i got 2 questions...need answer asap....

[leefhead]

what is this and how much does it cost....it blew up on me today....i think it might be the thermostat... its near the passenger side windshild...truck has a hard time to start...but it does...temp guage doesnt work anymore...i plugged off both ends with some duct tape and hose clamps so i can move...though its probally not the best idea right now... thanks for your quick replys

 

[Masterd]

Could it be the crossover thing for the heater core?

 

[IZwack]

Turn on the flash Or get more lighting up there

 

[smtcapecod]

yeah, heater valve/crossover. Not too costly rockauto.com or local store, and 5/8 (I think) hose.

 

[leefhead]

if i were to just bypass it, which hose would i connect to which? heres a quick paint pic of it...

i was thinking hose a to hose d and hose b to hose c.....connect those with a hose coupler and hose clamps...

 

[Maniak]

Its called a heater control bypass valve. Early Explorers didn't have it.. The hoses from the engine (intake and pump) went directly to the heater core.

The heater control valve is a piece that doesn't let water into the heater when your on max a/c (I believe its only the max a/c setting that blocks the water from the heater).

This means you have two choices..

Option A : take the hoses from the engine and connect them to each other. This means you won't have head but you need less parts

Option B: put 5/8 couplers where the heater control valve was to connect hoses A to C and B to D. This will give you heat but not give you the best a/c performance.

The best option of course is to get a new heater control valve.. its a $20 part if I remember correctly (autozone/checker/kragens does carry it).


btw.. I couldn't tell from your pics but your drawing does look like the heater control valve... here is a pic of it just to make sure we are all talking about the same thing.

EDIT: I checked autozone.com and they sell the part for $18.99.. p/n 5954
~Mark

 

[leefhead]

that looks pretty close to it...my ac doesnt work right now and its winter anyways,...so for the time being ill just use the couplers and get the part when ever i can get around to it. (Y) thanks.


::EDIT:: well, i set it all up, hooked up a to c and b to d, but it appears my temp guage is still not working and i still have no heat...ill have to test it on my way to work today... ill let you guys know the results... i forgot to plug up the vacuum hose...should probally do that before i go to work....what is the vacuum hose for anyways?

 

[fordnut71]

you wont get heat if you conect C an D hose as you are bypassing the heater core.
the vacuum hose is to let heat into the heater core or close the valve off

 

[leefhead]

well, my trip to work was an interesting one....temp guage didnt work, no hot air...drive it for a bit, out of no where, my temp guage fly's almost up to the H and i get hot air ,takes about 10 seconds to go from nothing to almost h, shortly after it goes back down to almost nothing again...then to normal, then hot, then normal, then a little warm, then hot, normal, ect, kept doing that...now its back down to where is usually is...i get hot air, and cold air, but i can feel some drag now when i let off the gas....like theres some old plastic that got into the water pump or smth...idk..its weird. any idea's? should i just put a screw in the vacuum hose?

 

[Maniak]

If you connect C & D (the two hoses that go to the motor) then you should not be getting heat. To get heat you need to get both hoses from the motor into the heater core.

As for the vacuum line, I would plug it as It will create a vacuum leak (not a big one, but still a vacuum leak).

~Mark

 

[leefhead]

i didnt connect c to d, i connected a to c and b to d, as i said here :

that looks pretty close to it...my ac doesnt work right now and its winter anyways,...so for the time being ill just use the couplers and get the part when ever i can get around to it. (Y) thanks.


::EDIT:: well, i set it all up, hooked up a to c and b to d, but it appears my temp guage is still not working and i still have no heat...ill have to test it on my way to work today... ill let you guys know the results... i forgot to plug up the vacuum hose...should probally do that before i go to work....what is the vacuum hose for anyways?

 

[Maniak]

i didnt connect c to d, i connected a to c and b to d, as i said here :

My bad.. I was looking at Fordnut71's reponse about c to d and got confused with your message..

I must need more coffee..

As for the fluctuation.. That could be air in the system, or pressure leaks (cooling system hose leak or could be head issues.. but unless you overheated the motor recently the fluctuation from head issues wouldn't just start with the blown valve).

Another posibility is a bad thermostat (sticking)..

~Mark

 

[leefhead]

i was thinking it could be air in the cooling system as well as i didnt have time to let it run for awhile to get most of the air out...as far as i know there are no other cooling system leaks, the only overheating ive done was when it blew i drove maybe 3 km to get back home, and it was just getting so hot i was worried when i got there...so it wasnt hot for long...more steam than anything.where is the thermostat located and how can i test it? im going to keep running it to see if its just air going through the system...i wonder what the drag is from...is it possible for some plastic i couldnt get out could get to the water pump? or is there somewhere else it would get stuck first?

 

[fordnut71]

i thought you had by passed the heater core.(rough day sholving snow lol )the temp prob shot up because the thermostat opened up an let the water flow from the motor. did you fill the rad back up after you did the fix? you might have air in the cooling system an its burping it out.
the thermostat is on the motor in the where the upper rad hose connects. to test 1 put it in warn to close to boiling water an see if it opens. but for the $6 bux at crappy for 1 just buy a new 1. get a 195*. then refill the rad an burp the air out .

 

[leefhead]

yeah i had to refill it, it took about 4-5L of coolent...it was prettyy low.. didnt have a chance to burp it...now...lets make sure were talking about the same thing, lol. let it run for awhile with the cap off the rad?

 

[leefhead]

ok, theres still a big problem...since doing this,there is a LOT of drag in the front end. there is a humming noise coming from the front end...is it possible for a peice of plastic to go from that peice to the water pump?..