How strong is AWD on the 5.0?

[Rockey]

I plan on making some passes down the 1/4 mile this weekend and if things go as planned I should drop the 347 I have in the X within the next month or two. Then more drag racing.

What I'm getting at is how long will the AWD be able to take some hard, hard launches? What will break first? Who has broken anything on the drivetrain in the AWD?

 

[kblackav8or]

I would be suspicious of the transfer and some of the front end components. The tranny is reasonably strong but you will definitely be shortening it's life.

 

[terdrocket]

It has been plenty strong for me, knock on wood.

I am running 32" Goodyear MT/Rs that are pretty heavy, have a chip, shift kit, intake and exhaust. I try to spin the tires any chance I get. (They don't break loose too often)

 

[Oversquare]

Let us know when you find the weak link. I'm taking my X out to the track today (Sears Point/Infinion Raceway) to see what she'll do.

I'm betting the trans or the u-joints will be the first to fail. But if you're spinning the tires with AWD, then the transfer case should be the first to go.

Enjoy!

-B

 

[Rockey]

I'll try my best to break something this weekend then.

I can't believe no one here hasn't broke anything on the drivetrain in the 5.0.

 

[BigBadWimp]

Probably not for lack of trying...

 

[Rockey]

True, I'm sure many of us live by the words - Drive it like you stole it.

 

[Billy177]

you might want to invest in a shift kit

 

[Mbrooks420]

I'll try my best to break something this weekend then.

I can't believe no one here hasn't broke anything on the drivetrain in the 5.0.

5.0 drivetrains aren't bullet proof, and I'm sure several members have ruined t-cases and trannys.

 

[Hartman]

I'd say either the t-case or CVs.

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

My money is on the viscous coupler in the t-case or the front driveshaft CV where it couples to the t-case. The driveshaft CVs are the only common failure item, even more so than the t-case.

Carry tools to remove the driveshaft, so you can drive home if it pops.

 

[tmsoko]

Not sure about the front end, I would expect the small ring and pinion to go first. I have heard the 4404 can actually handle quite a bit of power. I have been running it behind my Kenne Bell blown 5.0L with 353lb ft of torque and no problems I have extremely firm shifts as well thanks to the Baumann shift kit and the electronic firmness upgrade in my SCT chip. I would not be concerned in the least - about the t-case anyhow. The front diff...

 

[cdsl227]

I'd take a good look at the cheesey welds on the front diffy-to-frame. I'm doing my SAS right now because the mount at the input end of the diffy "broke" off of the frame rail. It took a whole square out of the back of the frame rail.

But then I've been beating the hell out of it since I got it- with no problems at all.

 

[Nitrous SSC]

Sweet. Definatly get some pics and movies of this beast!

What Stall TQ converter are you using? If stock I think you won't put to much shock on the drivetrain. It would be cool to see an X get 1.7 60's with AWD

 

[Cali' Explorer]

Honestly, I don't think you're going to break anything related tot he T-Case because of hard launching. Since the T-Case transfer power full time to the rear, the rear will take the majority of the impact of a hard launch. The front probably won't get full power unless you somehow can get the rears to break loose, otherwise the speed differential between the front and rear probably won't ever cause the T-Case to lock up.

I would agree with one of the above. I would say it will either be U-Joints or possibly something in the rear, but I doubt it will be something in the front unless its something that's already on its way out the door.

I have done a few full 4-wheel spinouts in the x (only in the rain, and only right after it started raining). The best I have been able to get is about 1 - 2 seconds of slippage, and that's with doing it while pulling a turn. Overall, breaking traction with the AWD 5.0 is very difficult, but maybe with a 347 it might be a bit easier

 

[raginraj]

i was under the impression the AWD t-case on the 5.0s was 50/50 front to rear ALL the time. i know that the control trac X's with the Auto mode are usually about 5/95 front to rear until the rear wheels start slipping. i recall reading somewhere (most likely another thread on this site) that stated that the AWD system was just that: all the wheels get roughly equivalent power until wheel slippage is detected. so unless your front wheels are spinning free you won't get more than 60 or 70 percent power to the rear wheels. but... i could be wrong so educated me if i am.

 

[Cali' Explorer]

Well, its hard to say where the power goes. The AWD T-Case in the 5.0's is a Borg Warner 4404. THis is a 100% mechanical T-Case. It uses a viscous coupling to transfer power to the front wheels. When there is a speed variation between the front and rear wheels, this fluid heats up. As it heats up, it gets thicker and causes the T-Case to lock up more.

The big difference betweent his and electronic T-Cases is that the linkage from the Transmission to the Rear Axle throught the T-Case is solid. If you were to remove all the innards of the T-Case, there would still be a solid shaft that goes from the Transmission, through the T-Case and to the Output shaft of the T-Case. This means that the rear wheels are always spun at the Exact speed of the Transmission. When people say that you get 50/50 power to front and rear, its hard to say honestly. Where the power goes changes based upon how hot the viscous fluid gets.

The key here is the Speed variation. For example, if you were to lift the X totally off the ground, the output for the rear axle from the T-Case would spin at the exact same speed as the input to the T-Case. The front wheels would probably spin at about 20 - 40% of the speed of the rear. If you were to accelerate heavily on the lift, the viscous fluid in the T-Case would heat up and cause it to lock up. The front wheels would start closing the gap in speed between the front and rear. If you pushed it hard enough, you would get the front and rears to spin at the exact same speed. At this point, you would "Technically" have a 50/50 power split, but as you can see, its not quite so cut and dry.

The nice thing about the function of this T-Case is that the front is always powered. So, you could probably say that the front always gets about 20% power, but another big difference between this and an electornic T-Case. With an Electronic T-Case, the front is either engaged or not. There is no middle ground, and the Computer can turn it on and off very quickly if needed. I personally feel though that the AWD in the 5.0's is far better for a daily driver. THe place the Electronic T-Case really shines is in off-roading, because you can solidly lock the front end in, where in the AWD T-Case in the 5.0's, you can not "Lock"the front Axle in.

Hope this clears up some confusion on the Function of the AWD T-Case

 

[V8BoatBuilder]

Well said.

 

[Nitrous SSC]

So basicly what I need to do is get a heating torch and nuke my T-case before I go wheeling

Also I'll comment That I drive my AWD very hard. I love driving in the snow/slick mud because I can flip 180's and 360's with ease and the control in the snow is excellent. From the hole it should launch pretty good.

 

[Oversquare]

It launched a little too good this past Wed night at Sears point. I tried every different launching technique and was still cutting the lights too close, or often red-lighting. I found the best was to stage as shallow as possible and leave 1/2 way through the 3rd yellow light. Typically, that's waaay too late. But in the X, i was pulling about .6 RT's consistantly with this technique (on an .5oo perfect light).

-B