Injector replacement 1993 4x4

[benindavis]

Hi gang!

Im a newbie first off. Ive got a 93 Explorer 6 cyl 4x4 no1 cyl is missing. not the plug, not the wire, compression is good. I have narrowed it down to the injector. Here is my question. How involved is it to replace one and should I replace it or just try to see if it is clogged and repair it? Also.. any tips on the best way to get the spark plugs on the passenger side out? geeeeeze theres not much room in there!!!

Thanks!!!!

Ben

 

[MadExplorer93]

Is the CEL on (check engine light on) or did it come on at all?

Have you check the Coil pack for resistance cold and when hot?

Have you tried Seafoam in the gas tank half a can to 10 gallons or full can to 20 gallons, this will 9/10 clean the injectors, but you may have to do it twice?

Have you tested the injector for resistance?

What makes you 100% sure it is the injector gone bad?

You could have a vaccum leak.

Does the engine run rough idle and or surge at all?

Edit:

It is a bit of a job to change a injector as the plenum has to come off and the fuel rail, plus if you down that far then you may as well change the O-rings on ALL the injectors. I just did this job about a week ago and you need the plenum and fuel rail gasket, plus the o-rings for the injector. If in fact it is a bad injector, then of course you will need a new one of those too.

I also did the driverside valve cover gasket, if yours is leaking or very very old, then change it as you need to remove the plenum if you had to do so in the future.

This job can take 8-12 hours to do properly, as cleaning is a MUST.

Before you do all of this, try SEAFOAM in the tank like i mentioned and also SEAFOAM in the intake through the cruise control hose, if you have cruise control and if not then get a hose that can hook to the vaccum TREE that you can use in the SEAFOAM can to let it suck up at least half a can.

 

[Willard]

Test your injectors first, as MadExplorer said, with a resistance meter. If you have a manual for it you can find the correct resistance reading in there.

As far as actually doing it, like was also said, the plenum and fuel rail must come off. You will need upper intake gaskets, and the gaskets for anything that you take off the plenum. If you have EGR, make sure and soak the nut attaching that tube with penetrating oil for a few days before hand. If you have a manual for it, you should be able to figure the rest out.

 

[MadExplorer93]

I forgot to answer the spark plug question you had:

The first two on the passenger side it is best to take the WHOLE AIR BOX out, this way there is plenty of room to use an extention on the first two plugs.

Now as for the back plug what i do is use a 1/2 Power Bar with a 5/8 spark plug socket and i put it down right beside the HVAC box if you have air condtioning that is, then you can loosen the plug if you can get the socket on, which you may have to move the power bar closer to the firewall or closer to the front of engine, but eventually you will get it loose. After loosening it you can try and loosen it out more with your fingers as you can get your hand down there, but if not go from within the Fender Wall area and get a ratchet on in it and take it out, again trying with fingers too when you get it out so far.

Now basically the install procedure is in reverse.

 

[benindavis]

the No1 cyl is not firing.I tried switchin wires around still the No1 cyl not firing. I used a vacuum gage and if I pull the plug wire on the No1 cyl there is no change in vacuum. Any other plug wire I pull and the vacuum gage really jumps. The compression is fine in all cyls. I get spark to the cyl (ouch) The engine doesnt run REALLY rough at idle but you can see/hear that it is missing. This is more noticeable at higher RPM. The check engine light is on.I have checked for vacuum leaks. None. SEAFOAM? never hurd o tha un. Ill check into it. I did put some injector cleaner into the tank and ran it for several hours to no avail. This No1 cyl misfire problem is new. It was running fine, but it sat for several weeks and when I fired it up it was there. I had just replaced the thermostat in in about a week before I had it sitting. It was running good up until then except for a slight over heating problem.
This has left me thinking that it is an injector issue.I figure if a valve was gone and it was misfiring because of that the compression wouldnt be good....just as a side note Damn theres a lot of vacuum hoses!

Thanks for your help and input!

Ben

 

[benindavis]

Update

Well I pulled the fuel rail.. and low and behold the elec. was unplugged on that cylinder...so.. I cleaned the connection. plugged it back in and whammo.. all 6 firing...!! CEL is still on tho.. hmmmmmmmmmmm

 

[fixxxer]

You need to disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes to clear the codes. This will reset the computer to it's defaults. It can take up to 100 mi of driving for the computer to relearn the correct settings for your truck. If you don't disconnect the battery to clear the codes, the computer will automatically clear the codes for you after like 40 startup cycles.

 

[nitro71]

You can take it to Schucks and they can pull and clear the codes with the reader. I'd do that. See what codes are there.

 

[benindavis]

injector update!

I pulled the fuel rail. took about 20 minutes.. LO AND BEHOLD ! I discovered that the electrical plug to the injector was disconnected and slightly corroded! so .. a lil bit of baking soda and water and a toothbrush.. then some WD40 to remove the water. bingo! plugged it in and all 6 are firing! The thing that puzzled me is how the d*** thing got unplugged in the first place!! After I plugged it in I couldnt unplug it with out undoing the little clip! so....... WTF? anyway all is well!!

Thanks large EVERYONE!