gearnuts
New Member
- Joined
- June 20, 2021
- Messages
- 1
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- GREER
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 2017 explorer sport
2017 Explorer Sport - 3.5L EcoBoost - Team RXP new(er) version twin can installed at 30k miles
The older version of this can required drilling and had a small breather that replaced the oil filler cap, but the updated one (~2019) leaves that alone and adds the small can for the clean side. This version is plug and play.
I had one of these on my 3.5L Transit and was very pleased. They have a few videos on the site from other Fords but I didn't see a longitudinal model with complete instructions so I thought this might be helpful.
These are definitely not the cheapest cans out there but I think they are the most complete for boost and non-boost conditions and have excellent build quality. I plan to keep the vehicle for a very long time so consider this an investment in engine longevity.
I will add an update in 5000 miles at my next oil change.
These are the 2 hoses you will use on valve covers.
Remove PCV hose from intake and valve cover
Install a 90 degree fitting to the valve cover PCV and run hose under ducting, master cylinder, and battery around back of air box cavity into fender cavity where you can mount the cans. This line has no check valve and mounts to center of the big can.
Install a 90 degree fitting to the intake and run hose along same path as PCV hose above. Add a check valve somewhere inline and point it away from the can. I added mine under the airbox and did not have any clearance issues. This line mounts to either side of the big can.
Follow the hose on the lower valve cover with the crankcase MAP sensor on it, do not need to disconnect.
Follow to the driver side turbo and disconnect the inlet.
Install a straight fitting on the turbo inlet and a section of hose then install a Tee fitting. Continue the hose under the air duct and battery, behind the air box cavity following the same route as the other 2 hoses from the PCV valve cover. Add a check valve inline somewhere, pointing away from the can, I added it in the same place at the back of the air box cavity but a few inches away from the other one to minimize vertical height. This line mounts to the other side of the big can.
Install a hose to the Tee that routes beside the transmission and under the frame rail to the side port of the small can.
Install a straight hose adapter to the line with the crankcase sensor that was connected to the turbo inlet. Run the hose under the air box mounting plate and around to the front of the cavity then down to the top of the small can with a 90 degree adapter.
This is for reference only: The kit came with all 90 degree adapters for the top of the cans, but there was no room to install them, so I got 3 straight connectors for big can and had no problem with space. I'm showing the connections here, but there is not enough clearance to push the can into the mount from the bottom. So cut the lines to length and install the adapters, mount the can, and install the outside 2 first, then the center. (No clearance if you mount center before sides)
Shows final installation from underneath. There are 3 8mm bolts in the fender skirt that I recommend removing and fold back the skirt to get adequate access. Should be easy to drain from the ball valves this way.
For the side can, I slid the can down from above and tightened the mount. You can push the top adapter on from above, but I found it easier to mount the side port from underneath, you just push on. Then route it up to the Tee. It was rubbing on the frame rail so I split a section of hose and zip tied it to prevent it from chafing.
I made a legend to show the routing of the hoses.
Here is the diagram from the website teamrxp.com, there were no instructions in the box, but with this diagram it is very easy to follow and setup. The hardest part is cutting the hose to the right length and routing it to avoid interferences, etc.
Looking forward to keeping most of the junk out of circulation.
The older version of this can required drilling and had a small breather that replaced the oil filler cap, but the updated one (~2019) leaves that alone and adds the small can for the clean side. This version is plug and play.
I had one of these on my 3.5L Transit and was very pleased. They have a few videos on the site from other Fords but I didn't see a longitudinal model with complete instructions so I thought this might be helpful.
These are definitely not the cheapest cans out there but I think they are the most complete for boost and non-boost conditions and have excellent build quality. I plan to keep the vehicle for a very long time so consider this an investment in engine longevity.
I will add an update in 5000 miles at my next oil change.
These are the 2 hoses you will use on valve covers.
Remove PCV hose from intake and valve cover
Install a 90 degree fitting to the valve cover PCV and run hose under ducting, master cylinder, and battery around back of air box cavity into fender cavity where you can mount the cans. This line has no check valve and mounts to center of the big can.
Install a 90 degree fitting to the intake and run hose along same path as PCV hose above. Add a check valve somewhere inline and point it away from the can. I added mine under the airbox and did not have any clearance issues. This line mounts to either side of the big can.
Follow the hose on the lower valve cover with the crankcase MAP sensor on it, do not need to disconnect.
Follow to the driver side turbo and disconnect the inlet.
Install a straight fitting on the turbo inlet and a section of hose then install a Tee fitting. Continue the hose under the air duct and battery, behind the air box cavity following the same route as the other 2 hoses from the PCV valve cover. Add a check valve inline somewhere, pointing away from the can, I added it in the same place at the back of the air box cavity but a few inches away from the other one to minimize vertical height. This line mounts to the other side of the big can.
Install a hose to the Tee that routes beside the transmission and under the frame rail to the side port of the small can.
Install a straight hose adapter to the line with the crankcase sensor that was connected to the turbo inlet. Run the hose under the air box mounting plate and around to the front of the cavity then down to the top of the small can with a 90 degree adapter.
This is for reference only: The kit came with all 90 degree adapters for the top of the cans, but there was no room to install them, so I got 3 straight connectors for big can and had no problem with space. I'm showing the connections here, but there is not enough clearance to push the can into the mount from the bottom. So cut the lines to length and install the adapters, mount the can, and install the outside 2 first, then the center. (No clearance if you mount center before sides)
Shows final installation from underneath. There are 3 8mm bolts in the fender skirt that I recommend removing and fold back the skirt to get adequate access. Should be easy to drain from the ball valves this way.
For the side can, I slid the can down from above and tightened the mount. You can push the top adapter on from above, but I found it easier to mount the side port from underneath, you just push on. Then route it up to the Tee. It was rubbing on the frame rail so I split a section of hose and zip tied it to prevent it from chafing.
I made a legend to show the routing of the hoses.
Here is the diagram from the website teamrxp.com, there were no instructions in the box, but with this diagram it is very easy to follow and setup. The hardest part is cutting the hose to the right length and routing it to avoid interferences, etc.
Looking forward to keeping most of the junk out of circulation.
