Help with tailpipe removal...

[laneo9417]

So I've hit a big of a roadblock in trying to replace my tailpipe. Unfortunately, the tailpipe rusted out and broke off at the muffler. I was able to get the connecting clamp off with an air cut off tool but the issue that I'm having now (and one that I guess I didn't even consider at first) is the fact that the the part of tailpipe that inserts into the muffler outlet is still stuck on. I snapped a couple pics to try to illustrate what I'm dealing with:

I wedged a screwdriver between the two pieces of pipe and banged it with a hammer and I seemed to be making progress but the leverage of laying on my back and the tight swinging space didn't help me out. As a guy without access to a vertical lift and limited tools does anyone have any suggestions on how to get the inside piece of pipe out of the outlet? I'm hoping to a.) avoid buying a new muffler too, and b.) dropping it off at the shop to have them do it. The new tailpipe is sitting in my garage so I'm itching to do this myself.

 

[drdoom]

And your new pipe also needs to go inside? Maybe you could purchase an adapter to go over all you have remaining there, and connect your new pipe to that, shortening if necessary? Just a thought. If you must remove it you are doing it correctly. I once ground a flat screwdriver to a a slight angle then beveled the edge to cut, driving it all the way. You are heading down the right path, just got to get medieval on it, and don't forget the oil.

 

[bill06447]

Hacksaw blade inside the pipe to cut a groove in the remains of the tailpipe; this will allow you to grab the piece of tailpipe peel it around and remove it. Spray with penetrating oil to help loosen it up

Bill

 

[laneo9417]

Thanks for the ideas guys, I didn't think of the adapter or the sawzall trick. I bought three cans of PB Blaster last week and have already burned through almost two of them. I think my main issue at this point is getting a better angle at this. I have a pair of jack stands but I just can't trust them because of the different areas of rust on the frame. Does anyone know of a good pair of ramps that would give me decent clearance to get under there?

 

[rb142]

Slicing the inner tube, as Bill suggested, relieves the pressure since the inner tube can now get smaller. Then you can peel it inward. You still have to break the rust bond. A torch helps with that.

Most all of the ramps I have come across are pretty similar in height, so just pick whatever you like. Be careful of the inexpensive stamped steel ramps, as I have seen them fail, flatten out, and drop the load.

If the frame is too rusty to trust on jack stands, it probably is getting to the point of structural integrity/safety issues. Might be time to think about retiring it.

 

[mikepier]

Sometimes its just easier to rip everything out including the muffler, and installing all new. I'm on my 3rd exhaust system, and even though it cost extra for a muffler, it was a heck of a lot easier to install.

How old is your muffler?

 

[laneo9417]

If the frame is too rusty to trust on jack stands, it probably is getting to the point of structural integrity/safety issues. Might be time to think about retiring it.

I'm sure the frame is fine, it's just that I don't trust myself setting up the jack stands properly lol

 

[laneo9417]

How old is your muffler?

I had the whole system (cat back) replaced about 2.5 years ago shortly after I got the truck. The muffler is a stainless steel Walker product but it appears the tail pipe/resonator assembly was not and did not hold up very well to the winters and salt.

 

[laneo9417]

So I finally got the broken tailpipe piece out of the muffler outlet and installed the new tailpipe this past weekend after about 5 hours and many trials and tribulations . With the help of a friend we got the rear up on jack stands and were able to place a propane torpedo heater right on the muffler. We got that sucker nice and warm and then with the help of some PB blaster and a lot of banging we were able to chisel between the two pipes and pulled the broken piece out with some vice grips. I thought we were good to go after that but then we found out that the old U-clamp had actually made a slight indentation on the muffler outlet which was not allowing us to fully insert the tail pipe to the muffler. So out came the sawzall and we trimmed the outlet just enough to allow the new pipe to be inserted securely on the muffler outlet. Even though it was exhausting work (pun intended) I gotta say there's nothing better than a successful DIY job!

 

[toypaseo]

You might have had less headaches using a lap joint, or butt joint, stainless band clamps.

I used 2½" Torca TorcTite EasySeal stainless steel band clamps on my Gibson exhaust.

 

[mikepier]

So I finally got the broken tailpipe piece out of the muffler outlet and installed the new tailpipe this past weekend after about 5 hours and many trials and tribulations . With the help of a friend we got the rear up on jack stands and were able to place a propane torpedo heater right on the muffler. We got that sucker nice and warm and then with the help of some PB blaster and a lot of banging we were able to chisel between the two pipes and pulled the broken piece out with some vice grips. I thought we were good to go after that but then we found out that the old U-clamp had actually made a slight indentation on the muffler outlet which was not allowing us to fully insert the tail pipe to the muffler. So out came the sawzall and we trimmed the outlet just enough to allow the new pipe to be inserted securely on the muffler outlet. Even though it was exhausting work (pun intended) I gotta say there's nothing better than a successful DIY job!

I am in the same boat now. My resonator rotted away, and a piece of the pipe was stuck in the muffler, but I managed to get it out. I was surprised it only lasted 3 years when I replaced entire exhaust system with Walker 3 years ago. Muffler still seems ok though.

Anyway, now I have ordered a new resonator from RockAuto, but I feel like I will have the same issue trying to fit the new pipe inside the muffler. I already tried it with a test piece of 2" pipe I cut away from the old resonator. I tried to fit it inside the muffler, but it will only go in a little. Any tips on possibly expanding the muffler outlet, or maybe contracting the resonator pipe just enough so it will fit?

 

[laneo9417]

I am in the same boat now. My resonator rotted away, and a piece of the pipe was stuck in the muffler, but I managed to get it out. I was surprised it only lasted 3 years when I replaced entire exhaust system with Walker 3 years ago. Muffler still seems ok though.

Anyway, now I have ordered a new resonator from RockAuto, but I feel like I will have the same issue trying to fit the new pipe inside the muffler. I already tried it with a test piece of 2" pipe I cut away from the old resonator. I tried to fit it inside the muffler, but it will only go in a little. Any tips on possibly expanding the muffler outlet, or maybe contracting the resonator pipe just enough so it will fit?

Did you ever find a solution? The issue I was facing was that the muffler outlet had a slight indentation from the old clamp. I tried to force the resonator pipe on but couldn't get it on well enough without trimming the muffler outlet

 

[mikepier]

Did you ever find a solution? The issue I was facing was that the muffler outlet had a slight indentation from the old clamp. I tried to force the resonator pipe on but couldn't get it on well enough without trimming the muffler outlet

Yes. At first I had cut a piece of 2 " scrap pipe from the old resonator, and tried to heat up the muffler outlet with a torch and try to hammer in the 2 " pipe to get the muffler outlet round again. That did not work well.

So then I used my Dremel tool with a grinder wheel bit and smoothed out the inside of the muffler outlet, concentrating on the indentation made by the clamp.

In addition, I also used a small angle grinder to smooth down the outside of the resonator pipe a bit just to get that extra wiggle room.

The combination of both was just enough for me to get the pipe in the muffler.

If that did not work, my next step was to do what you did, cut off a piece of the muffler outlet to get rid of the indentation.

Lets see how long this resonator lasts now.

 

[laneo9417]

Nice work. When I did it the sawzall gave a nice clean cut but I think the virbration from the blade loosened up another part of my exhaust because I do have a noticeable vibration now from somewhere underneath the truck. I can't tell from the naked eye but my guess is that a heat shield or something got knocked loose. The truck runs fine and the vibration is only noticeable when idling so I can live with it for now.

I'm also curious to see how long the new resonator lasts. I'm hoping that maybe the one I originally had installed was a factory defect and that this new one will survive more than 2 winters of salt.

 

[archer973]

...I thought we were good to go after that but then we found out that the old U-clamp had actually made a slight indentation on the muffler outlet which was not allowing us to fully insert the tail pipe to the muffler...

I had a similar problem separating the muffler from the right side catalytic. The clamp had made a serious indentation in both the outer pipe from the muffler and the inner pipe from the catalytic. I used a cutting wheel on my die grinder and made two 2" - 3" cuts in the outer pipe from the pipe end toward the muffler. The cuts were separated about 90 degrees on the pipe, forming a tab that I could bend outward. This allowed me to separate the two pipes and then install the new catalytic pipe. After reclamping, I sealed the cuts with QuikSteel® (purchased at Autozone and rated for 6x higher temps than J-B Weld HighHeat™).

Even with these cuts, pulling the pipes apart was not easy. I used a ratcheting tie-down strap wrapped around the length of the muffler and hooked to the rear bumper. When the strap was pulled tight, I would shake the two pipes. The muffler would slip some and I would apply more tension with the strap. On the third or fourth time, the pipes slipped free while I was shaking them. I used the same method to force the muffler pipe onto the new catalytic pipe, only the strap was attached to one of the cross members holding the two parallel catalytic pipes together.

When using products like J-B Weld or QuikSteel, good preparation is essential. A wire wheel on an electric drill works good to remove rust. Then use brake clean to remove grease and oils.