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hoping this the right forum first of all..

the horn is the most important thing we need to pass inspection as of now, the "exhaust leak" supposedly was taken care of by the muffler being replaced and cats welded? 900.00 was the price quoted to fix (or i guess i should say replace) the cats they told my husband the cat on the passenger side was leaking and that both were "shot" i have read elsewhere it may be possible to "move" the horn by getting a new one and hooking it up elsewhere in case the air bags ARE an issue. When I (yp) was a little girl my dad had an old ford truck that he physically "moved " the horn to the (not the center but a little odd shaped horn)steering wheel it was small and not as loud, but it was stuck onto the steering wheel, and he would use it to steer as well as tap it to blow at someone.
 



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hey thanks for replying lounge lizard! :)
 






Saturday we are going to try and get the horn issue resolved one way or another to pass inspection, otherwise without the temp tag, we will risk being pulled over and the vehicle taken away. we need to pass inspection so we can get real tags. I have three shops in mind. One is in Kansas at least 30 minutes away, and with it being in the condition it's in I fear the truck will not start or the gaskets will blow(yp) I don't know all of the lingo. lol!!!
 






when you changed the fuse and now the horn clicks when you push on the steering wheel. everything is working just fine. no need for any new buttons.

what it is, is the horn itself has been unplugged, or the horn has just gone bad. I just changed mine to a "bad boy" air horn which I bolted to the rad support right next to the battery tray so the wire would reach.

if you crawl under the front corner of the truck and kind of reach up under the battery tray you may feel the horn and might be able to check for the wire and see if it is hooked up.


if there is a "theft" code popping up they may have disconnected the wire to stop the horn from beeping
 






oh!

I forgot! a stock horn if it is bad is like $15.00 at any auto parts store and you only have to bolt it to the chassis and plug the wire in.
 






okay thanks lounge lizard I'll let kevin know about this, and we'll get back with you for an update! thanks for your help!
 






if that works will the horn start blasting? I wanna get that code cleared. Man!
 






Thanks for contacting us with your Ford engine light question. P1260 indicates that the Passive Anti Theft system (PATS) detected a "theft condition". This basically means an incorrect signal, or no signal at all was received from the chipped key. Brief overview: your ignition key has a chip in it called a transponder that is read by the PATS transceiver (mounted around the ignition cylinder housing behind the column shroud). The signal is then sent to the PATS control module, which communicates with the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) and enables the vehicle to start. Sorry for all the acronyms! When an incorrect signal is received, the PATS module then sends this message to the PCM which triggers the P1260 trouble code, resulting in a no start condition. Possible causes are: an incorrect key being used, faulty key chip (transponder), wiring concerns between the transceiver module and PATS module, the transceiver module itself or internal PATS or PCM module concerns.

The first thing to do in this instance is retrieve codes from the PATS module and diagnose these. Once the PATS issues have been resolved you can reset the P1260. Communication with the PATS module will likely need to be done at a Ford dealer. A few things to check first: make sure the correct key is being used, and if you have a second key, try that one as well. If one key starts it but not the other, you may have a faulty key. If both keys do not work, then it is not likely a key problem. Honestly, we see very few problems with the keys themselves.

Make sure no one has tampered with the steering column shroud as the transceiver module located behind it is fairly fragile. Lastly check for an aftermarket remote start system. These are a common cause of no start problems with PATS equipped vehicles. Some installers will remove the chip from your key and tape it to the column (under the shroud). This basically bypasses the system and allows it to be started without a chipped key. The problem is that the transponder removed from the key is not designed to be used in this way and can fail due to extreme temperature changes and, depending on mounting condition, excessive vibration and shock. Other installers use a "key box" installed under the dash, and these have been known to cause issues as well. If you suspect the concern to be related to a remote start it may not be a bad idea to have it checked or removed to complete diagnosis. I hope this information has been helpful. Let me know if you need further assistance or clarification on any of this. Have a great day!
 






I posted(yp) the above for kevin to see hopefully while at work. It's for information. We are gonna have a no start very soon I believe if we don't get this resolved. the key we were given looks very basic has a black head to it, (not like the one in the manual I printed off yesterday)the guy who sold it to us said you have to like wiggle it - and you put it in and pull it back some then start it. I did the carfax this morning. 5 previous owners. Nothing too bad on it except when someone tried to title it years back with false mileage.
 






does the key look like this
140.jpg


or this
140.jpg
 






hey shadowless, no it doesn't kevin has the key, and hopefully he'll see this and reply, if not I will later on. Hope to get he pics uploaded this evening of the truck. My usb cord is tempermental. Or can I upload pics being a "wannabe" - do I have to pay the 20.00 fee to upgrade first and THEN I'll be able to upload pics?
 






does the key look like this
140.jpg


or this
140.jpg

the head is wider, there's no hole and doesn't say ford on it, at all- as far as the shape of the actual metal? unsure till I see it again:navajo: after work
 






you can just upload the picture to image shack or Photobucket for free and post a link to it.... if you need a free pic hosting.
 






thank you waskly! :)
 






oops it does have a hole it says strattec on it ... but it is wider though lol!1
 












cylinoids(SP) are bad, plugged up new horn still just clicking, oxygen sensors bad, missed opportunity to go to shop, oh well maybe next week
 






if you have a test light, check to see if there is power on the wire to the horn when the button is pushed.

the horn relay is in the box right under the hood by the master cylinder for the brakes. the horn button activates the relay and the relay powers the horn.
 






we'll have to invest in some testers... I Think he was finally able to find them and they weren't hooked up. they didn't work and neither did the new one he bought (and hooked up as well). friend of the fam mechanic didn't show (again)so wasted our saturday when we could have taken it to the shop and had them break it down and give us real estimates and causes as well. He said try him again today -earlier. we are both doing research, but that's really what it's going to take - a shop. We need the tools and the know how! LOL my poor husband... thank you everyone for your help! updates as they come
 



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what is the right way to inquire about kansas city groups, good shops, parts on this site?
 






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