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Hey y'all.

Joined
November 3, 2016
Messages
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Location
Oregon
City, State
Oregon
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 Explorer Limited
New to the site, found some nice info here to help me narrow down the known issues with my Baby. Perhaps over time I can learn more and get to the point I can fix her up myself. My Baby's known issues are listed in my signature.
 



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welcome. i'm betting the bogging, smells of fuel, loss of mpg and shuttering at highway speeds are all related. have you checked for codes? when was the last tune up done? brake system should be addressed asap. it won't matter how well it runs if you can't stop it. there is a write up on here somewhere about leaking cargo windows you can use the search feature.
 






Honestly I can't say when her last tune up was. I'm working on getting a new EGR valve for her, her current one looks rather old. I'm also saving up to get a set of Bosch Iridium platinum spark plugs for her. I found the post explaining how to fix the windows, so that's a project in itself eventually as well. Had a buddy look at her while she idled and he thinks she has an exhaust leak, saw steam coming from a spot under the cab and felt no pressure/resistance when he held his hand over the end of the line, if that makes any sense. Oh, I'm also looking into replacing the tank float, my gas gauge died and my suspicions point to a notorious issue, the float filling with fuel and sinking. And no, I have not been able to get a hold of a code puller, but I found a link yesterday that led me to believe i dont need one to check for them.
 






Woah woah woah, don't just throw parts at it because they look old, especially if you couldn't afford to get your brakes fixed properly. Fancy plugs are nowhere near as important as properly functioning brakes. Also, iridium/platinum vs copper doesn't matter if the precious metal isn't on both of the electrodes. On these engines, they have a waste spark system, 2 plugs fire at once, one is firing in reverse (ground to center). If you only have single iridium/platinum then you've kind of wasted your money unless you plan to swap banks on the plugs halfway through their life.

You're right, you don't need a code reader, just watch this video:


Once you have codes, then start a diagnosis. There's no problem with tune-up items (air filter, fuel filter, vacuum lines, spark plugs, fluids change) but it's only usually extreme cases of neglect that those are a source of issues.
 






As for you leaking rear cargo side window, in this thread, you can see nuts on studs around the perimeter of the glass. You could check to see if they are loose. You might try to slightly tighten all of them, evenly, in a star pattern. Do not over-tighten though. You may break the glass where the stud is, or uneven pressure might crack the glass.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...closure-in-non-factory-sub-2nd-gen-ex.292595/

If that does not solve the issue, you may need to reseal the glass with new butyl. Here are some threads on that:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/leaking-cargo-window.289318/
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...erchange-with-what-years.328541/#post-2810060
 






Woah woah woah, don't just throw parts at it because they look old, especially if you couldn't afford to get your brakes fixed properly. Fancy plugs are nowhere near as important as properly functioning brakes. Also, iridium/platinum vs copper doesn't matter if the precious metal isn't on both of the electrodes. On these engines, they have a waste spark system, 2 plugs fire at once, one is firing in reverse (ground to center). If you only have single iridium/platinum then you've kind of wasted your money unless you plan to swap banks on the plugs halfway through their life.

You're right, you don't need a code reader, just watch this video:


Once you have codes, then start a diagnosis. There's no problem with tune-up items (air filter, fuel filter, vacuum lines, spark plugs, fluids change) but it's only usually extreme cases of neglect that those are a source of issues.


I was actually planning to buy a set of 6, after i took care of the brakes. right now the brakes and mileage/surging/shuddering are my bigger fish to fry, trickling down to whatever else may be plaguing my Baby. From everything i've read here and heard from guys i know, granted without having checked for codes, the issues with my surging and such could be due to the EGR failing. was also advised to look into replacing my IAC, as both, to my knowledge, are factory stock. Sadly, my funds are extremely limited at this time.
 






ok, so i just heard back from a tech i know on my brakes. they are good to go for another 10k miles or so. they did more to my brakes than i thought they had when i limped her in.
 






My statement still applies if you buy a set of 6 plugs. One bank/side of the engine fires central electrode to ground electrode, the other side fires ground electrode to center electrode. If only 1 is platinum/iridium, one bank will wear faster than the other. The wear occurs most at the point from which the spark emanates, just like welding, the metal flies from the origin to the destination.

Again, since your funds are limited, make sure the IAC/EGR is a source of problems. The DPFE sensor is often a failure point, not necessarily the EGR valve, though it may be clogged. IAC may be clogged too. If you feel frisky, take both off and clean them but don't replace them just because they might be the source of the issue.

I know I'm sounding harsh but I've been down that road. You think you're guessing right but a few hundred later and you don't have a solution to the problem. Take the smart approach, get a diagnosis and you'll have saved money and gained intimate knowledge on how the engine works :)
 






My statement still applies if you buy a set of 6 plugs. One bank/side of the engine fires central electrode to ground electrode, the other side fires ground electrode to center electrode. If only 1 is platinum/iridium, one bank will wear faster than the other. The wear occurs most at the point from which the spark emanates, just like welding, the metal flies from the origin to the destination.

Again, since your funds are limited, make sure the IAC/EGR is a source of problems. The DPFE sensor is often a failure point, not necessarily the EGR valve, though it may be clogged. IAC may be clogged too. If you feel frisky, take both off and clean them but don't replace them just because they might be the source of the issue.

I know I'm sounding harsh but I've been down that road. You think you're guessing right but a few hundred later and you don't have a solution to the problem. Take the smart approach, get a diagnosis and you'll have saved money and gained intimate knowledge on how the engine works :)

Not harsh at all, blunt in an effort save trouble later on perhaps, but not harsh. Both IAC and EGR I can easily get to, but how to clean them? I think I missed that in my digging around on here...
 






Good, we're all here to help and learn from one another. I'm by no means rich and try to save where I can and help others do the same :)

I'm not sure on the EGR but the IAC, just take the two 10mm bolts off, electrical connection and then remove the motor which I believe is 2 phillips screws. Once that's done, clean it any way you can, brake cleaner, toothbrush, whatever. I'd imagine the EGR would be the same but, being my DD is a 1991, I haven't gone down that road.
 






Good, we're all here to help and learn from one another. I'm by no means rich and try to save where I can and help others do the same :)

I'm not sure on the EGR but the IAC, just take the two 10mm bolts off, electrical connection and then remove the motor which I believe is 2 phillips screws. Once that's done, clean it any way you can, brake cleaner, toothbrush, whatever. I'd imagine the EGR would be the same but, being my DD is a 1991, I haven't gone down that road.

Sweet deal, once I can secure a dry area I will look into that. Rainin like a mother all week and I dont have a garage or anything, LOL!
 






Update: EGR and IAC valves are both clear, interestingly they are kind of a charcoal color inside but no clumps of anything that I could see. Just got my code reader in, so I'm gonna do some light reading, and see then pick my Baby's brain. Now attempting to locate my O2 sensors and save up to get a set of 6 platinum iridium spark plugs, may spring for a new ignition coil while I'm at it.
 






I'm also saving up to get a set of Bosch Iridium platinum spark plugs for her.

Now attempting to locate my O2 sensors and save up to get a set of 6 platinum iridium spark plugs, may spring for a new ignition coil while I'm at it.
Not even sure these two linked threads from different sub forums are relevant to your 1994 OHV. Bosch are probably the least preferred spark plug brand on this forum. There are MANY fail threads, especially using the +4 four electrode design. Would think Nate would have mentioned Bosch if they were an issue, just a heads up and probably a good idea to research a little further. GL.

See post #165
Joe Dirt's 2000 Ex-El-Tee "Deuce" | Page 7 | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations

Holy Spark Plug! | Ford Explorer and Ford Ranger Forums - Serious Explorations
 












if the steam goes away after a few minutes it's probably just condensation burning off. if it's still there after a 30/40 minute run i would look closer.
 






My plug recommendation is to get motorcraft double platinum as Ford suggests. Had Bosch platinum plugs and had to replace to eliminate a minor rough running condition.
 






X2 on the Motorcraft DP plugs. They seem to work better and last longer than others on our '92 and '94.
 






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