Hybridized 4405 T-case (97 and 98 parts) > stuck in 4hi - (Great Pics of the 4405!) | Page 2 | Ford Explorer Forums

  • Register Today It's free!

Hybridized 4405 T-case (97 and 98 parts) > stuck in 4hi - (Great Pics of the 4405!)

88mustanggt said:
can i ask does your case have a speed sensor and what model is it? is it a ga? (f77A)
well thats the one i have been askin for thinking it might be the one im after but im not sure.
ill check on this for you tomorrow cauz the transfer case is sitting outside in the shed and im deathly afraid of spiders - especially in the dark when i can't see them. i saw a plump orange one 2 days ago and i destroyed that spider with a can of Raid. that *******!! anyways, i should have the number for you by like 2:30pm (eastern daylight saving)
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.











here's the sticker on the 97 transfer case (the one with the speed sensor on the rear output).. so your right, the one you want is the 'GA' version.

tcase4405tag_97model.jpg


.
 






Got mine done yesterday morning, went well, took about 2 hrs. The only thing that I am concerned about is the torque specs of the nut on the output flange. I just impacted it down decent, didn't go overkill just till it stopped and a split second after. I would really like to know exactly though since there is a bearing in there and it would be easy to drop the rear driveshaft and torque it. I'm figuring somewhere around 175 ft-lbs is close?
 






well i went junk yarding and , i found nothing, nothing that looked good. heres what puzzeld me, i found a 7ga with a speed sensor, but it didnt have the tod sticker like all the other tod cases have. it had the 4 bolt output to the front not the cup. but this is the same number as mine and yours but was diffrent what gives? ]

i dono what to do next, i mean i could pull it back out of the truck open it up and hope its obvious why its not working correctly, but i doubt it will be obvious. any ideas?
 






and yea just zip it down with an impact and let it hit it a few times, dont sit there going ddadadadaddadadadadadada. ive gotin pretty accurate with the impact and i would say 130-175 should be good
 






88mustanggt said:
...found a 7ga with a speed sensor, but it didnt have the tod sticker like all the other tod cases have. it had the 4 bolt output to the front not the cup. but this is the same number as mine and yours but was diffrent what gives?
my guess is that this is from a 95 or 96 explorer - those might have came with the 4-bolt front output to mate with a double-cardan front driveshaft. below is an image of such a driveshaft (except this one is purely from a first generation - 91 to 94 ; ignore the arrow).
frontshaft.jpg
here is a cluseup of the end that connects to the transfer case:
frontshaft_tcaseend.jpg

does that look like what you found in the junk yard?

88mustanggt said:
i dono what to do next, i mean i could pull it back out of the truck open it up and hope its obvious why its not working correctly, but i doubt it will be obvious. any ideas?
you could go with that 7GA case that you found and get the driveshaft thats hooked up it (slide it in ur pants, the ppl at the yard will never know - and if they ask, just tell em u got the stiff leg from the vietnam war - even if ur not old enough ;) ). the other end should be the same (the end that goes to the differential) as your current driveshaft; so that driveshaft should bolt up to the differential.

this is what i did when i did my manual 13-54 transfer case swap - i used a driveshaft from a first generation (thats why i have those pictures above).

the only difference is that this driveshaft might a tad longer - so u just need to really compress it (the red arrow in the first image points to the compressible part) in order to get the u-joint to sit into the differential's input.

if u go with this transfer case aand driveshaft idea, one thing i would make sure before forking over money is that the electrical connectors are the same as your current case.

.
 






thanks man, should i be conserned at all that it didnt say tod anywhere on the case? all the other ones i saw said it
 






88mustanggt said:
thanks man, should i be conserned at all that it didnt say tod anywhere on the case? all the other ones i saw said it
you may want to ask gijoecam about that one cauz i'm not 100% sure. but my assumption is that the transfer case are the same. i guess just make sure the electrical connectors are the same. if not, i guess you can always just take ur old electric shift motor and put it in this one your getting from the yard. also make sure the electromagnetic clutch's brown wire is present. the electromagnetic ring, as im sure you've seen, is located at the back of the transfer case near the rear output shaft. so the wire should be somewhere around there.
 






IZwack said:
foto37%20ARNOLD.jpg
ahaha, what a governor!


You're just jealous. You probably have a girlie man governor (or a girl). :D

BTW - Nice Pictures of the 4405

I don't know the difference between the GA and CA either, but I'm curious.
 






dogfriend said:
You're just jealous. You probably have a girlie man governor (or a girl)
i DO have a girly man of a governor! but he's aaiight. :thumbsup:
 






pix

This is the planetary gear located at the front of the transfer case. At the other side of this gear set are the input splines of the transfer case that connects the transfer case to the output shaft of the transmission.
planetary2.jpg

The other part of the planetary gears is this gear pictures below. The position of this gear dictates whether the transfer case is in "HI" or "LO" position.
sliding_gear.jpg

The position of the gear above is controlled via the shift fork. The shift fork plus the gear pictured above looks like this:
shift_fork_slidinggear.jpg
 












How does the input and output bearing come off? DO you need a press?
Sorry I do not know.. perhaps Glacier does.

You might use a press but I would be careful as the casing is not steel (magnesium/aluminum) and is brittle.
 






Hi, I have the same problem with side to side and up and down play at the back of the tranfer case. I am going to buy repair kit (bearings, seals, fork,chain) from drivetrain.com but question is whether I need to remove the transfer case from the vehicle in order to change back bearing or I can do it with the case in the vehicle ?
 






I have the same issue, i just found out today. does anybody know the like exact procedure to do this? if someone does that would be excellent. also is this like normal for this to happen?
 






Re-reading this, I can offer that the chain in the 98 went from 1-1/4 inches wide (97 and earlier) down to 1" wide. (This answers an early post in this thread about chain differences.)
 






That output shaft play is caused by an ovalling of the bearing support in the case rear half. Omega Machine here in Sacramento offers a replacement rear case with that sleeved. A new bearing alone is not likely to solve it.
 






Re-reading this, I can offer that the chain in the 98 went from 1-1/4 inches wide (97 and earlier) down to 1" wide. (This answers an early post in this thread about chain differences.)
Ah fantastic :D
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year or try it out for $5 a month.

Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





That output shaft play is caused by an ovalling of the bearing support in the case rear half. Omega Machine here in Sacramento offers a replacement rear case with that sleeved. A new bearing alone is not likely to solve it.

Right on! Now I know where to go if I ever have that problem.

Thanks!
 






Back
Top