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How do i change my IAC sensor on my 1994 ford explorer 4×4 and can i grab it off a1991 explorer?
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J_C
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Welcome to the forum!
Yes it looks like a '91 and a '94 4.0L OHV use the same IAC part #, but do you really want to replace your old one, presumably worn out (or maybe just dirty), with an even older one (probably also dirty)?
Edit: I'm assuming the issue is only soot buildup, or bushing drying out. In theory it's also possible the solenoid windings shorted out, but I've never heard of this happening to anyone's IAC.
You could try cleaning it out (brake cleaner, etc), shake out excess solvent, prop it up on end with the motor (aka solenoid) bushing at the bottom and put a drop of light oil on the piston shaft at the bushing, leave it sit like that for a few hours for the oil to make its way down into the bushing. That was all I needed to do for mine (different part # but similar design) on my '98.
Edit: I just noticed, the way that yours is constructed, it appears to have two machine screws holding the solenoid onto the valve body, so it might be possible (or might not, I don't have one to fiddle with
) to take the solenoid off and even more thoroughly clean and lube it. If unsure, I would just leave it together, but these don't cost much so I'd feel compelled, personally, to take the screws out and See What Happens (lol).
It just bolts on. Two bolts, probably 10mm or so. There may be a rubber gasket under it that you can reuse, or if it's paper or it's damaged, you can use a paper gasket instead, bought or just DIY cut it out of gasket material from most auto parts stores.
Yes it looks like a '91 and a '94 4.0L OHV use the same IAC part #, but do you really want to replace your old one, presumably worn out (or maybe just dirty), with an even older one (probably also dirty)?
Edit: I'm assuming the issue is only soot buildup, or bushing drying out. In theory it's also possible the solenoid windings shorted out, but I've never heard of this happening to anyone's IAC.
You could try cleaning it out (brake cleaner, etc), shake out excess solvent, prop it up on end with the motor (aka solenoid) bushing at the bottom and put a drop of light oil on the piston shaft at the bushing, leave it sit like that for a few hours for the oil to make its way down into the bushing. That was all I needed to do for mine (different part # but similar design) on my '98.
Edit: I just noticed, the way that yours is constructed, it appears to have two machine screws holding the solenoid onto the valve body, so it might be possible (or might not, I don't have one to fiddle with
) to take the solenoid off and even more thoroughly clean and lube it. If unsure, I would just leave it together, but these don't cost much so I'd feel compelled, personally, to take the screws out and See What Happens (lol).It just bolts on. Two bolts, probably 10mm or so. There may be a rubber gasket under it that you can reuse, or if it's paper or it's damaged, you can use a paper gasket instead, bought or just DIY cut it out of gasket material from most auto parts stores.
1994 FORD EXPLORER 4.0L V6 Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve | Shop Now at RockAuto
Fuel & Air Parts and More for Your 1994 FORD EXPLORER at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.
www.rockauto.com
1994 FORD EXPLORER 4.0L V6 Idle Air Control Valve Gasket | Shop Now at RockAuto
Fuel & Air Parts and More for Your 1994 FORD EXPLORER at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.
www.rockauto.com
rjb5191
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I also have the 2 piece valve. Correct me if I'm wrong but it doesn't appear to me that there is a bushing, and the shaft of the valve appears to be the plunger of solenoid. I'm not sure what there is to actually lubricate in this case but I may be totally wrong. Taking it apart does give you better access to clean and dry the valve though.Welcome to the forum!
Yes it looks like a '91 and a '94 4.0L OHV use the same IAC part #, but do you really want to replace your old one, presumably worn out (or maybe just dirty), with an even older one (probably also dirty)?
Edit: I'm assuming the issue is only soot buildup, or bushing drying out. In theory it's also possible the solenoid windings shorted out, but I've never heard of this happening to anyone's IAC.
You could try cleaning it out (brake cleaner, etc), shake out excess solvent, prop it up on end with the motor (aka solenoid) bushing at the bottom and put a drop of light oil on the piston shaft at the bushing, leave it sit like that for a few hours for the oil to make its way down into the bushing. That was all I needed to do for mine (different part # but similar design) on my '98.
Edit: I just noticed, the way that yours is constructed, it appears to have two machine screws holding the solenoid onto the valve body, so it might be possible (or might not, I don't have one to fiddle with
It just bolts on. Two bolts, probably 10mm or so. There may be a rubber gasket under it that you can reuse, or if it's paper or it's damaged, you can use a paper gasket instead, bought or just DIY cut it out of gasket material from most auto parts stores.
1994 FORD EXPLORER 4.0L V6 Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve | Shop Now at RockAuto
Fuel & Air Parts and More for Your 1994 FORD EXPLORER at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.www.rockauto.com
1994 FORD EXPLORER 4.0L V6 Idle Air Control Valve Gasket | Shop Now at RockAuto
Fuel & Air Parts and More for Your 1994 FORD EXPLORER at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.www.rockauto.com
J_C
Explorer Addict
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- 1998 XLT 4WD 4.0L SOHC
^ The bushing is what stabilizes (and causes drag if dry/dirty) the solenoid shaft. It's probably some sort of sintered bronze type, similar to those used in rotary motors.
Here is a diagram of the later generation IAC, showing where to put a drop of light oil, with it oriented as pictured so gravity causes the oil to flow down into the bushing. I also like to put a little oil on the spring seats at the top, but the area indicated by the arrow is bound to cause more drag over time, and wear more without lube in it.
Here is a diagram of the later generation IAC, showing where to put a drop of light oil, with it oriented as pictured so gravity causes the oil to flow down into the bushing. I also like to put a little oil on the spring seats at the top, but the area indicated by the arrow is bound to cause more drag over time, and wear more without lube in it.
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