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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
Wife and I have a 2000 4 dr 4.0 SOHC Explorer. Been a great vehicle. For some reason I've neglected to change the plugs and wires on it it now has 175,000 miles. Is there any pointer I should know on removal so none of them break off? I really shouldnt have left it that long. I just hate working on vehicals being I work on commercial trucks and paint.
First spray down the plugs with a good penetrant like pb blaster or kroil. When I work on a used car with rusty plugs I do this a few times a few days before I remove the plugs and get the oil in when it is both hot and cold(on the warmup cycle and a cool down).
Maybe it is overkill but it sure beats a broken plug!
Then hope for the best, work the plugs back and forth as to not apply too much torque. As you break the plugs free, and feel resistance, spray the threads again generously with penetrant and come back in 15 min. You get the idea.
At that mileage you want new Motorcraft wires if they are originals!
Like the other poster said, spray the penetrant a few days before hand, and probably with engine warm is best. Also spray it when the engine is cold. And you should remove them with the engine dead cold, like first thing in the morning. If you do that, its highly unlikely you will have an issue. Most plugs are broken from someone cranking on them when they are not and no penetrant. Mine had 140k on them and they came out very easily. I don't think I used any penetrant at all, just did it when it was cold and used a reasonable amount of torque. If they feel too tight, STOP!
I know everyone says that the plugs are hard to get to, but I had absolutely no trouble at all. I reached every plug from the top and with only a spark plug socket, 3/8 socket wrench and 2 different size extensions one short and one medium length.
I had been reading all the horror stories of how difficult it was that I kept putting it off. If you have any mechanical skill at all it should be a piece of cake!!
+1 for what koda said. My 2000 had been WAY over due when I bought it. I'm lucky as my brother is a Ford mechanic. We popped out the splash shields and used a 4' extension. Reached them from beyond the tire and had to use a breaker bar to crack them loose. He said this is the best way to get at them when they're seized up. Oiling them up might make all the difference though. I'd be apt to try both.
yeah, going in from the fender is the only way to go as far as i'm concerned. you can do it from the top, but why would you? it's absolutely a piece of cake going through the fender. using a penetrating oil is a real good idea, as well as working a stuck plug back-and-forth to clear the threads. using anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs and dielectric grease on the boots is also a real good idea.
the last time this question came up, one poster said he always used an impact wrench and has never broken a plug. i find this interesting because, while it sounds scary, if you're familiar with how an impact gun works, it's much less likely to break a bolt, or lug stud, than using a breaker bar or ratchet with extra leverage. this is because it doesn't put a lot of torque on the bolt. don't believe me? try using one on an alternator pulley nut while holding the pulley/fan with your bare hand. the pulley really doesn't try to turn at all. i might just try this method the next time i have a stuck plug.
All I know is that 2 weeks ago I changed all 6 plugs in less than 20 min from the top. You are telling me that it is easier to jack up the front end, place jack stands, remove splash guards and then change the plugs!
I don't think so!!
Also a 4' extension with a breaker bar!! It would be miracle if you didn't break the plugs off!
All I know is that 2 weeks ago I changed all 6 plugs in less than 20 min from the top. You are telling me that it is easier to jack up the front end, place jack stands, remove splash guards and then change the plugs!
I don't think so!!
Also a 4' extension with a breaker bar!! It would be miracle if you didn't break the plugs off!
You don't need to jack the wheels off the ground or use jack stands. I replaced the OE splash shield retainers with reusable push rivets, so removing and reinstalling them takes no time at all. I use a 12" extension with a regular socket and have never broken a plug, you just have to keep it centered (which is easy because you can use two hands). I changed 8 plugs in under 20 minutes. You can continue do yours any way you like.
Listen here is the deal in a 6 cylinder like in the original post and what we are talking about here, there is no reason not to go from the top. It is fairly simple. On an 8 cylinder it is a little tougher to get to and would make sense to go through the wheel well.
May be the difference between the OHV and SOHC. The SOHC passenger rear #3 plug is difficult to access
from the top. I turned the wheel maximum left to replace it. Most with the SOHC have done #3 from below.
If you have them rusted in place like I had, you will understand what we are talking about when we say to go trough the wheel well (wheel can stay in place):
Hey, I'm just giving the OP a choice. Like i said, you can continue to do it any way you like. As far as the push rivets, there are other reasons for having to remove the splash shields (like changing the upper control arms) so having reusable rivets just makes sense. You'll probably break some of the original push pins trying to remove them anyway. If you're concerned about the added cost, try skipping a cheeseburger or a latte...
