I have searched this site for 1.5 hrs and need tranny experts help...

[Ross-N-Chicago]

Here is scenario as best as I can describe..

Tranny has worked flawlessly for 200K+ miles with regular fluid/filter changes every 15-20K, dino ATF

I swapped in Amsoil's ATF and a remote filter about 3000 miles ago and have changed remote filter at 300, 1000 and 1500 miles to make sure any debris was caught. Performance during that time was SLIGHLTLY improved.

Approx one week ago I have some sluggish starts out of first (in OD) early morning but clears up when warm. As the week progresses I begin to feel the suggishness at 50mph when the OD kicks in and I have to give plenty of gas to get out of the "dead zone" at 1500-1800 rpms. When the rpms are up I'm fine.

Last Thursday the new cat converter goes on (sitting around for ages) and I attribute the poor tranny performance to fuel/exhaust issues (no CEL) and replace the following based on searching this site for hours: TPS, FPR, O2 sensor and swap alternators b/c of low voltage reading at MAF. Performance doesn't get any better.

On the way home tonight I noticed that the rpms would increase when I shifted from D to R. So I did it again to be sure and the rpms do go up. There is also a slight sound, like a metallic whine/howl when I come to a stop.

I pray to God that this is just a modulator issue, servos or possibly bad U Joints or else. Fluid level is perfect and still cherry red. Please respond to this with any help given the above...

Ross

The only code its thrown was 122 for low TPS voltage.

 

[Ross-N-Chicago]

Update:

No fluid in any of the vacuum lines at the octopus. Nor any signs of a leak at the modulator. Since the exhaust was just taken off and the bolts are fresh, would it still be a good idea to change the modulator out?

 

[Jason_25]

Have you changed the main tranny filter lately? If not, do so. While your at it, check the tranny valve body bolts for tightness. Making them finger-tight should do.

 

[Ross-N-Chicago]

Jason,

I changed the filter at the ATF swap about two months ago. Since then I have changed the remote filter 3 times. Do I still need to drop the pan and change the filter? Or is it more of a sidebar to get to the valve body bolts? Thanks.

PS If I drop the pan is there anything I can/should look for while its off?

 

[Opera House]

For a 91 w/200k

I'd sure change the O rings on the low/reverse servo when the pan is dropped. There is an improved double lip seal though Ford still sells just the big O ring. Hey, factory lasted 200K! This won't solve all your problems but it will save the reverse band and boost the pressure a little. Four bolts and a couple of bucks would be worth it.

 

[Ross-N-Chicago]

Opera,

I'll do that. SPX has their headquarters 30 mins from here so I'll go p/u their micro filter and o ring (does any major auto place carry the better o ring?). Also, when the pan is off which servo is the low/reverse from underneath?

Do my symptoms also qualify for a valve body gasket change?

 

[Naga Sadow]

It could be the torque converter.

 

[njsjfonline]

wow

I can't beleave you where able to get 200K. Great to here that. if it's the converter. when you drop the pan you will find lots of medal shavings,

 

[Opera House]

low/reverse servo

is located in the back in a section where the valve body isn't. Go to www.atcdg.com and click on tech. In the A4LD notes there is a good picture. SPX/Toledo gasket kit contains a seperate plastic bag with the 2 O rings, the larger having a double lip. This leads me to believe that someone might offer it as a seperate item. Transtec also has the double lip. Have'nt bothered finding it as a single item. The servo cover gasket usually doesn't crack and can be reused. Most buy the basic kit because they eventually end up doing the valve body, speed governor and whatever. Nice to hear one made it to 200K.

 

[Ross-N-Chicago]

Chris Tartik at SPX is overnighting a complete rebuild kit for me at no charge. I also turned him onto this site so I believe that's why he gave it to me.

Opera, you seem to be the guy to ask (no offense to any others, I truly appreciate the help): what else should I do while I have the pan off based on these symptoms? I am going to replace the vacuum modulator tonight so maybe you can respond AFTER I do that to be sure it isn't as simple a fix as that.

R

 

[Opera House]

Nothing else relly easy

The valve body can collect sediment over time and a simple wash without removing the spools isn't hard. The ATC site mentiond cleaning the filter on the valve. Valves do not come out without removing valve body. Don't remove valve body without a manual. There are these little parts that fall out. Like they say, you can't tell the players without a program. And don't tip a valve body over, some keepers will fall out. Manual at www.bulkpart.com is only $16 and the SPX filter is only $10. Several people have installed new filters and didn't use the right hardware & screw. The filter then drops down in a couple of K and have funny shifting problems. Easy to do because the screw is recessed out of sight. Just noticed no one commented on the TPS. Have you checked further into that?

 

[Ross-N-Chicago]

Yes, TPS was replaced a couple of days ago, no luck there.

 

[Ross-N-Chicago]

Here's update:

Got the X back after having new modulator and U Joints installed. Apparently the modulator has solved my immediate problems b/c there is no more sluggishness and the shifts are more firm than before. So that's the good news.

Now when I let off the gas or just before a complete stop I will feel a clunk, and its consistent. Sometimes it will happen while the car is remaining in motion but certainly on my way to a stop. I believe I've read of this somewhere on this site.

Now what gents?

 

[Jason_25]

Try lubing the driveshaft slip yoke.

 

[Diff Whack Daddy]

It may also be as simple as the tranny mount. Mine did this for years and I slowly replaced parts as I knew it wasn't the tranny since it was freshly rebuilt by the dealer because of this clunk. I eventually swapped the rubber tranny mount for a poly mount designed for manual tranny's and the clunk to a stop was gone.

 

[Ross-N-Chicago]

Diff Whack,

With the u-joints going in today I would have to suspect that Jason is right about the slip yokes. I've never dropped the driveshaft--is it something easy to do and/or require any special tools? I'm all for it if it isn't tough and I already have the grease (but don't know what to grease exactly). All in all, can someone walk me through this? I'm grateful that I have gotten this much good info.

 

[Jason_25]

I used lithium grease.

Just remove the 4 bolts on the flange (either the axle or TC side), pull the driveshaft away , then pull it apart. Rub grease on the splines on both sides. Also, if it's never been done before you will need a new clamp for the boot because the Ford one is not reusable. Make sure to line the driveshaft up like it was before so it stays balanced.

 

[Ross-N-Chicago]

Thanks Jason,

Can I snag a clamp at Autozone or Pepboys? And how long would this take to do at a moderate pace? TIA...

 

[Robert]

Yes, just use regular hose clamps. You'll need two different sizes if yours is like my '97. I think I used a 1 1/4" clamp and a 1 1/2" clamp. Offset the adjuster screws ont he two clamps by 180 degrees to keep everything balanced. figure on 1/2 hour from start to finish unless you have to run out in the middle to get the hose clamps.

 

[onelasttry]

i think it's awsome you sucessfully replaced the mod valve because i have heard horror stories about performance (or lack thereof) after such a replacement.