down pressure on the front tires so you get more slipping and hopping.

Hope this helps. The short answer here is that your hubs might be stuck in the locked opsition or at least one might be.

 

[weebo22]

additional thoughts

Adding to the confusion...I was getting ready to install the Warn manuals (Warn p/n 29071 and the conversion kit is 27997 - for '90 through '94 models), but then I started thinking about the fact that the light doesn't come on by my auto switch nor on the instrument cluster. Therefore, I'm thinking that my problem may lie in the transfer case. Pluto, was everything electrical working fine with yours at the time when you went to manual? Also, do I even need the automatic switch if I have the manuals installed? As of right now, when I push the 4x4 switch, the only thing that happens is a slight decrease on the electrical gauge and a slight change in idle speed for a second.

Oh...and for anyone that hasn't been to this site, I came across it yesterday and it has some interesting help ideas for us explorer owners. (went and bought my new armrest bracket today....damn thing has only been broken for 6 years) Dead Link Removed

 

[redexplr]

my 91 makes those similar noises from time to time (i have auto lockin hubs) im no expert but im not sure it would be good to be goin over 55 with the 4x4 engaged? i dont know does anyone have an opion on that?

sometimes when i get onto the highway and i try to dissengage the 4x4 mine will get stuck as well and when that happens i have to make sure the 4x4 is disengaged and then go in reverse for about 10 feet then forward again and that useually does it.
ive heard this is really commen for the ford transmissions sometimes you gotta go in reverse and make an S turn too.

 

[Triton46]

My 4X4 hasnt worked in 6 years. Granted it was mine from 91 until 97, my brothers from 97 until 00 and mine from Aug 2000 on (I bought it from the 'rents). Anyhow.

When I bought it, I had known that 4X4 stopped working back in 93. You push the button and get nothing. The day I bought it, I tried it just for sh*ts and grins...it worked.... worked like it was new, so I thought my problems were solved. About a month later...nothing. You press the button and nothing happens...no clicks, no lights....nothing.

I did the diagnostic on the module in the rear and the LED blinks...indicating a motor malfunction. But why don't I get any clicks? Most of you say you get clicking, but 4X4 does not engage. I get nothing.

 

[Pluto]

Weebo....

The manuals won't do you any good if your transfer case is not engaging. You will just lock in that axel and it and the drive saft will turn when you move but with no power to it. Like towing a reawheel drive vhehicle in neutral.

I'd guess (and I'm no mechanic) that if you light isn't doing anything and there is no difference in RPMs that you either have a blown fuse or you transfer case motor is dead.

I don't know too much about this but there are some other links on this site that discuss this problem.

That transfer case motor is just a small electric cervo motor that engages the gears to the front drive shaft.

 

[wilk1]

Pluto,

Thanks for the tips. My hubs are autos, but I don't think that they are locked, could it be the U-joint?

 

[ChewieM16]

Stuck in 10 inches of snow...

Got a bunch of snow out here in Long Island...

I engaged my 4-wheel drive today while in neutral, I heard the "click" and the dash indicator came on. When I tried to go up a small snow hill in 4-wheel drive, I heard a rapid clicking sound coming from the front hubs. After I disengaged it (or I thought I did) by backing up about 30 feet, I heard the same noises while driving on the road. Do I have busted hubs? Is my transfer case shot? Should I go with manual locking hubs? Any advice and tips would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.

-mike

 

[Adam's92]

I had this too just this week, its like a bumping from the floor near the firewall , very random and far between. but seems to happen above 45 mph. I havent got a clue what this could be maybe someone could give suggestions.

thanks