How to refurbish a 1998 Dimmer Switch | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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How to refurbish a 1998 Dimmer Switch

Hi Mike65,

For the record with regards to other forum members that read this thread in the future;

* What problem was your Ex suffering that made you put the sweat equity into the dimmer switch rebuild?

* Was the internal condition similar to my switch or?

* Was the rebuild a success or?

I rebuilt mine many years ago. Mine failed because of cold solder on the power transistor joint. I had no lighting. A local electronics shop (which is unfortunately out of business) did it for me and charged $20. I also cleaned the contacts with electric cleaner and used the grease, but that may have not been necessary. Working for about 7-8 years since.
 






Scored two dimmer switches gonna build one nice one using this method
Thanks !
 






Obtain some Dielectric Grease
Obtain Dielectric Grease for the reassembly process.

DO NOT substitute another type of grease, as this grease is meant to be used in an electrical application!!!

A tube costs about $5 and will last you for years.

View attachment 303394

Coat the Copper Circuit and the two black contact strips with Dielectric Grease
Essentially, coat the paths that the copper contact barrels ride on with Dielectric Grease.

View attachment 303395

Reassemble; Single Barrel goes toward two black contact strips. Dual Barrels go towards copper circuit strips. Press carefully back together

View attachment 303396

View attachment 303397

Since refurbishing my dimmer switch, it has worked perfect.
The switch holds the "high" setting, and there haven't been any more occasions of "self dimming instrument panel lights."

In the 10 years I've owned my Explorer, this forum has helped me with problems many times over. So it's my sincere hope this write-up helps someone that has experienced the same problem!
Sweet! Fixing mine now & running to the store for the grease & sand paper. Already got it apart! Thank you! Wish me luck!
 






Keep in mind, you can use steel wool, or a green (or more abrasive brown) scotch brite pad if you need to.

Also sometimes the auto parts stores sell $1 (maybe higher now... inflation) packets of dielectric grease at the counter if you don't need a whole tube, though I still don't think that's what Ford originally used (or else a petroleum solvent wouldn't dissolve away the original residue), but it should be a good fit for the application.
 






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