How to flush out a cooling system? | Ford Explorer Forums

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How to flush out a cooling system?

pierson181

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City, State
Jackson, TN
Year, Model & Trim Level
2006 Ford Ranger
I have a 2003 Ford explorer 4.0 liter and it has 161000 miles on it and the radiator fluid has never been changed. I was wondering if anyone on here could give me directions on how to do this? I read on online that I could take off the bottom radiator hose and let it drain out and then stick a water hose in the top radiator hose and flush out the whole thing can I do it? I just want a way to clean out the whole cooling system and the radiator and get all of the junk out of it. Thanks!
 



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There is a petcock valve on the bottom passenger side of the radiator. It is a plastic bolt, I believe ~¾" size. Loosen that and you will drain the coolant. Then you can flush/refill from the overflow tank on the passenger fender.
 






I have a 2003 Ford explorer 4.0 liter and it has 161000 miles on it and the radiator fluid has never been changed.>>>>>>>>>>>>

That is way too long to go before changing engine coolant.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>I was wondering if anyone on here could give me directions on how to do this? I read on online that I could take off the bottom radiator hose and let it drain out and then stick a water hose in the top radiator hose and flush out the whole thing can I do it? I just want a way to clean out the whole cooling system and the radiator and get all of the junk "out of it. Thanks!>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Taking off the bottom radiator hose won't flush out the heater core. It will just empty the radiator faster than thru the petcock. The Haynes Manual says to remove the expansion tank cap and drain out the old coolant first thru the petcock or as much as you can get to come out. Then remove the Thermostat and re-install the t-stat housing without the t-stat and remove the top radiator hose at the radiator ,and insert a garden hose into the rad opening and turn on the water. The old coolant will then be forced down thru the radiator and up thru the water pump, up thru the cylinder heads and back past the removed t-stat and then out of the system thru the opened end of the upper rad hose where you disconnected it at from the rad. The manual doesn't specify if this method flushes out the heater core, but it will flush out the whole engine block and radiator. There is a heater core flush kit made by Prestone that you can connect into the heater core hose and connect up a garden hose to the Prestone kit T-connection, and flush out the heater core that way. Once you get nothing but clear water coming out, you are done flushing the system.
Now drain out as much of the clean water as you can and close the petcock, re-connect your upper radiator hose to radiator, install a "new" t-stat (2003 V-6 t-stat is temp range 194 to 210 F degrees) and use a new O-ring seal. Tighten the t-stat housing bolts to 89 inch lbs of torque. Use a torque wrench to tighten down the bolts. Once that is done, start re-filling the system thru the expansion tank with at least a 50/50 mix of coolant and "distilled" water. Go with a 60 coolant/40 water mix if you live in an extreme temp area. Remember there is some plain water still in the engine and or heater core, so test the coolant mix just before final topping off for proper, temp protection level. Prestone also sells a coolant tester, think it's called a "Hydrometer"? Once filled up to the full level mark on your expansion tank, start the engine with the inside heater controls turned to hot temp, blower fan on high and wait for the engine to heat up and open the t-stat. Once the t-stat opens (look at engine temp gauge for normal operating range), start feeling dash vents for hot air and you should see the fluid level drop in the expansion tank while the engine sucks in more coolant thru it after the t-stat opened up. Add more coolant when this happens to expansion tank and fill it back up to the full mark. Install the expansion tank cap now and keeping checking the dash vents for proper heat. If you get good heat and the expansion tank is to the full mark, you are done. Check for any leaks. ( Always re-check the coolant level in the expansion tank the next day after you ran the vehicle and it had time over night to totally cool down. It may or may not suck in more coolant thru the system. Add more if necessary. If not getting heat thru the vents, you may have air in the system from the draining and refilling process. If this happens, start squeezing the upper radiator hose by hand to expell any air from the system. Wear work gloves to protect your hands and keep your hands away from any moving engine parts, fan/pulleys and belt. Keep doing this till you don't see any more air bubbles coming up in the expansion tank. Check for heat again at the dash vents. If no heat yet, take it for a short drive leaving the heater set to hot temp and fan on high speed. This is how I did my flush and fill on my 2005 Explorer V-6 last May and how I got rid of air in the system and it worked for me. Only thing is, I didn't flush out the entire system like you want to do and I didn't remove the t-stat for flushing out purposes, just replaced it with a new one and I didn't do the upper radiator hose removal for garden hose flushing. I just opened the petcock and drained out 2 3/4 gallons of old coolant, flushed expansion tank and radiator by flushing with clean water from a hose at the expansion tank, then drained to clear, and refilled with new coolant. My old coolant wasn't that old and was clean. BTW, the entire system without auxillary climate controls( no rear heat), holds 16.3 quarts and if you do have auxillary climate controls(with rear heat), it holds 18.2 quarts. Each year I will drain and add 1 gallon of fresh coolant to keep the system fresh and up to proper protection levels along with good water pump lubrication just as regular maintenance. Hope this info helps with your coolant change.
 






^^^ good info though I'm **** and only use distilled water in my engine. I have well water and it'll rust up the cooling ports in the motor over time..not pretty trust me I've seen it happen.
 






^^^ good info though I'm **** and only use distilled water in my engine. I have well water and it'll rust up the cooling ports in the motor over time..not pretty trust me I've seen it happen.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I did mention using distilled water when re-filling with new coolant, but for flushing out purposes, I kind of assumed everyone had a garden hose at their home. Even though I'm a big city boy, raised on Erie County Water Authority flavored Lake Erie drinking/tap water, I also know the delcicious flavor and aroma of ironed up well water. I have a friend who owns a hunting camp in a small border town (Limestone, NY), just across the state line from Bradford, Pa. and spend a month or two each year hunting or riding 4 wheelers at, and he has well water. Rotten, ironed up well water that ever the friggin cat won't drink. Thankfully, he had a water purifier system installed and that only helped the taste a little. That whole area is well water.
 






>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I did mention using distilled water when re-filling with new coolant, but for flushing out purposes, I kind of assumed everyone had a garden hose at their home. Even though I'm a big city boy, raised on Erie County Water Authority flavored Lake Erie drinking/tap water, I also know the delcicious flavor and aroma of ironed up well water. I have a friend who owns a hunting camp in a small border town (Limestone, NY), just across the state line from Bradford, Pa. and spend a month or two each year hunting or riding 4 wheelers at, and he has well water. Rotten, ironed up well water that ever the friggin cat won't drink. Thankfully, he had a water purifier system installed and that only helped the taste a little. That whole area is well water.

Yeah I had UVA test my water before my filteration system and they said its the fifth highest solidified iron count they have ever tested...my moms hair would turn orange and oh couldn't wash clothes in it...I have to take extra caution...btw It is a artesian well....
 






Thanks everyone. So where exactly is the thermostat?
 












Thanks everyone. So where exactly is the thermostat?
>>>>>>>>>>>>

Follow the upper radiator hose to where it connects on top of the motor/intake manifold. The t-stat is right under that housing the hose is connected to and just sits inside there under that housing cover. Should be 3 bolts to remove that housing. Do your self a favor and buy a Haynes Manual that covers the model year of your Explorer at a parts store, cost approx $20-$25. They aren't the greatest repair manuals because they cover a wide, year range of Explorers, but they have quite a few pics and do help in finding where things are located on the vehicle. They also have step by step instructions and give fluid capacities and torque settings etc. They come in handy, better than having nothing to go by.
 






Just one caution I would like to make for owner coolant changes.

The block thermostat is activated on hot coolant, not the air temperature
within the block channels. If you manage to get all the water out of the block and the thermostat is cold, and you run the engine to hot, then heat could build up within the block before the thermostat activates to cool things down. By this time it will be too late, besides, when the thermostat does open, cold coolant(or hose water) will enter the super hot channels and that will cause damage to the block.

So of the methods suggested here for owner "backyard" coolant changes, the "drain rad then refill with clean water right away" method is the best. Just keep draining and closing the rad valve and refilling with water. Open heater to full while your doing this.

Never changed coolant on my Ranger yet, but I think you wouldn't need to do this more than 3 times before you get clear water.

Finally, fill rad with your one gallon 50/50 mix, and the remainder clean water and start it up to circulate.

You might avoid air trapping in the block by parking with the rear on a slight incline before you start. Check engine block angle.
 






Most of the info here will be correct and some may not...of course I'm not an expert either. I'll regergitate what I've heard and you can put it all together for yourself.

To start, a 50/50 mix isn't a bad way to go. But if you want better cooling performance, you're going to have to go outside the box....a little.

Straight coolant is actually a POOR mover of heat, meaning using less coolant and more water WILL cool better. The primary purpose of coolant with the water is to raise the boiling point, lower the freeze point, and to condition seals/lube bearings/& prevent rust & scale build-up which makes your cooling system last longer between maintenance intervals. The pressure that the radiator cap allows to build , in the system, to a certain level (typically 8 to 16 psi) also raises the boiling point of water, independently of the coolant.

There are products available to use in your cooling system to make it work better than just a 50/50 water/coolant mix. Some you use with coolant and water, some with just water. Evans Cooling has a fluid that has neither water or coolant. I just found their website. They have some impressive stuff.

I live in the Dallas, TX area so I need more cooling protection and less freeze protection so I never use 50/50. More like a mix w/ 70% water and then I use one of the products that reduces the surface tension of the water. Supposedly it makes the water pull the heat from the metal surfaces in the cooling jackets in the engine. I've been using the Amsoil products for the last two years and I'm very happy.

I also make every effort to use distilled water to keep particulates to a minimum. If it's worth it to you, I've seen where some have adapted filters to their cooling system. I'm not sure if specific kits are made and sold or if parts were just cobbled together.

Ultimately, you will have to make the choice what you can afford and what will work best for you.
Hope this helps.
 






Just stumbled upon this. I plan on doing a flush this weekend before the heart of winter really sets in! but man, you guys are sissies! In good ole Parma, Mi its a well water village. We joke about pouring oil onto the ground, and antifreeze into the ground ( we are just kidding of course ) On main st, there is city water connection, but its just coming from a well by the fire station with a few filters and not much for purifiers. We do have city sewer connection on main as well, but you would be better off with septic lol
 






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