How do you remove engine air filter assembly from a 1999 Ford Explorer Limited V8

[HenryTS77]

I need to remove the air filter assembly ( actually the air filter box the filter sits in) in order to gain access to a hold down bolt on the coolant reserve (the coolant tank and washer fluid tank are a one piece unit) which is on the sloped part of the fender and is impossible to get to without removing the air filter box - I have tried swivel sockets and flexible nut driver with no luck I need to get the tanks off so I can replace the blower motor (an arctic blast is heading this way!). I have read on here that you just to keep pulling on it - no luck. I then found a diagram online (which I will try and post below) that makes it look that you first have to pull up on one end and then pull it away from the fender- no such luck here - what am I missing here???????

 

[swshawaii]

Lubricate the rubber air box grommets and PULL.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1653408&postcount=4

 

[HenryTS77]

Lubricate the rubber air box grommets and PULL.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1653408&postcount=4

Thanks for your quick reply and calling my attention to that other thread . I went out and tried it by spraying the air box grommets with WD40 and let it sit for a while. The pegs attaching the air filter box to the fender have loosened up but the bottom pegs are holding tight. The only tool I could get into that area was a brake tool to try and pry up the box with no luck.


Sorry if the following is a dumb question but I have not come across this configuration before and don't want to break anything. On the air filter box there is a large air intake nozzle facing the front grill protruding into the the air filter box and the other end going through a panel toward the front grill. Does this nozzle have to be removed ( I have not seen it in any illustrations I have found) and if so how do you remove it. I have tried twisting it,prying it and pulling on it with no luck. Any help will be greatly appreciated

 

[swshawaii]

I believe you're referring to the "silencer". IIRC, it's not fastened to
anything, and is part of the air box. Searched "air box removal" but
didn't find a specific procedure. I found releasing the two side fender
grommets first will give you added movement for the bottom. Pry bar?

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2694443&postcount=10

 

[HenryTS77]

I'll have to try the pry bar again tomorrow as I did try it today after noticing thethe fender pegs had loosened up both at each fender grommet and between them and it appeared the air filter box was bending more than the pegs were coming out and I was afraid I'll break the box.


The reason I was wondering if the Silencer/Air Intake Duct can be remove is where it comes out of the air filter box it goes through a plastic panel that has an opening just larger than the duct so would limit the upward movement when trying to pull up on the box to release the lower pegs from the grommets. If worst come to worst I guess I can always use a chisel to cut away the the one mounting leg on the coolant tank- I really don't want to resort to such drastic measures but in a couple days it will be in the low teens during the day and 0 or below at night

 

[HenryTS77]

Just a quick question before I mes things up. As I mentioned above if I can't remove the air cleaner box I plan on cutting through one of the hold down legs on the coolant reserve so I can change the blower motor. I have read that if you break the mounting pegs on the air filter box it will be fine but I am more worried about breaking the box but what about removing the one hold-down leg on the coolant/windshield washer tank assembly. I do not plan on taking it off road so it should. be bounced around.

 

[xpolice-explorer]

I have read that if you break the mounting pegs on the air filter box it will be fine but I am more worried about breaking the box but what about removing the one hold-down leg on the coolant/windshield washer tank assembly. I do not plan on taking it off road so it should. be bounced around.

Either should not cause too many problems IMHO. However I would work on getting the air box out, it is a PITA to twist it up out of there especially for the first time, but mainly because you'll need to remove it if you ever need to change the pass side headlight too. Once you do get it out put a little dab of grease in the grommets so they wont seize on again.

 

[HenryTS77]

Either should not cause too many problems IMHO. However I would work on getting the air box out, it is a PITA to twist it up out of there especially for the first time, but mainly because you'll need to remove it if you ever need to change the pass side headlight too. Once you do get it out put a little dab of grease in the grommets so they wont seize on again.

Unfortunately I had to resort to using a chisel on the one hold-down foot of the tank assembly since when I was prying up on the air filter box it started to crack between the lower hold down pegs. I chiseled away the leg just past the hold-down nut so I could slide the leg off the nut and then slide it back on and it will be easier to remove in the future which will be soon I guess as the blower vibrates very loudly ( but that is a matter for another thread). Thanks for the tip on the passenger headlight -I'll work on removing the air filter box next time I have the tanks off.- failing that I will try and find a housing at a salvage yard.

 

[shadowless127]

Just do what I did; $12 MAF adapter off ebay, and a cone filter from advance auto/autozone. I did away with my stock airbox and couldn't be happier with the results.

 

[ambrosiaB]

thank you for this thread! I got mine out finally after a small amount of panicking!!

 

[tchalm]

Got mine out by pulling and wiggling on the bottom corner of the box closest to the engine first, then the bottom front, then the two side grommets were easy.

 

[nkfroth]

Rather than brute force with a hammer and chisel, use a hole saw. Cleaner edges are easier to seal. Most Ac Hardware stores keep a wide selection of specialty fasteners including rubber faced washers to seal the air box. Use a bolt long enough to protrude into OEM mounting grommets. Specialty fasteners known as elevator bolts also have a thin, broad flat head would be ideal.