How hard is it to remove a driveline? | Ford Explorer Forums

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How hard is it to remove a driveline?

IronCamel

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December 26, 2005
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City, State
LV, NV
Year, Model & Trim Level
94 XLT (Manual)
My U-Joint connecting to my rear transfer case is about to go. It's to the point that I have about an inch and a half of play in the driveline. Obviously I'm not going to be driving it anytime soon but I have to get it somewhere I can work on it. The only option seems to be dropping the driveline and removing it (probably just do both while I'm under there) that way and then replacing the driveline. How hard is getting the driveline out? Is it bolted at both ends or just the transfer case end (had trouble seeing it was dark)?

Thanks for any help.
 



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It has a flange on both ends that connects it to the t-case (front) and rear axle (rear). You'll need a 12 point wrench/socket (12mm if I remember right) for the back. I think the front (t-case end) is the same. You'll probably want to spray it with some PB blaster/liquid wrench or some other thing like that.
 






so just pull those bolts on the flange and it should fall right out?
 






It doesn’t always fall out, but yeah that’s the idea. The front shaft is a little more difficult then the rear.

The front requires some Torx bits, T-15 or T-20 if I remember correctly, and a 12 point 8mm wrench. You might be able to fit a 1/4 drive up there.
 






On the rear driveshaft assembly you may need to put a screwdriver between the flange on the driveshaft and pinion.
 






Thanks guys, I'll give it a go when I get home and let ya'll know.
 






Mark the flanges, punch or grease pencil so the install as they were removed
 






Well I got under there after spraying penetrating oil on the bolts last night. Imagine my surprise when 3 of the bolts came off with just my FINGERS. I think I found why my u-joint is so screwed. One cap is almost off of it. I was wondering if it was safe to use a different bolt. It will be the same size and strength except a little longer so I can secure the back with a nut. I figure a nut and some blue locktight should keep the bolts on better than just a bolt in a hole.

Is there any unforseen consequence with this?
 






locktight might be a bad idea... the u-joint is bound to go out again. just torque your bolts down properly. mine have never had problems staying put, and removed the driveshaft a few times (t-case swap, u-joint replacement, and removing the rear axle)
 






I finally got all the damn bolts loose and they have red lock tight or silicone on them so I'm sure someone took it off before unless that's how it was done at the factory. I'm having trouble getting the driveline off the rear transfer case though. There are no bolts in it, but it won't come off. Any ideas?
 






take a flat tip screw driver and put inbetween the driveline flange and the t-case, and hamer it in. be careful, because when it comes loose, it will just drop. there might be a air gap to stick the flat head in, i'm not sure, that might just be the diff. but you just need to break the years of adhesion from rust by beating it apart.

there is no special trick to it or anything. its just 2 flat pieces that mate up to each other and are bolted together. no hidden clamps or screws. just 4 bolts.
 






got it. Am I correct in assuming that I can lock my hubs, put it in 4-HI, and drive it like a front wheel drive? If so, what's the fastest I should keep it under.
 






I wouldn't recommend doing that for long periods of time or at speeds over 40.
 






Hello, Help! I'm doing the same thing with my 97 explorer. I've sprayed the rear driveshaft bolts twice within a 3 day period and they won't come loose.. Any ideas ... does the car have to be in neutral or park ... does it matter, I need to get the bolts loose to the rear I've already removed the front drive shaft and also have the bolts out of the trasfer case already... thanks
 






if the car is in neutral, the driveshaft might spin while you apply torque trying to break the nuts. but... just use some pipe over the ratchet to break em free.
 






Thanks for the tip, tried a pipe the other day but wasn't enough clearance, gonna try an air ratchet, the bolts are rusted on good, no play at all
 






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