TheHigherEnd
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- Joined
- November 4, 2010
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Hello, love the site, have been helped by it many times, as an early Explorer owner (1992 Sport) I can assure you I've thus far had many problems that lead to another, then another, etc.
Anyway, had a problem with my Driver's window that would sometimes work perfect, sometimes go crazy. It would roll itself down, up, down and keep grinding, etc. This, of course, is not acceptable going down the road, steering, shifting, and holding the window up. I had just pulled the fuse but no window action is lame as we all know.
Anyway, searching the forum led me to this thread:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=147521
Based on this (despite not being the same year) I went in and took action.
I removed the door panel and located a black box that (like everything else on this vehicle) was just hanging loose instead of being attached. It is attached to the bulb in the door panel light and looks like this:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
I unhooked the negative terminal on the battery, clipped the solid black wire which connects the auto-down mechanism (which I hate anyway btw). I capped it with electrical tape then capped the ends with wire nuts as shown:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
After putting the door back together the windows go up, down, and only when I tell them to. Now, this is a cheap fix for people like me who hate the auto-down anyway, but it works great. Couldn't be happier.
Please note, in the second picture there is an inviting, rectangular hole. The is NOT as far as I can tell where you tuck the black box. It impedes with the window going all the way down. Just place it on the ledge above this hole and lock it in place with your panel if you are too lazy to secure it there like I am.
Now, second is a myriad of driver door locking/opening problems. When I bought the car it would only open from the outside when holding the key in the unlock position and pulling the handle. It would only unlock from the inside when unlocked, then eventually only when unlocked from the outside, then neither from the inside, then a lot of jiggling of the key from the outside.
After taking apart the door panel I removed the two screws on the inside latch to find this:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
The hole/latch/connector that engages the door opener rod was broken. Here is a pic of the rod that opens the door here:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
I used super glue (Am going to reinforce it with plastic epoxy as soon as I get to the store and recommend you do too) and here is the piece put back together:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Threaded it back on the rod, put the door panel back on and success!
Went from only being able to open the outside door with the key held over, only able to open from the inside when the door was unlocked in a complex sequence to barely be unlocked (lock post was nearly sunk into the hole when unlocked and all the way in when locked) to the door unlocking and opening when pulled from the inside and opening from the outside with no key when it is unlocked. Now the lock post sticks out like half an inch when unlocked and is easily pushed down to lock before exiting the vehicle.
Remaining door problem is that the power locks work for the passenger and hatch but not the driver door, which I may delve into at a later date, but for now... I'm pretty stoked. No more scooting across the front and around the stick shift... no more opening the door at drive-thrus... woot!
Anyway, had a problem with my Driver's window that would sometimes work perfect, sometimes go crazy. It would roll itself down, up, down and keep grinding, etc. This, of course, is not acceptable going down the road, steering, shifting, and holding the window up. I had just pulled the fuse but no window action is lame as we all know.
Anyway, searching the forum led me to this thread:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums//showthread.php?t=147521
Based on this (despite not being the same year) I went in and took action.
I removed the door panel and located a black box that (like everything else on this vehicle) was just hanging loose instead of being attached. It is attached to the bulb in the door panel light and looks like this:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
I unhooked the negative terminal on the battery, clipped the solid black wire which connects the auto-down mechanism (which I hate anyway btw). I capped it with electrical tape then capped the ends with wire nuts as shown:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
After putting the door back together the windows go up, down, and only when I tell them to. Now, this is a cheap fix for people like me who hate the auto-down anyway, but it works great. Couldn't be happier.
Please note, in the second picture there is an inviting, rectangular hole. The is NOT as far as I can tell where you tuck the black box. It impedes with the window going all the way down. Just place it on the ledge above this hole and lock it in place with your panel if you are too lazy to secure it there like I am.
Now, second is a myriad of driver door locking/opening problems. When I bought the car it would only open from the outside when holding the key in the unlock position and pulling the handle. It would only unlock from the inside when unlocked, then eventually only when unlocked from the outside, then neither from the inside, then a lot of jiggling of the key from the outside.
After taking apart the door panel I removed the two screws on the inside latch to find this:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
The hole/latch/connector that engages the door opener rod was broken. Here is a pic of the rod that opens the door here:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
I used super glue (Am going to reinforce it with plastic epoxy as soon as I get to the store and recommend you do too) and here is the piece put back together:
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Threaded it back on the rod, put the door panel back on and success!
Went from only being able to open the outside door with the key held over, only able to open from the inside when the door was unlocked in a complex sequence to barely be unlocked (lock post was nearly sunk into the hole when unlocked and all the way in when locked) to the door unlocking and opening when pulled from the inside and opening from the outside with no key when it is unlocked. Now the lock post sticks out like half an inch when unlocked and is easily pushed down to lock before exiting the vehicle.
Remaining door problem is that the power locks work for the passenger and hatch but not the driver door, which I may delve into at a later date, but for now... I'm pretty stoked. No more scooting across the front and around the stick shift... no more opening the door at drive-thrus... woot!
