I GIVE UP

[Stephen]

Can't help you with the wiring problems but I can offer some insight into the "FPOS" dilemma. The vast majority of the members on this board have had great luck with their Explorers, I've had mine for 130,000 miles now, and I will say that it has never let a member of the family down. I am however afraid that the truck is nearing the end of its natural life. I've learned, over three Explorers and 130,000 miles on this one is that yes, the Explorer is a great truck, and yes the hard mechanicals (save the transmission) are built to last, but there are lots of little things that really add up along the way, and they've totalled nearly $4000 in the past 9 months for me. Would I buy another Explorer? Sure, no question about it, but would I just go buy one without seeing what else the industry has to offer, no I wouldn't. The Explorer would have to win out all on its own. This means that yes, the Explorer is a great truck, but it hasn't been so great and trouble free that I wouldn't shop around.

Another thing I've learned is you have to keep on top of the issues that arise so they don't start to drown you, I'm putting mine in after Christmas for the brake issue you spoke of, a burned out light in the high series console, a bad rattle in the front end somewhere that ISN'T ball joints, and new tires. If any of that comes back to be sizeable (4 figures) then I'm going to put it out to pasture and look around.

 

[Okrazie1]

Glad to hear you're making some progress. From looking at the schematic, it looks as if it has to be the RAP module. It's somewhat strange how that system is setup. If you activate a unlock switch on the door, that supplies the ground to the relay coil, and also grounds the unlock I/O lead on the RAP, to let the RAP know that the doors have been unlocked. If you use the keyfob, the RAP supplies the ground to the relay coil. Right now, with the RAP disconnected, the door unlock switches should still function. If there was a problem with a switch, the door locks would still be malfunctioning. As it is, all of the wiring is still in the circuit, so if it were a wiring issue, the locks would still be malfunctioning. Also, the reason the door locks are only malfunctioning when the ignition is off is because the remote entry system is only functional when the ignition is off. Just one other reason the believe it's a bad RAP module.

If you get a used RAP module, its should work as is, but you'd have to reprogram the remotes. There should be an explanation in your owner's manual on how to do that. If you have memory seats, you might have to straighten that out, too. Once again, this should be covered in your owner's manual. The only other thing in the RAP that can be programmed is how the alarm functions. It is set up differently for different countries. Unless you go to Japan or somewhere like that to get a RAP module, that shouldn't be an issue.

When you reconnect the wiring to the RAP module, your alarm may go off (if you have one) because the module will think that the vehicle is being tampered with.

 

[dondiesel444]

cancel my previous post...

the doors are STILL unlocking by themselves.

WTH do I do now??

 

[Robert]

Did you remove the connector from all three power switches?

 

[dondiesel444]

I have some time to work on it today, I have the RAP disconected, and today I will disconect the drivers and pass. door switches, the rear switch is already disconnected. With everything disconnected, if it still turns the lights on and unlockes the doors, I guess there has to be a short somewhere. I am really frustrated with this, yesterday my wife went outside and the battery was dead due to the doors unlocking all of Sunday. I will try disconnecting all the doors switches and see what happens, cross your fingers for me...