Help with Trouble Codes

[Jabberwocky]

I just rant the "jumper" test on my Ranger 3.0. Now I have some results but not sure that’s going to help unless I get some help to go further.

KOEO CM codes came back: 122,157,158,327,336.
KOER said nothing.
After KOER while engine was still running I hit the accelerator... not sure why, but I did anyway. The idle then increased and went through a series of what seemed to be misses. It would idle up for a bit and then start missing for a few seconds, level out and do it again. When this stopped the idle dropped back down and I got "99".

I got the descriptions for the CM codes from BrooklynBays post in the sticky, but I'm not clear as to what they mean I need to do and I have no clue what the test was that started from my throttle press or what the "99" meant. If anyone could shed some light on this for me I would be ever so grateful.

 

[DV8]

i know when using my snap-on scanner on my x, to get the koer codes, you have to cycle the steering wheel and pump the brake for about a minute, then it gives the command 'snap throttle,' i.e. floor it real quick and let off real quick. then what you described will happen, then the codes will display on the screen... as far as the 99, i have no idea...

 

[MrShorty]

Which of the KOEO/CM codes were KOEO codes and which were CM codes (or did you get a 111 pass code KOEO)? Usually the best first thing to do when you get a "laundry list" of codes is to identify the KOEO codes and work on them first. KOEO codes are the codes output before the separator pulse.

 

[Jabberwocky]

KOEO test was passed (111) all the codes it spot out were CM. I cleared the memory last night and am going to test again tonight.

 

[Jabberwocky]

So I've put about 50mi on the truck today and ran the KOEO test again. I got 111 for KOEO and CM, and you would think that should make me happy.

The truck has a rough idle and low power. The truck is newer to me and had this problem existing when I got it, my ICV was inoperable so I cleaned it and now it's fine, I thought it might be MAF, so I cleaned it and saw no discernable change, I had a cracked head and exhaust leak that lead to me putting a new set of heads on.

All the way through I have had this idle/power issue. Now that the exhaust leak is gone I can hear something that sounds like a cross between a lifter tapping and that noise that a stuck exhaust heat riser used to make (my Ford friends all refer to the noise as “that old Ford noise”, so maybe this is common, however my Taurus with an identical motor and twice the millage never made this sound).
The noise, plus rough idle, plus low power has caused me to start thinking EGR, however that code has left us since I cleared the memory.

Does anyone have any ideas as what my next step should be? I've called my local parts houses and the DPFE and EGR are both about $80, so I'd like to have some idea that I'm on the right track before I throw money at it and hope.

 

[MrShorty]

Have you checked your fuel pressure? Have you checked for vacuum leaks?

 

[Jabberwocky]

I've inspected the vacuum circuit and found no cracked hoses or obvious issues but haven't put the gauge on it yet. I haven't looked at the fuel pressure yet. I have tested/cleaned the injectors and during that process I didn't see anything particularly out of place. Is there any test or method I can use to determine the condition of my fuel filter? No clue how this thing was treated prior to my ownership.

 

[MrShorty]

Test for a clogged fuel filter:

Hook up a fuel pressure gauge.
turn the key on and see if pressure comes up to spec (~40 psi).
start engine and make sure fuel pressure stays up to spec (~40 psi with vacuum line removed from FPR).
If the fuel pressure can't keep up with engine demand, then a clogged filter is possibly indicated.

 

[Jabberwocky]

I noticed the fuel rails have a threaded schrader valve. Is there an adapter for that or do I need a special fuel pressure gauge?

 

[MrShorty]

the Actron fuel pressure testing kit I bought (at Pep Boys, but I've seen it at several other parts stores, too) came with the adapter to fit our fuel rails. If your fuel pressure gauge doesn't have the right fitting, I don't know where you would buy the adapter separately.