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HO Alt, Overdrive Pully, Belt; Question

SwaintaN

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City, State
Carey, Ohio (Georgia Grown)
Year, Model & Trim Level
93 XLT
I think my alternator is getting ready to crap out. The truck will go down to 8 volts and start to putter, hold your foot on break and gas it recharges, stuck a different battery in and it did the same thing. SOOOO im replacing alternator my question is....

New Alternator is (extract)
"* Internal Voltage Regulator
* Under Full Load Conditions, amperage output at 600 engine rpm (idle) will peak at 125 Amps.
* Under Full Load Conditions, amperage output at 1200 engine rpm will peak at 250 Amps.
With Free Overdrive Pulley(a $24.95 Value) included at no extra charge! An overdrive pulley is a smaller diameter pulley than your original equipment pulley. When installed, this allows more alternator current output at idle speed."

With an Overdrive Pully on the alt will I need to replace belt or can I leave it the same?
 



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Im gonna take alternator tomorrow have it tested off car. I found these post that are all similar to mine, so Im gonna check fuse and take it off. It only does it when it wants to, started it up again, no problems unless its raining (windshield wipers on) at night (lights on) and needing to defog (fan on) windows. Then it drops way below down to 8-8.5 sometimes less. So im gonna get it tested and look at the wires to see what needs upgraded. The wire from the alternator to the w/e thing (sorry dont know what its called) to a 4 ga wire with a anl fuse.

However same question still arises, do i need a different belt since it comes with an overdrive pully?

References:
Thread 1
Thread 2
Thread 3
Thread 4
 






check your grounds on the frame and engine block also.tbars has a good thead about battery cables and ground locations.most overdrive pullies take a 1" shorter belt.the last three numbers on the belt part number is the length,take an inch off and search for a belt that size.not all overdrives require a shorter belt though, it should tell you.I would check it with the stock belt first before spending the cash on a new one.witch alt are you looking at?
 












that's the same one I run,it takes a 1" shorter belt.
 












We ran an overdrive pulley on an alternator before (was the stock alternator). It definately helped charging at idle, But, I did find that it will shorten the bearing life of the alternator if you drive at higher rpms often. At the time, we were way over geared. We were averaging 2500+ rpms on the freeway and we were driving 60+ miles a day like that. The alternator bearings were lasting < 1 year. Once I switched back to the stock pulley size the issue went away. Also, we were able to use the stock belt.. it just just barely short enough...

~Mark
 






DBE said it comes with the standard overdrive pulley. so im not sure if putting the stock pulley back on would break the 1yr warranty or lower the amp put out

so manik you used the stock belt with the overdrive pulley?
 






I run underdrive pullies and no ac so my belt is very short and I had to try like three different ones.the exact size they didn't make so I think mine was like $20 but I think the longer one was like $30. I ran it with out a 1" shorter belt also but my truck has a loopy low idle because of the cam so it would slip ever now and then,when to a 1" shorter and no slipage now.
 






Yes, we ran the stock 95 amp (I think thats right) alternator with a smaller pulley off some other Ford on our normal stock belt. You could tell the belt was slightly long as the tensioner moved close to its limit. Best guess is < 1" from running out of travel.

It wasn't an after market OD pulley. I didn't do too much digging but it appears that pulley (the old one we used) actually came from a newer/higher amperage ford alternator.

~Mark
 












well if you think i can use the stock belt with only having that as the only overdrive pulley and cause no problems ill do that.

Worst case, you take your old one in and get one 1" shorter.. If the OD is smaller than the one I got off another ford then you will need another belt.

~Mark
 






i just decided to go with a 130 amp with stock pulley, was half the cost and in stock at Adv. Auto Parts. Instead of paying that big amount for the DBE one, i think 130 amp should be good for stock, have light bar/grille lights once I get my bumper.
 






couldnt get enough stuff sold to get the DBE alternator, so i got an 130 amp standard alt from Adv. working out nice, lovin it, just hope it holds up to when i do a light bar, i dont see why not went from Standard 95 amp to 130 amp.
 






just a little update.i would never buy a db one again.mine craped out after a 2 years and i took it in to have it rebuilt and the guy said"aint no way in hell this is 220" he pulled it apart and said he could count the windings and wire etc etc..and he guessed 93 amps.i said well 95 is stock,he said you got ripped off.also the fan came loose and chewed up just about every thing!! WHAT A WASTE OF $247!!!:mad::mad::mad:

I need to know what years a 130amp came off from?
 






mine came from advance auto parts, you go in tell them what year you have and tell them you want the HO option, shorter warranty but at least its legit.

i got my 0 ga ground wires here, performance terminals etc... this week ill be redoing the ground system...

how do you tell if its the starter that crapped out or the starter solenoid that is mounted on the fender?

because since the starter stopped working all together.. no battery drain?!?!?!
 






My 130 cam from a lincon town car.
 






I found one,it came from a 95 limited.im having it rebuilt to 300amps.i found a shop that will guarantee the amperage and warranty for $165;)
 






jd they have an online site?

still guys.. can a bad starter cause a drain?

also how do you tell the difference in whats bad the starter or mounted solenoid.. there is no real up front way.. i did some search but 10 pages into 25 pages i gave up.
 



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There is a method to jump the sloenoid to determine whether it is faulty or the starter is the problem. I have never done it and there is apotential shock hazard. Solenoids are cheap and easy to replace so you might just want to see if that takes care of it. In any case, you might want to replace both the starter and the solenoid. I had my solenoid fail and replaced that and then about a month later the starter failed. Consider it preventive maintenance.
 






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